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Started on the Interior

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
I had my son put a new fuel pressure regulator on my truck today and after getting up to operating temp it still stumbles,almost shuts off. It's driving me crazy, time to burn it. :headbang:
 
I had my son put a new fuel pressure regulator on my truck today and after getting up to operating temp it still stumbles,almost shuts off. It's driving me crazy, time to burn it. :headbang:

Whoa Nelly!!!!!!!!!

lets talk about this Cliff. So if I'm getting the right picture, your truck was stumbling before? You have EFI if I remember, soooo, you need to get a code reader. I had EFI in my BroncoII, and since there are sensors involved, it's the only way to trouble shoot. I had a fuel related problem with it and it turned out that the fuel rail and pressure regulator were at fault. The EFI's also have two fuel pumps, one high pressure and one low pressure. Electrical can come into play too, so you see the picture, you can go in circles :headbang: trying to find the issue. Timing may be something to check, fuel pressure, vacuum leak??

need more details to get to the bottom of the rough running, but sounds like it's fuel related.
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
Whoa Nelly!!!!!!!!!

lets talk about this Cliff. So if I'm getting the right picture, your truck was stumbling before? You have EFI if I remember, soooo, you need to get a code reader. I had EFI in my BroncoII, and since there are sensors involved, it's the only way to trouble shoot. I had a fuel related problem with it and it turned out that the fuel rail and pressure regulator were at fault. The EFI's also have two fuel pumps, one high pressure and one low pressure. Electrical can come into play too, so you see the picture, you can go in circles :headbang: trying to find the issue. Timing may be something to check, fuel pressure, vacuum leak??

need more details to get to the bottom of the rough running, but sounds like it's fuel related.

It is fuel related. The fuel pressure regulator was full of gas and had to be replaced. I also replaced the fuel pump relay. My truck has 3 fuel pumps (2 low pressure and 1 High pressure pump) Those will be last resort.

My truck runs great when cold and up to operating temperature when it hits the o in normal on the temp gauge it will surge,buck, and try to die. I and my son are thinking it's the fuel injectors so a rebuild is in the works for those and I can clean the fuel rails while it is apart. Bad part is I don't know how to pull codes or where to pull them from,plus the check engine light? hasn't come on.
 
It is fuel related. The fuel pressure regulator was full of gas and had to be replaced. I also replaced the fuel pump relay. My truck has 3 fuel pumps (2 low pressure and 1 High pressure pump) Those will be last resort.

My truck runs great when cold and up to operating temperature when it hits the o in normal on the temp gauge it will surge,buck, and try to die. I and my son are thinking it's the fuel injectors so a rebuild is in the works for those and I can clean the fuel rails while it is apart. Bad part is I don't know how to pull codes or where to pull them from,plus the check engine light? hasn't come on.

I see. (Getting my head back into the Ford Electronics) If it was the fuel injectors, you would experience problems at all temperatures. Before you spend money on a rebuild, try injector cleaner. Out of the blue, I remember having a ground issue that caused all sorts of problems.
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
I see. (Getting my head back into the Ford Electronics) If it was the fuel injectors, you would experience problems at all temperatures. Before you spend money on a rebuild, try injector cleaner. Out of the blue, I remember having a ground issue that caused all sorts of problems.

I have ran a can of Seafoam with a full tank of gas, also replaced the fuel filter. We did a full tune up new plugs (NGK), plug wires, rotor button, dist cap.
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
I can't remember which is which (open cycle or closed cycle) but it sounds like when your truck is done warming up and starts relying on the sensors, it is either running rich or lean. The warm up cycle tells me that there's nothing wrong with your injectors.

Ryan
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
I can't remember which is which (open cycle or closed cycle) but it sounds like when your truck is done warming up and starts relying on the sensors, it is either running rich or lean. The warm up cycle tells me that there's nothing wrong with your injectors.

Ryan

Where do I look? I have replaced the fuel pump relay. What other sensors are there?
 
I have ran a can of Seafoam with a full tank of gas, also replaced the fuel filter. We did a full tune up new plugs (NGK), plug wires, rotor button, dist cap.

that's all the tune up things that need to be done when we get these old trucks that have not always been maintained. Now it's into the electronics, if I remember, the port for the hook up to the code reader is just under the drivers side dash. See if you can rent one from the local auto parts store. Fellow FTF's can decode the reading you get, it is really the best way, and your not spending money on parts that may/may not change anything. I know it's frustrating, BTDT, but hang in there.

side note,
on the Bronco, it had a bad grounding issue, (think it was under water at some time) if I pushed the clutch in, the truck would almost stall!!
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
The local parts here only use readers for OBD II and up. I will have to buy a reader. Which to me will be well worth it.
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
Yeah Cliff, I paid $20 for mine a few years ago. I was in a parts store recently and saw it on the shelf for $29.99. It's WELL worth the money. Mine was a yellow reader that even came with a diagnostics book that would give you a more in depth explanation of the code. With electric controlled vehicles you can't get by without a code reader.

Ryan
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
Yeah Cliff, I paid $20 for mine a few years ago. I was in a parts store recently and saw it on the shelf for $29.99. It's WELL worth the money. Mine was a yellow reader that even came with a diagnostics book that would give you a more in depth explanation of the code. With electric controlled vehicles you can't get by without a code reader.

Ryan

I found this at O'Reillys Auto. I am going to try and get it tomorrow.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...oap?ck=Search_N0664_-1_162&pt=N0664&ppt=C0103
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
8,013
393
Iowa County, Iowa
I think you are thinking of the O2 sensor Ryan. It is warmed by the exhaust though, and typically is warmed up in about 5 minutes. However, a temperature switch that controls some vacuum function would cause trouble like that if either making a vacuum leak or something downstream is disconnected.
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
I think you are thinking of the O2 sensor Ryan. It is warmed by the exhaust though, and typically is warmed up in about 5 minutes. However, a temperature switch that controls some vacuum function would cause trouble like that if either making a vacuum leak or something downstream is disconnected.

Roger where is that switch? I don't have a FSM.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
8,013
393
Iowa County, Iowa
If equipped, it would be in the thermostat cover or nearby in the manifold where it can stick into the coolant. I am speaking in general about even having the switch. I have seen them used to keep from opening the EGR until the engine is warmed up, which could also be an issue as well. When they stick, they will behave like a vacuum leak, which in essence is what they are. The EGR is supposed to be closed when at idle, only open at high way speeds.
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
Well went to O'Reillys and had the to use their code reader on my truck. No codes showed up. Back to square one.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
8,013
393
Iowa County, Iowa
If the egr were to stay closed, it would not affect driveability. The egr's function is to recirculate some of the exhaust gasses back through the engine to keep emissions in check.
 

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