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My Johnny Cash Truck

Here are the total specs:

Specifications:
72 Ford F-100 LWB (131") 2WD
Engine 5.9 litre 360 Ci. 215 stock hp. (Until I have a chance to test it)
Motorcraft 2150 2v carb.
Borg Warner T18 transmission
18.5 gal. In cab fuel tank (I intend to add two 25 gallon side tanks as well)
Cab is from 1968 camper special
Ignition system: GM HEI
Wheel size 15"x10.5 5x5.5 bolt pattern
BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A Tires
31 X 10.5 R15
Rear end gear ratio 3.25
MBM Brake booster and master cylinder
Fuse block and wires custom replaced with a modern ATC blade style fuse system.


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Last edited:
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She climbed up there herself. She gets so interested. I had to stick a hand under her but because the cameraperson distracted her and she started to climb down.

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I found the exact 8" booster / master cylinder combo I purchased from the same seller. Here is the ebay link.

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=321975301836&alt=web


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If you have drum / drum, you will not use the combination valve included in this purchase. You will use the existing metering valve bolted on the inside of the frame under the drivers door. This is primarily for Disc / Drum or Disc / Disc. It is a disc / disc master (both resivoirs large) but that just means more fluid capacity.

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So the next job will be replacing the steering gear box. I've had a slow PS fluid leak for years and assumed it was the high pressure line. Nope... it is the box. I understand that once I determine which box I have, (there are twp PS boxes. Bendix on earlier year models and Saginaw for the rest.) I will have the choice of buying the two rebuild kits it takes to rebuild the box, or just buying a reman. box. If I opted to rebuild, I would get both kits anyway because, with my luck, the other seals would fail in 6 mos if I didnt! From what I have read, buying a reman is better because my box may have wear that would cause premature failure. This argument apparently is as heated as "revolver vs semi-automatic pistols, which is better?". I guess when I have the dough to buy the box, I will pull the box, inspect it, and make a call. The difference can range from $30 to $400 (includes core charge, boxes can be purchased as low as $150 if you aren't a poor sap with a bendix)

After stating all this, I might want to research if there is a aftermatket box that makes it actually possible to suspension lift the truck a little... yeah, I know I am dreaming...[emoji6]

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Fyi, I just changed my tapatalk username. This post is a test to see if it did anything to my profile etc.

I am an artist that works in traditional media and also makes custom items from almost all materials. what can I make for YOU?


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Apparently not. Too bad, I prefer to be known as SleepyDragonfly. Hey DX! Can you do anything about that?

I am an artist that works in traditional media and also makes custom items from almost all materials. what can I make for YOU?


1926ce18829a502136a8c71a05f6bdf2.jpg
 
I am posting this for the image url to change my signature photo...


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I am an artist that works in traditional media and also makes custom items from almost all materials. what can I make for YOU?


1926ce18829a502136a8c71a05f6bdf2.jpg
 
I got tired of my old crappy jury rigged throttle linkage, so I replaced this:

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With THIS!


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Works smooth as silk.

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New steering gearbox, old Pittman arm, I rebuilt the rag joint, found a 1960s era extinguisher for the bay still charged!, and found the vacuum line I wanted.

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