what year?

Most of the interior was trashed, I was going to take the XLT door panel inserts but they had a lot of water damage.

I want to say the XLT had a green interior. Not sure about the others.I don't usually give much attention to the supercabs.

What are some of the Super-Cab specific parts (besides exterior trim pieces) people are looking for? There are 4 in my pick n pull and one was a Ranger XLT.

It really isn't that bad of a job. A transmission jack makes it much easier. Drop the trans, pull the flexplate and replace the seal.

You can also just compare the width of the core. Most parts stores give dimensions of all the radiators.

I think they look good on the A-pillar, I've also seen them done in those plastic headliners with the speakers and mount for a CB or stereo.I like to keep my trans temp up high...but its on my 96 w/ an E4OD, so I'm a little more concerned with its temp than I am with my C4.

Yeah, I think on 73-79 the "super cooling" package had a 3 core.

No, the Heavy Duty Cooling option for 87-96 (at least when we are talking about 300/302/351...not sure about the diesels and 460s) was just a 2 core radiator.The 4-core is an aftermarket unit (with brass tanks at that) made by Proliance and goes by the moniker "heatbuster extreme".I think...

They flow better than the stock log manifold, but I doubt you'd notice anything in your assmeter w/o buying a new intake and getting a bigger carb on it.I don't think the factory exhaust manifold works with the performance intakes, so if you plan on making that swap in the future, go ahead and...

From my reading at fordsix.com, there really isn't a better head to run. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the same as what you have.Only way to liven it up is to get a good valve job done and do some port and polish.

I believe the physical latch is the same between all the 92-96.

The Ford 2G alts are known to catch fire....swap to a internally regulated 3G alternator and you'll be much happier.Also take the opprotunity to upgrade your charge and ground cables to 4 or 2 gauge.

Nice time to upgrade to a big 4 core radiator.

I really like the Ford 9mm wires.In a stock compression 300/302/351, regular old motorcraft/autolite copper plugs work perfectly.

I'm not 100% if the gears and carriers are the same. I'd imagine they are, but don't take my word for it.

Forgot I had this in my bookmarks too:http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/explorer-rear-disk-brakes.pdf

The disc parts swap over.Over at fullsizebronco, there is a write up.

You count the blinks of the CEL.So 23 would be:blink/pause/blink/pause/pause/pause/blink/pause/blink/pause/blink

Either find the swtich on the passenger kick panel or unplug the fuel pump relay and start the truck and let it die.Courtesy of Steve83:Read these instructions: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/497461

Also, do you have any codes?

Your TPS is adjustable. Take a look at any repair manual and break out your multimeter. There are resistance specs that it should match up too.And to be honest, most of the parts store TPS units are ****. I've gotten bad ones out of the box a few times.If you really have a TPS problem, I'd...

Pull the codes.Dirty IAC or bad TPS.

I had a yellow striped modulator (C4) and mine was adjustable.I'd also try and adjust the bands (if you haven't already done so).

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with the way it came out.

My old 92 XLT:

Some pics of my 96 XLT:

I've been told by a bunch of old-timer trans guys that the C6 is one of the easiest transmissions to rebuild.

This is why I had to rebuild my C4 (everything else actually looked fine, but I had it open so I went ahead and did the rebuild):Once I removed the front pump bolts, I literally got to this point in 3-4 minutes...I think the most important part is keeping everything in order:

Because I don't have a Ford Shop Manual.I needed a manual, the parts store had it in stock, and it worked.