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General Dentside Chit-Chat

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LEB Ben

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When I was younger I would ask my grandfather why he had more then one extra part ?

He would just scratch his head and say " not sure "

Now I know. I just bought a NOS drivers side arm rest for my truck but I already have one. I needed the passenger side. Anybody want to trade.

It's (blue) by the way
 

UNRULEE

^LARGE carbon footprint^
What ever happened to STG's D60 crossover write, and all of his other write ups for that matter?
 

UNRULEE

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Anyone have a stock height 78-79 F250 4x4 and a tape measure (m78 I'm looking your way)?

I want to figure out how much lift my 79 has.
 

UNRULEE

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What measurements do you need ?

Anything that would take tire height out of the equation. Center of lock out hub to center of dent would probably be the easiest.
 

UNRULEE

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Lee, 28" c to c. w/ d60 camper special suspension. It might be different with a d44

Thanks! Mine mesures 33 1/2". Looks close enough to a 6" lift to me.
 

UNRULEE

^LARGE carbon footprint^
What size tires are you running ?

35's with plenty of room.. Once I get 4.56's in the axles and the current rubber wears out I'll put 37's on her.
 

LEB Ben

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Anyone know what size thread I'll need so I can lift from the carb plate on an Eddy Performer intake for a 351M/400?
 

73F100Shortbed

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I think you can just use the carburetor studs that are there Ben.
 

LEB Ben

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Thanks, And just put a nut on them, that would work, I figured it would just be a little more stable with a bolt and a couple washers.
 

73F100Shortbed

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I think the stud would actually be better since it is threaded in tightly and then tighten with a nut and a washer and you should be fine. If you want to use a bolt I would think the thread is probably 5/16" or something like that. I'm sure someone will have that info for you shortly.
 

bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
I also believe it's 5/16 Ben. I'd go with a bolt rather than using the stud bolts and a nut just because you have more threads to work with using a bolt to hold the weight of the motor.
 

LEB Ben

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Dammit...got another question for you guys...noticed yesterday, that upon start up and the first few minutes of driving, I have minimal brakes, plenty of pedal, but almost like manual brakes. Then after a few minutes everything is back to normal. What do you guys think...vacuum line, MC/booster going bad (MC is a year old)????????? Pretty sure this points to the booster, and I had a feeling it's been going down hill for the last couple months. Be a good time for a 350 MC/Booster upgrade.
 

bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
I could be just the vacuum. Make sure that there is nothing wrong with the line or the plastic connector that goes into the booster. If all is well with those things than it could be that the booster is going bad.
 
I would think the booster is either good or bad. It is basically a big diaphram in the middle that holds air. With it working like normal after a few minutes I would suspect it still is good. What does the fluid capacity look like in the M/C? Any leaks between booster and M/C?
 

UNRULEE

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Could it be the check valve at the booster?
 

LEB Ben

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I could be just the vacuum. Make sure that there is nothing wrong with the line or the plastic connector that goes into the booster. If all is well with those things than it could be that the booster is going bad.

Alright...I'll give that a look tomorrow.

I would think the booster is either good or bad. It is basically a big diaphram in the middle that holds air. With it working like normal after a few minutes I would suspect it still is good. What does the fluid capacity look like in the M/C? Any leaks between booster and M/C?

Between the MC/booster is dry. Noticed a wheel cylinder leak just a few minutes ago? Air getting in from there?

Could it be the check valve at the booster?

Dunno...I'll give it a look tomorrow, it's raining now.
 
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