Newcomer from Germany

[Fellro]

You can check the valve for function by disconnecting the fuel lines and blowing air through it to see if the air passes through. You can also make bypass hookups as well if you don't need to use both tanks. The 6-port valves for direct replacement aren't easy to find these days.

As to which is best, both have good and bad. 7.3L are prone to cavitation through the cylinder wall due to the larger bore. The valves were updated to try to reduce the amount of oil slipping past the stem, which led to more common valve failures. The 6.9 had head gasket failure issues which led to the larger bolts on the 7.3. The 7.3 is largely not very effective for rebuilding because of the bore, it has to be sleeved instead ofbored out.

 

[mvc]

One Fuel Tank works. Do I have to buy a 6 port valve to me.

Then I'd better rebuild the 6.9l.

Where your buys their parts?



Thank you for your help Fellro. But I still have many more questions.

 

[Fellro]

You must use a 6 port, as you have to retain the return lines. The front 2 lines go to/from the motor, then the back side 4 go to the respective tanks.

You can use the universal 6 port valves, but you have to wire the plug and change the fuel line ends.

Ebay can be good, but the overseas angle makes it harder. It depends what I need as to where I look to get it from.

 

[mvc]

I want to make the car original. I'll try to get the 6 port valve.

I have another Question. The Front Axle leaks. Do I have to build it completely apart?

 

[Fellro]

Mostly depends where it is leaking from. I believe all the seals are external, so you can service them from the outside. Only one that requires removal of a sort is if it is leaking around the housing to axle cover.

 

[mvc]

Hello Guys,

I had much working and no time for Forum.

So it looks like I have to dismantle the whole axle cover.


Can you help me,i want new Alternator and new Set Steering Parts.
At Rock Auto there are many different parts. I have a 4WD and 22mm threads.

What alternator would be best?

 

[Fellro]

I would validate the leak source before taking anything apart. What color is the oil it is dripping, and where in relation to the axle is the dripping? That will help locate the leak. If the oil is dark black, it is motor oil.

On the alternator, not sure what you mean by best, if brand or output. There are upgrade options, but for just hook up and go, just replace with the 45 amp original style.

Steering parts: there are the long and short tie rods. I highly recommend replacing the adjuster sleeves at the same time you do the tie rods. For the cost of them, it isn't worth it to try to save them. Then there is the safety...I had one split and break, luckily it happened when the truck was moving slowly off road.

 

[mvc]

Hello Fellro,

So the alternator with a 70 amp enough?

I replace the complete steering components!

Ok, I'll check the exact leak. Maybe it's engine oil. I know more tomorrow.

 

[mvc]

Hello Fellow. I have checked the Öl leak. Is Öl from the Axle. I must the Axle cover disassemble. Is there a instructions?

 

[mvc]

Fits this Set Steering http://www.ebay.de/itm/290961822565?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 on my Ford?

 

[Fellro]

Next question on the leak is where on the axle it is leaking. Is it leaking where the drive shaft from the transmission/transfer case is, on the side where the shafts go to the wheels, or at the housing to suspension member is.

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Remove the front wheels.

3. Remove the calipers.

4. Remove the hub/rotor assemblies.

5. Remove the nuts retaining the spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the spindle with a plastic mallet to remove it from the knuckle.

6. Remove the splash shield.

7. On the left side, pull the shaft from the carrier, through the knuckle.

8. On the right side, remove and discard the keystone clamp from the shaft and joint assembly and the stub shaft. Slide the rubber boot onto the shaft and pull the shaft and joint assembly from the splines of the stub shaft.

9. Place the spindle in a soft-jawed vise clamped on the second step of the spindle.

10. Using a slidehammer and bearing puller, remove the needle bearing from the spindle.

11. Inspect all parts. If the spindle is excessively corroded or pitted it must be replaced. If the U-joints are excessively loose or don't move freely, they must be replaced. If any shaft is bent, it must be replaced.

12. Clean all dirt and grease from the spindle bearing bore. The bore must be free of nicks and burrs.



To install:

1. Insert a new spindle bearing in its bore with the printing facing outward. Drive it into place with drive T80T-4000-S for F-150 and Bronco and F-250, or T80T-4000-R for the F-350, or their equivalents. Install a new bearing seal with the lip facing away from the bearing.

2. Pack the bearing and hub seal with grease. Install the hub seal with a driver.

3. Place the thrust washer on the axle shaft.

4. Place a new slender on the axle shaft.

5. Install the rubber V-seal on the slinger. The seal lip should face the spindle.

6. Install the plastic spacer on the axle shaft. The chamfered side of the spacer should be inboard against the axle shaft.

7. Pack the thrust face of the seal in the spindle bore and the V-seal on the axle shaft with heavy duty, high temperature, waterproof wheel bearing grease.

8. On the right side, install the rubber boot and new keystone clamps on the stub shaft and slip yoke. The splines permit only one way of meshing so you'll have to properly align the missing spline in the slip yoke with the gapless male spline on the shaft. Slide the right shaft and joint assembly into the slip yoke, making sure that the splines are fully engaged. Slide the boot over the assembly and crimp the keystone clamp.

9. On the left side, slide the shaft and joint assembly through the knuckle and engage the splines in the carrier.

10. Install the splash shield and spindle on the knuckle. Tighten the spindle nuts to 60 ft. lbs.

11. Install the rotor on the spindle. Install the outer wheel bearing into the cup. Make sure that the grease seal lip totally encircles the spindle.

12. Install the wheel bearing, locknut, thrust bearing, snapring and locking hubs.

13. Install the caliper.


I go those images and instructions from www.autozone.com. You have to register, but it is free, the once you log in, you enter the vehicle info. Next, you go on the left side of the screen and click the vehicle repair manuals, and then the appropriate section. Another option you have is to go to www.alldata.com and get a paid subscription to the manual there. There also is info right here on the site that DUncan spent a lot of time scanning and putting up on the site in each truck category for use as well. http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32920


Steering components: There are more parts there than you need, but it would seem to be the right ones beyond that. There really isn't a difference between the diesels and gas trucks for steering linkage.

Alternator: that one should be fine. These trucks don't need a lot of electrical power to run. There is only one wire necessary to make them run, and of course the starter. I have driven pretty fair distances with no alternator belt a couple of times. once was due to the alternator failing and seizing, the other because I tossed the belt.

 

[mvc]

I think at the housing to suspension member. The seal the shafts go to the wheels is not leaking.

 

[mvc]

Hello Guys,

I can rebuild the valve to a different valve? (Chevy, Dodge) The do have something also. Complete with connector?

 

[Fellro]

You can find universal 6-port valves new that come with the pigtail connector. You just have the take off the factory ends and use rubber or such hose to connect them. I have taken the ends off and just slid the hose over the plastic lines with much success. Of course, you still have to hose clamp them. I can't answer on the Dodge, but Chevy uses a valve very similar to the universal valves.The Dodge I used to get the Cummins from just had a larger tank.

 

[mvc]

Passt dieses Ventil? Ist komplett mit Ventil und Kabelbaum
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Pollak-42-30...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337e22cbe0

 

[Fellro]

Yes that is the valveyou would be able to change out to.

Does this valve? Complete with valve and harness

 

[mvc]

Thank you Fellro for your help.

 

[mvc]

Can you help me? What´s this for part?

 

[Fellro]

That is for an auxiliary overdrive. It appears someone added a Gear Vendors overdrive to the truck. It will be attached to the back of the transmission.

 

[mvc]

This only works on 2WD and not 4WD?