302 swap

[flareside_thunder]

MAF:

SD:

 

[Romans117]

Sweet pics. TY

 

[flareside_thunder]

You're welcome, actually the top one I took of mine yesterday for a completely different reason.

 

[Romans117]

My 92 has a SD. The 302 HO I am looking to swap in looks like a MAF set up on the throttle body. Is the intake different for a SD and a MAF? It appears to be the same injector set-up.

 

[flareside_thunder]

Same intake.....

 

[Romans117]

I got the used 302 HO yesterday. The 302 HO was from a 95 Mustang. In looking over the used motor there are some wrinkles I need to run past you guys.

The rocker arm covers on the HO 302 are not as deep as the F-150, the water pump is smaller, and overall the asseeories are larger and bulkier on the 150. I understand the oil pan and pick up will need to be switched out.

My question is, is the deeper rocker arm covers needed and the heavier duty water pump? I understand the weight of the truck (a 4x4) is bigger than the stang and therefore requires more water flow and oil capacity. But I am wondering if the head itself is bigger on the 150

 

[flareside_thunder]

No the heads are the same E7TE's. The mustang valve covers are shorter (I think) to compensate for the different style intake. Check the clearance between the VC and the intake. To switch to the truck WP I believe you'll have to swap out the timing cover. I don't see how the truck WP would make a difference but it'd be nice to swap the truck one on so it'd be a bit easier to keep track of parts.....Swapping the timing cover from the truck may also be a requirement to run the truck accessory brackets as well.

 

[conanski]

The easiest way to do a HO swap into a truck is to strip the motor down to the longblock and dress it with the truck intake, oilpan and pickup, water pump and all accessories. The only significant difference beween the HO and truck 5.0 is the cam, otherwise it's the same block, crank, con rods, and heads. Pistons are also different but compression ratio is the same so that doesn't really matter.

 

[Romans117]

The swap went well. The required broken bolts, stripped bolt heads, smashed fingers, and cuts that should have had stiches.

I put the motor in three times in one day. Tip for ya on motor swaps. When swapping in motors from a manual transmission to an auto transmission check the motor to bell housing pins before install. Auto trans there is one pin on the bell houusing and one pin on the motor, on opposite sides.

One major realization. Why the heck did ford produce a motor with no timing adjustments?

I need some assistance on some other issues:

The motor shudders when started but then goes to 1100 rpm. Never comes down. I am having an issue with the thermostat that I think contributes to the issue. It is a 195 degree and the temps here have been major cold. I got rid of the air bubble from complete disassembly. The air value is good to go. No carbon and opens and closes.

The tps tests out to spec. It is not adjustable.

I will be replacing the vacuum line assembly as it is falling apart.

When I press on the throttle the motor starts missing. It acts like the motor is not advancing the spark to match the throttle. It will then accelerate and does not stumble to 4,000 rpm.

When I put the truck in gear it becomes jerking and starts missing.

I am unable to determine if the timing is right. It is driving me crazy.

I have a wire I cannot find a home for. Driver side motor. All connections accounted for. The power steering and a/c is all there is. The a/c clutch wire is accounted for. It is a two prong two wire set up. The manual says power steering pressure. I can find no place on the power steering with a slot.

I have gotten a lot of help here and I am grateful.

 

[Romans117]

The easiest way to do a HO swap into a truck is to strip the motor down to the longblock and dress it with the truck intake, oilpan and pickup, water pump and all accessories. The only significant difference beween the HO and truck 5.0 is the cam, otherwise it's the same block, crank, con rods, and heads. Pistons are also different but compression ratio is the same so that doesn't really matter.

You were completely correct about the strip down.

 

[conanski]

One major realization. Why the heck did ford produce a motor with no timing adjustments?.

What do you mean, timing is adjusted by turning the distributor.. same any any other SBF.

The motor shudders when started but then goes to 1100 rpm. Never comes down.

You do have the spark plugs wired for the HO firing order(13726548) and not the old 5.0 firing order?

 

[Fellro]

I put the motor in three times in one day. Tip for ya on motor swaps. When swapping in motors from a manual transmission to an auto transmission check the motor to bell housing pins before install. Auto trans there is one pin on the bell housing and one pin on the motor, on opposite sides.

For future reference, this isn't true, what you experienced was the lineup pins sticking, just so happened to be opposite. In actuality, both are supposed to stay in the block, but on occasion they will stick in the trans bell.

It was mentioned earlier that you had to change the oil pan, which you don't actually have to, but I would recommend it all the same. The front plug would dump on the crossmember.

 

[Romans117]

What do you mean, timing is adjusted by turning the distributor.. same any any other SBF.



You do have the spark plugs wired for the HO firing order(13726548) and not the old 5.0 firing order?

Specifically, there is nothing in the manual regarding timing marks, degrees to set to. Yes I can turn the dis.

Are you jerking my chain on the firing order? I wired it according to the pre 93.

 

[Romans117]

For future reference, this isn't true, what you experienced was the lineup pins sticking, just so happened to be opposite. In actuality, both are supposed to stay in the block, but on occasion they will stick in the trans bell.

It was mentioned earlier that you had to change the oil pan, which you don't actually have to, but I would recommend it all the same. The front plug would dump on the crossmember.

I had to beat the pin out of the motor with a 3 lb hammer and a punch. So I deduced the pins in the bell housing were designed to be that way. I learned several things to day. Thank you. I did change the pan and pick-up.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Conanski is right the Ho is wired differently

 

[Romans117]

You do have the spark plugs wired for the HO firing order(13726548) and not the old 5.0 firing order?

I am going to try the firing order and see. Thank you for your help.

 

[5.0Flareside]

Yeah, the HO uses the 351W firing order..

 

[Romans117]

You hit it on the head. Runs like a top.

 

[Ridgerunner]

You hit it on the head. Runs like a top.

Glad you got it Running.

 

[conanski]

Specifically, there is nothing in the manual regarding timing marks, degrees to set to. Yes I can turn the dis.

In the owners manual.. no, but the base timing setting is printed on the emissions sticker which would originally be on top of the rad support on these trucks. FWIW that factory setting is 10deg BTDC but most motors will tolerate a few degrees more than that, and with a 6-liter tunup a few degrees more again. Advancing the timing more than stock improves Tq output but overdoing it can lead to spark knock(pinging), so you'll have to experiment with your truck to find the happy medium. Setting the timing involves attaching a timing light, removing the spout plug(in the TFI wiring harness) to disable computer advance, and then turning the distributor to achieve the desired base advance as observed with the light pointed at the timing marks on the crank balancer. Once there the distributor is locked down and the spout plug re-inserted.

Are you jerking my chain on the firing order?

Sorry.. I don't touch another man's chain.