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Stalls while driving and then hard crank no start

1995 f150 5.8L

Twice today my truck shut off while driving at ~40mph within 20 mins of driving (to then from work). It then had a strong crank no start for 10-15 mins until it finally started. No bucking or indications of impending stall. The second stall I gave it more gas and it came back to life and then stalled again seconds later (which I thought was really odd). With the strong crank no start I swapped fuel tanks and tried jumping from the fender solenoid with no joy.

KOEO: 111, CM: 211
KOER: 111

I have had 211 for over 8 years and have never been able to track it down, but I have replaced the distributor 3 times. I have had off and on random stalls at a full stop, but never enough to make me park it. I have a LED light to test PIP signal if I can catch it, but it seems to be heat/time driven. I just let it idle in the driveway and it never died. So I'm thinking TFI? Any better ideas or troubleshooting?

I'm parking it now because being stuck in the road really sucks.
 

heavydoc

Instigator
Staff member
1,994
68
WNC
I had one that had a bad coolant temp sensor, the one for the computer not the gauge that did the same thing. Maybe @Dustybumpers will be byvsoon. He is pretty good with these trucks
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
TFI modules have had a history of issues. Yours actually should be mounted on the fender instead of the distributor. I encountered a gentleman years ago that carried spares as they were notorious for failure but he happened to not have his spare with him so required assitance that day. I had an old Duraspark II box play that game with me, run fine for a ewhile, shut down and take about a 10-15minute nap and hit the road again.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Tfi on the fender still acts up, but not as frequent as the distributer mount.
I agree there is the problem. You will know for sure when you pull it, the die electric grease on the back will be caked up and cracked from the heat. Make sure to replace with the same color unit, gray or black. They are NOT interchangeable

The coolant temp switch is like the choke on a carbureted engine, it will make for hard starts on a cold engine, or flooded starts on a warm engine.

I would also test the fuel pressure regulator while looking at this issue. Could be too much pressure, or could be leaking through. When you pull the vacuum line off look for gas in the line
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
If I remember right the "111" is just a check sum signal, indicating connection has been made, so the only error to deal with is the 211 error, and I don't know what that is.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
111 means computer checks out. 211 is not a code to worry with on her truck as she don't have a knock sensor

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fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
111 means computer checks out. 211 is not a code to worry with on her truck as she don't have a knock sensor

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Thank you for schooling me. :D
 
Fuel pressure regulator tested good. I have a genisys, so I can view the ECT sensor temp and voltage. I didn’t see anything erratic, but my truck isn’t stalling or having issues on the driveway. Should I test this sensor further?

Dustybumpers, I thought 211 was for an issue with the PIP? If it’s something I can ignore that would be great news, I’ve been chasing my tail with that code.

Just waiting on the TFI from rock auto.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
On your truck easy enough to see look where the plug in spout for check your timing is for cracked or melted/ torn wires and put some liquid tape on it.
Usually that code comes with knock sensor being out of range causing the code. While changing the tfi look at the spout wires to be sure tho. Btw, hope you have the tool for taking the modual out it's the same tool as the distributor one. You can pick them up at any parts store if you dont.

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Replaced the ICM with a motorcraft one straight from the dealership. Lasted 2 trips and died on the third trip, same symptoms: died out of no where about 10 mins in to drive and then had strong crank no start.

What is worth going after next?
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
You already did the distributer if I remember correctly

The other end of the ice is in the distributer. Do you still have the old one?
What was it doing to cause replacment of that?

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I replaced the distributor in 2017 when I was chasing code 211 and a random stall when coming to a stop. I don’t have the old one, but I think it might be worth replacing?
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
It can be taken apart, and that modual replaced
You take the gear off the bottom, and disassemble bottom to top. The module is in there like a set of points. You can see it under the rotor, but everything has to come from the bottom to get to it.

Whichever is cheaper, test some wires first, those are the 3 problems in these years with ignition shut down.

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Of course I get all my testing tools and a helper in my truck, drive around, and truck drives perfectly fine.

I’m sure it will stall on me tomorrow on my way to work.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Maybe it's decided to behave..... we can only hope

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I finally had a helper and tools when it stalled. I got no spark at the distributor cap, and no PIP signal at the ICM. So I’m going for a new distributor (because I don’t have the patience or the press to change out the PIP) unless anyone has any other ideas?
 
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dustybumpers

don't play well w others
That would be my next move. I only suggested the module because I thought the distributer was new.
I usually replace the coil at the same time only because it's the same age, and will be soon to follow.


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Is there a way to definitively tell if I have roller cams from the front of the block? Timing chain, thrust plate or anything? I have recent pictures of that area and could skip pulling the valve cover if so.
 
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