My 78 SC build/question thread

[BKW]

The AXLE code is stamped on the Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch.

Rear Axle ID Tag: Located at 5 o'clock under one of the bolts that retain the carrier to the housing.

Front Driving Axle ID Tag: Located under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing.

 

[Derfus]

Yes I had both rear wheels off the ground but I guess I'll have to mark everything and try it again soon.

I swapped the cab on this truck and couldnt get the paper "tag" off of the cab where the door latches. I did drill the metal tag off of the door if that helps...

The rear axle tag is missing and I havent looked for the tag on the front axle yet.

 

[BKW]

I swapped the cab on this truck and couldnt get the paper "tag" off of the cab where the door latches. I did drill the metal tag off of the door if that helps.

The paper tag is the glued on...white "Safety Standard's Certification Label." Does not have the AXLE code marked on it until 1981.

The AXLE code is stamped on the Warranty Plate which is riveted on the left door face below the latch.

 

[Derfus]

In that case I'll be able to tell what the code it when I get home. I just hope it's correct and the PO didnt swap it for something else.

 

[Mil1ion]

Some people say that only making sure the driveshaft turning 10 times and counting the tuirns of the tire is the only way to really figure it out .

No Tag ....?

That means to actually verify the innards you have to count both the pinion and ring gear then do the math

39 vs 13 = 3.0:1

 

[BKW]

In that case I'll be able to tell what the code it when I get home. I just hope it's correct and the PO didnt swap it for something else.

If the rear axle ratio was changed, the front would also have to be changed, as they are supposed to match.

 

[Derfus]

From some of the stuff the PO's have done to this truck It wouldnt suprise me if they didnt match. I know that it sure feels like it has a higher stall TC in it a lot of times at take off. Guess it could be it's too high geared for the 35's and tired 351m too...

 

[Derfus]

I'm sitting here looking at the door tag and it's been painted and I dont have anything to take off the paint with here. Here are the digits below the VIN

755 UP X143 F2M G 16A

06400 1978 57

 

[73FordF100]

Yeah it's a SWB but it was cut by it's PO. There is another one a lot like mine on Little Rock CL if anyone is interested.

Really? They look like they did a heck of job, it doesn't look shortened at all. Great thread BTW!

 

[John in AZ]

Yes I had both rear wheels off the ground but I guess I'll have to mark everything and try it again soon.

I swapped the cab on this truck and couldnt get the paper "tag" off of the cab where the door latches. I did drill the metal tag off of the door if that helps...

The rear axle tag is missing and I havent looked for the tag on the front axle yet.

You can order a new stick on tag for the door jamb (and the door metal tag if wanted) from martini reports people. That way your cab will match everything on the truck.
http://www.martiauto.com/tags.cfm
John

 

[Derfus]

Really? They look like they did a heck of job, it doesn't look shortened at all. Great thread BTW!

The guy I got it from is a welder by trade and from how straight it is, I believe it.

Thanks!! I'm glad someone is enjoying it. I was worried about junking/cluttering up the forum with all my random questions so I figured I'd keep them on one thread to cut the mess down! haha

John part of the reason I did the cab swap was a title problem. I would order the sticker and tag but the original cab went to the scrap yard so I have to rock the 1975 VIN. It's the biggest 2wd, shortest long bed supercab I've ever seen

 

[Mil1ion]

16A

16- 3.50:1

A - adjustable steering column with pwr steering

 

[Derfus]

Hmmm... well it's had a new column put in it I guess cause there isnt much adjustable about the one in it now!!

Thanks for the info though!!

 

[Mil1ion]

tilt.

push the TS stalk forward

 

[Derfus]

Just walked outside and tried it. It's not a tilt column, I almost broke the turn signal stalk trying.

It would have been a nice surprise.... haha

 

[Derfus]

I'm supposed to go and talk to a paint guy monday or tuesday and get a price. I'd like to do a flat tan or OD green as this truck is only really driven on weekends and will see mostly fishing, hunting and camping. If the paint guy isnt talking prices I'm willing to cough up the cash to pay I'll be getting a bunch of rattle cans and going that route. Any suggestions on type of paint? tricks? Tips?

Part of me is really hoping I rattle can paint it... It'll be fun!!! haha

 

[Derfus]

Question: I'm cruising Bronco Graveyard looking at the cab seals and come across the kit they have called super something or another. Any insight on it? Any better kits to be had that dont cost $30 to ship?

 

[Mil1ion]

There are several parts places

BOTP
Macs
Green sales
Metro

the list goes on.

 

[Derfus]

Ok I was reading up on the fan clutch that was posted a day or two ago since my truck has been running a little on the warm side. I was thinking about doing the 3g upgrade and then the Mark 8 fan upgrade but after some searching and reading I may need to stick to my clutch fan set up.

I ditched the stat and have been running without one and read where that can cause higher temps (the reason stated made sense).

My new question is what signs do I look for that my fac clutch is going out? Summer is coming and they are very hot and very humid here... I've got a 160 degree stat waiting to go in but might as well do the clutch too if it's time.

 

[Mil1ion]

Put a 180* in there and leave it alone.

The T-stat is merely a switch...to allow coolant to flow past the door.
It has nothing to do with overheating, hot or cold engine unless it fails on the CLOSED position.

You can tell the fan clutch is gone bad by looking for a fluid leak out the side of the spindle

and

the fan is always LOUD when you rev the engine up.

fan clutches should always be stored flat side down.