360 upgrades 76 f150

[Workin' Rig]

And you cleaned it completely removing all the varnish from inside the float bowl etc?
A rebuild to me is everything....gaskets, linkage(s), setting float, cleaning...etc.

I Didnt soak it no...but i ran a ton of gumout through it and sprayed it with compressed air...of course i did gaskets but the linkage and stuff was fine...

 

[DNFXDLI]

I'm not trying to pick at you Workin'....just wanting everything to be on a level playing field.
Someone tells somebody that it takes "x" to do something and someone else says it takes "y".....it makes it hard to establish a baseline to what must be done.

If, for example, you run gumout through it and then shoot compressed air...it might lift a real light layer of varnish, but then the air will evaporate the cleaner possibly leaving it in worse shape as it will blow sludge along and maybe have it collect in a low spot or a place where the air creates an eddy.

 

[Workin' Rig]

I'm not trying to pick at you Workin'....just wanting everything to be on a level playing field.
Someone tells somebody that it takes "x" to do something and someone else says it takes "y".....it makes it hard to establish a baseline to what must be done.

If, for example, you run gumout through it and then shoot compressed air...it might lift a real light layer of varnish, but then the air will evaporate the cleaner possibly leaving it in worse shape as it will blow sludge along and maybe have it collect in a low spot or a place where the air creates an eddy.

I Know you wernt pickin...really the carb wasnt bad inside...as far as varnish...when i bought it someone didnt have a fuel filter on it...so there was more just general crap in it then anything....

The power valve was completly blown out...that was my biggest issue im sure...and the diapram on the acclerator pump was also tore...and it was leaking...

Nonetheless though on the OPs truck it sure wouldnt hurt

 

[tjcustomranger]

I have stock gearing in my axles. What would be the best choice if I gear it down? Something good on highways and that will help my acceleration and power. How much would something like that cost

 

[DNFXDLI]

I have stock gearing in my axles. What would be the best choice if I gear it down? Something good on highways and that will help my acceleration and power. How much would something like that cost

You want higher gears...not lower gears. You can't have something that will both help with acceleration and mileage.
Gear swap here is about 2-2.5K all in.
What gears do you have?

 

[tjcustomranger]

I think it's either 3.07 or 3.50?? I'm not sure but its stock

 

[DNFXDLI]

I think it's either 3.07 or 3.50?? I'm not sure but its stock

What does the door tag say?...there should be an axle code.
If you have either of those gears and a typical 30'' tire, your revs should be fairly low at highway speed....and you shouldn't have the lack of top speed you have referred to...eg...

3.07's w/30'' tire...2235 rpm at 65 mph.

3.5's w/30'' tire...2548 at 65 mph.

Both good rpm's for a 360.

If you drop that to 4.10's...

~3000 rpm.

Crunch your numbers....go to the bottom calculator

http://www.csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html

 

[Workin' Rig]

Hes got 35s though....

The eaisest and cheapest way is to just swap the whole axle...

 

[DNFXDLI]

Hes got 35s though....

The eaisest and cheapest way is to just swap the whole axle...

I missed that (the 35's)...it is if you can find both axles in good condition.

 

[tjcustomranger]

I will be ditching them at for 33's so I can get some of my acceleration and mileage back. The way it is now its runnin probably about 3500 rpm when the speedometer is at 50. The axles are stock I'm not sure what gears are in them I just no they are stock I won't know until I can see my truck.

 

[primetime]

I will be ditching them at for 33's so I can get some of my acceleration and mileage back. The way it is now its runnin probably about 3500 rpm when the speedometer is at 50. The axles are stock I'm not sure what gears are in them I just no they are stock I won't know until I can see my truck.

There is a whole lot going on here. IF you have stock gears (ie, 3.50s), and you have 35s, there is NO WAY you are turning 3500 rpm at 50 mph. Not in top gear at least. You need to verify your gear ratio, and your speedometer accuracy. Get a buddy to drive his ride around (preferably stock), have him get to 60 mph and hold, while you follow behind, and than you`ll know how far off your speedo is. You can also accomplish the same thing by your self with interstate mile markers and a stop watch. 60 mph equals 60 seconds between mile markers.

 

[Workin' Rig]

Stupid question....but if you are infact turning 3500 rpms at 50 (which i doubt) you trans is shifting right? Or the selector is right? Like it may read "D" when its really in "2"....

I really think its a speedo inaccuracy...

 

[tjcustomranger]

It was shifting it wouldn't down shift hardly ever though. It was running at high rpms and the speedo was at 50 and never went higher. It's possible that we were really going about 65 though. Something is wrong somewhere I just don't know what it is

 

[Beach66Bum]

The rpm's would be close if you were going 80 mph.

 

[tjcustomranger]

We had the petal to the floor all the way home. Truck was running pretty high and probably would have blown up if we had to go farther. Going down hill with it pinned the speedo hit about 53. It will hardly pull hills. It won't even climb over an 8 inch log. I had to lock it in low and get a rolling start. It runs on all 8 no knocks or anything but it was sputtering after awhile and I was crawling through the field. It almost seemed like it wasn't shifting up any higher than the 3rd gear the whole way home and the gas petal is super easy to push. It sounded good we put 40 dollars of fresh gas in it. The acceleration is equivalent to putting 35s on a four banger jeep that's totally stock. The gearing in it is all stock. The engine is stock as well as the tranny. It's full time with a heavy front end. Complete tune up done. But it runs way too high, won't drive away like automatics are suppose to when you shift. Won't do over 55 at all according to the speedo.

 

[Workin' Rig]

I really think your speedo is way off...or your tranny is slipping hardcore....

 

[tjcustomranger]

the kickdown seems to be hooked up so idk why it didn't ever want to down shift driving it home 2 weeks ago.

going toi check plugs and maybe doa quantity test.

there isn't even a frickin fuel filter on it so i'm getting one tomorrow.

what is the timing suppose to be set at? i would like to check that too

plugs are suppose to be at .17?? right

 

[DNFXDLI]

I don't have the book handy right now...I will look later or tomorrow....but I'm pretty sure it is .035....if you are at .17 it's not surprising you have issues.

What do the plugs look like?

Here is a link to a picture here that Doug posted....look at page 23-01-13

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30020

I'm thinking the static timing (vac disconnected) is 6-8 deg.

 

[tjcustomranger]

I think I was thinking of points gap

 

[Workin' Rig]

the kickdown seems to be hooked up so idk why it didn't ever want to down shift driving it home 2 weeks ago.

going toi check plugs and maybe doa quantity test.

there isn't even a frickin fuel filter on it so i'm getting one tomorrow.

what is the timing suppose to be set at? i would like to check that too

plugs are suppose to be at .17?? right

If the rod is hooked up then your prolly already revving to much for a downshift...if it downshifted at the revs your describing youd have rods scattered into the next county.