to identify the 4 spd tranny if its a borg-werner t-18 or t-19 you can atleast narrow down the company the produced it by looking at the main tranny case. the previous owner of my 79 f-250 said it was a np435(mfg by new process hence the np before the 435) but i had a clutch issue and had to...

according to my friends uncle the "newer"holes are smaller than the older ones. we did measure just to make sure and there was a small difference(if i remember right1/8th inch difference between the two)

so last week i finally "fixed" my truck. unfortunately the engine swap was a no go. the newer engine disty hole was just a tiny bit to small. the older dizzy wouldnt drop the last 1/4 inch into the new motor no matter what my friend and i did with it. fortunately for us his uncle told him to...

as for "rigging" the cheap o electric fuel pump that you have. you can always go to your local surplus store and get a set of cheap alligator clips and simply hook them to the wires on your pump and simply use a car battery or maybe a riding mower battery??? that will work for your power...

you know you drive a ford when your 300 6 runs on 5,radiator blows and you do a 5 dollar quick steel fix and it still starts and runs everytime and doesnt leave you sitting for more than 20 mins when something does act up(carb bolts came loose one night in a burger king parking lot, truck...

i think im the only one here with a 6 shooter under the hood. 79 f250 300 6 all stock and original,4 speed manual well 3 speed with creeper gear,3.54 rear, 2wd before the engine started having problems got about 12 mpg no matter what you did with it now its about 8 maybe less(running on 5 cyls...

Actually i am still looking for a replacement shock mount for my truck yes.

does anyone know where i can locate an upper drivers side rear shock mount and roughly how much it would cost? i was driving to a friends house yesterday so that we could pull all of the electronic stuff off of my "new" motor for the truck and i hit a bump and heard a nice "thunk" from under my...

again thanks to everyone for all of their advice and input. i picked the motor up on thursday, currently its sitting in a wooden crate on top of a couple old tires in the bed of the truck. i do have another question now that i have the motor. the previous owner pulled it out of an 86 f-150 4x4...

Frostburg,Md small college town about 10 miles west of Cumberland located in the appliation mtns of western Md

"As said before, I would buy it, and use it. You can't go wrong! Set the other one that comes out in a corner, and build it High performance later down the line". my thoughts exactly dusty bumpers :) build a nice mean v8 killin machine out of a bb6 definitely a plan there. i do have some plans...

so basically i dont need to purchase any parts to make the swap work for my truck. use the same carb,dist,and swap out oil pans and pick up tubes between the engines and all will work properly??? im guessing this is what youre all saying. i figured i would buy the motor either way and worst case...

the engine mounts are different between the model years. different part #s and you can tell by looking at them that they are 2 completely different styles. so will the 79 mounts work for an 86 motor??? the 86 mounts have a different bolt pattern and look to have a different setup for the rubber...

if im not mistaking the smog pump is a "general" or "standard" emissions setup on these

nice job on the paint :) personally im a fan of the krylon fusion. had an 88 tempo a few yrs ago that has crappy looking side molding on it and decided to get a can or 2 of the black,a can of silver,and a small model size jar of blue(car was blue) and taped everything off and wiped the trim down...

for a motor/trans combo for sale the other day and the person only wants 200 for everything. that said the motor is a 300 6 out of an 86 ford(f-series,van,bronco??) not sure on that but has 154k miles and i would like to pull the 300 out of my 79 and put this one in(79 engine runs on 5...

thats in great shape :) very nice

another that didnt upload the first time

i figured since there are posts such as "the dents we find" and "what did you do to your dent today" why not one about the ones we drive on a regular basis?? that said here are some pics of my 79 3/4 ton 2wd that i only paid $400 for

worst case scenario you could always buy a section of radiator hose thats the same diameter as the filler hose. i have a friend who did this and has never had any trouble with it. apparently its also cheaper as well. just a thought here

the hissing could be anything that requires a vacuum. my 79 does this at the brake booster (the grommet has a crack in it) but it doesnt affect the brakes at all im still goin to fix it all the same though

ugh thats what i was afraid of :(. im going to perform a compression test and a leak down test on the engine hopefully next week. if its just a busted valve im going to go to the junk yard and just buy another head and swap them out. i know it wont completely fix my problem but if it helps then...

as you can see here in the pic the #1 exhaust port on the manifold is nice and oily and grease coverd but the exhaust port for cyl#2 looks "normal" the metal tube is the fuel line which also is hiding the intake port for the #1 cyl this was my 1st clue that my #1 cyl wasnt functioning properly

the carbon buildup in the #1 cylinder is actually a bad problem its so bad that if i dont "clean" the plug once every week or 10 days it fouls out and makes the truck run like crap but i pulled and checked the rest of the plugs and the other 5 were in what appeared to be in good and normal condition

sorry i havent been on here lately been busy working and in the process of moving but i havent forgotten about everyone on here. unfortunately i was tracking down one problem and discovered another bigger problem. my truck has a habit of fouling out the spark plug on the #1 cylinder. that said i...

my buddy has an 86 ranger 4x4,5speed,with the 2.9 in it and it quit running on him the other day. hes checked/replaced the following:plugs,wires,dist cap,rotor,battery,alternator,starter solenoid,checked starter (checks out fine) checked the tfi module,checked all connections to and from...

i was doing some routine fluid checks on mt old truck today and when i started it up to move it i noticed a good bit of valve clatter. so i moved the truck to where i needed it and did what i was planning on doing. after checking the oil(1/2 qt low) i figured this could be a possible source for...

update: got the clutch pedal linkage fixed. i'll admit that it isnt the "proper" way to fix it but it is fixed. i took the truck to a friends house today to have the broken part of the stud drilled out of the block and my friend and i discovered that the 2 bolts that hold the other ball stud...

anything that runs when the key is on will work. my power converter is actually wired up through the radio fuse. fuse panel is under the dash on drivers side. it has a bunch of the "old school" glass tube fuses in it. jus look for the one that says "radio" on it and pull the fuse out. take your...

worst case scenario with the cig lighter you can always just buy a power converter if you dont already have one with 2 110 volt outlets. i got one from walmart its a black and decker and it has 2 hand screws on the back and 2 sets of cables that come with it. one has a cig lighter plug on it and...