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Emergancy - Fuel Filter Help.

No clue on yours. On my old 89 ranger it was just to the right of the transmission tunnel up next to the dash (this was under the carpet).
Come to think of it....mine did go out once. To get it home (if that is the issue), Just unplug the switch and use a piece of wire to jump across the two wires in the plug. That should let it start and get home safely.
 
No, My grandpa towed it home for me. Aint nothing that man can't do.
The problem is that I work 4-12PM, and I have no other mode of transportation. This truck just needs to last long enough so I can get some money gathered up to get a more fuel friendly car. (Which then, I'll probably turn this into a racer, rebuild the engine myself so I know what is where and so on.)
I'll check and see if I can't find that reset in the morning.
 
Thank you very much. I'll look around and see if I can't find anything.
 

mtflat

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If it idles smooth: You also might check the pump when it's idling. Quick and short - push in the schrader valve on the fuel rail and see if you have pressure. (looks like a tire valve) A healthy squirt will tell you if your high pressure pump is working. If you only get a dribble its likely the pump is gone.

If it runs really ragged: the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail could be bad. Driver's side toward the rear around cylinders 7 & 8. When it goes it dumps all the fuel into the no. 8 cylinder.

System has low pressure pump in the tank along with a sock filter.
High pressure pump and canister filter is under the cab inside the frame rail.
If the filter failed on the high pressure pump, it'll usually take out the pump too.

Re: the fuel shutoff on the firewall. I was in an accident and the wires tore loose from the switch on the engine side (had rotted/corroded off) I had to twist them together - I think it's still running that way.
 
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On the firewall, that's in the engine compartment, under the windshield. But where abouts? Any specific location or what it looks like?
As for the rest of it, that's unknown territory for me. Not a clue what you mean.
 

mtflat

Flatheads Forever
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On the firewall, that's in the engine compartment, under the windshield. But where abouts? Any specific location or what it looks like?
As for the rest of it, that's unknown territory for me. Not a clue what you mean.

Sorry, my fuel cutoff switch was on the firewall - passenger side of the trans tunnel and just above the line where the floorboard meets the firewall. On the engine side the two wires go thru the firewall right to the cutoff switch. If yours in mounted behind the driver's side kickplate, my description won't help.

You might want to buy a shop manual - Haynes is pretty decent for these trucks and has a fair amount of pics that help me locate things.

btw the fuel cutoff switch is technically called the fuel system inertia switch. It's a spring loaded switch that in the event of an accident or hard landing when 4wheeling or even a severe pothole - it trips and shuts off electricity to the fuel pumps.

I'll try to talk you thru the others one at a time if you want. Let me know.
 
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I've got a manual, and since you just renamed it, lol I can find it cause that's what the book called it. Gimme some time to find this first, then we'll move on.
 
Alright, I found the Fuel system inertia switch, The Haynes manual I have says that it being "down" is the closed position, which is what it should be right?
I'm about to go outside and see if it opens up or if it's a plug issue, follow some wires and make sure nothing is shorted out.
By the way, the switch was located on the passenger side, right beside the "hump" (Transmission housing? I'd guess.) Under the glove box. Nothing I can actually do till I can get it jumped, battery ran down from all the attempts to start it. (Oh boy.)
Any bits of advice or anything?
 
Alright, update. I put the key in the ignition and I've got some sound from the pumps, both for the front, and the back, so I'm guessing whatever I've done in the matter of pushing on the button, and pushing the wire into the switch.
Of course, I could have been getting this all along and not know it because of being on the side of the highway.
Of course, still can't do nothing till I jump the battery.
 
Your fuel filter is a round paper filter. It is inside that thing you took a photo of.
To change it you need a small oil filter wrench.
Use much care when you put the cap back on the bottom that you do not mess up the large "O" ring.
Most 86 FI f-150 did not have a in line fuel filter.

Here is an image if you have two tanks and if you have one it looks the same except it does not have the valves inside and only has two line connections on each side.
dfres.jpg
 
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Alright, update. I put the key in the ignition and I've got some sound from the pumps, both for the front, and the back, so I'm guessing whatever I've done in the matter of pushing on the button, and pushing the wire into the switch.
Of course, I could have been getting this all along and not know it because of being on the side of the highway.
Of course, still can't do nothing till I jump the battery.
If you are talking about the front and back pumps in the tanks then you need also the hi-pressure pump on the frame rail to run also or it will not run.
 
Alright, I have that filter, I'll change it here soon. My grandpa has a charger, he's gonna trickle charge the battery overnight and bring it back around tomorrow. We'll see what's what.
And that front pump, how can I tell if it's working? (I guess by trying to start it? Haha!)
What's it actually called, is it the High Pressure fuel pump the haynes manual is talking about?
 
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Alright, I have that filter, I'll change it here soon. My grandpa has a charger, he's gonna trickle charge the battery overnight and bring it back around tomorrow. We'll see what's what.
And that front pump, how can I tell if it's working? (I guess by trying to start it? Haha!)
What's it actually called, is it the High Pressure fuel pump the haynes manual is talking about?
Yes the pump mounted on the frame rail is the High Pressure fuel pump.
You should hear it run for one second when you first turn on the key and then it will stop.
If the High Pressure fuel pump (or the in tank pumps) does not stop after one second we then have big problems.
 
Actually the two back pumps, that's where the sound of the pumps are coming from. Only ran for about a second each.
 
I think you are saying the hi pressure pump on the frame did not run at all when you turned on the key. You are also saying that the selected in tank pump did run. If that is the case then you need to check for power at the hi pressure pump on the frame.
To do this ground pin #6 of the test connector, turn on the key and verify that the selected in tank pump is running and the frame pump is not.
If the frame pump is not then turn off the key, unplug the frame pumps plug at the pump.
Using at 12 volt test light with an incandescent bulb in it (not neon) , turn on the key with pin #6 still grounded and see if you have power at the pump.
If you have power with a test light (do not use a voltmeter in the fuel circuits) you have a bad pump.
If you do not have power post back and we will help you from this point of the testing.

The test connector near the fuel pump relay on the drivers fender:
Data_Link_Conn.JPG


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mtflat

Flatheads Forever
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Bill, I've kept up with this thread out of curiosity. My 86 has the inline filter that you show for 87-89 instead of the paper filter canister.

It was built late in the model year in Canada. I've found my trans also wants 87 parts, but this is the first time I've noticed a difference on fuel system details.

Thanks for helping him out.
 

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