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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #1  
Old 06-02-2021, 06:45 PM
fordgirl fordgirl is offline
 
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Stalls while driving and then hard crank no start

1995 f150 5.8L

Twice today my truck shut off while driving at ~40mph within 20 mins of driving (to then from work). It then had a strong crank no start for 10-15 mins until it finally started. No bucking or indications of impending stall. The second stall I gave it more gas and it came back to life and then stalled again seconds later (which I thought was really odd). With the strong crank no start I swapped fuel tanks and tried jumping from the fender solenoid with no joy.

KOEO: 111, CM: 211
KOER: 111

I have had 211 for over 8 years and have never been able to track it down, but I have replaced the distributor 3 times. I have had off and on random stalls at a full stop, but never enough to make me park it. I have a LED light to test PIP signal if I can catch it, but it seems to be heat/time driven. I just let it idle in the driveway and it never died. So I'm thinking TFI? Any better ideas or troubleshooting?

I'm parking it now because being stuck in the road really sucks.
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Old 06-02-2021, 08:16 PM
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I had one that had a bad coolant temp sensor, the one for the computer not the gauge that did the same thing. Maybe @Dustybumpers will be byvsoon. He is pretty good with these trucks
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Old 06-02-2021, 10:41 PM
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TFI modules have had a history of issues. Yours actually should be mounted on the fender instead of the distributor. I encountered a gentleman years ago that carried spares as they were notorious for failure but he happened to not have his spare with him so required assitance that day. I had an old Duraspark II box play that game with me, run fine for a ewhile, shut down and take about a 10-15minute nap and hit the road again.
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Old 06-03-2021, 07:31 AM
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Tfi on the fender still acts up, but not as frequent as the distributer mount.
I agree there is the problem. You will know for sure when you pull it, the die electric grease on the back will be caked up and cracked from the heat. Make sure to replace with the same color unit, gray or black. They are NOT interchangeable

The coolant temp switch is like the choke on a carbureted engine, it will make for hard starts on a cold engine, or flooded starts on a warm engine.

I would also test the fuel pressure regulator while looking at this issue. Could be too much pressure, or could be leaking through. When you pull the vacuum line off look for gas in the line
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:19 PM
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Thanks guys!! I'll get started on checking these things and post the results.
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Old 06-04-2021, 09:27 AM
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If I remember right the "111" is just a check sum signal, indicating connection has been made, so the only error to deal with is the 211 error, and I don't know what that is.
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Old 06-04-2021, 09:35 AM
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111 means computer checks out. 211 is not a code to worry with on her truck as she don't have a knock sensor

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Old 06-04-2021, 11:06 AM
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111 means computer checks out. 211 is not a code to worry with on her truck as she don't have a knock sensor

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'78 F-150 Lariat

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Originally Posted by john112deere
I think the lens of time is required to differentiate between the real milestones, and the detours along the way.
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Strippers, ammo and SKS, wow, that is almost sig worthy!!
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Old 06-05-2021, 02:55 PM
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Fuel pressure regulator tested good. I have a genisys, so I can view the ECT sensor temp and voltage. I didn’t see anything erratic, but my truck isn’t stalling or having issues on the driveway. Should I test this sensor further?

Dustybumpers, I thought 211 was for an issue with the PIP? If it’s something I can ignore that would be great news, I’ve been chasing my tail with that code.

Just waiting on the TFI from rock auto.
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Old 06-05-2021, 04:08 PM
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On your truck easy enough to see look where the plug in spout for check your timing is for cracked or melted/ torn wires and put some liquid tape on it.
Usually that code comes with knock sensor being out of range causing the code. While changing the tfi look at the spout wires to be sure tho. Btw, hope you have the tool for taking the modual out it's the same tool as the distributor one. You can pick them up at any parts store if you dont.

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