1986 supercab

[crazycanuck]

Deleted a ton of wiring today. Both factory and p/o installed. Really starting to take shape now, all the computer wiring and connectors are out now.

 

[Beach66Bum]

Deleted a ton of wiring today. Both factory and p/o installed. Really starting to take shape now, all the computer wiring and connectors are out now.

Awesome!

 

[crazycanuck]

Had her running today, got the cam broke in, took a quick shot up the dirt road, huge difference from before

 

[Beach66Bum]

Had her running today, got the cam broke in, took a quick shot up the dirt road, huge difference from before

That's a monster!
engine looks nice, how does it sound!?

 

[crazycanuck]

That's a monster!
engine looks nice, how does it sound!?

Thanks, not much sound to it, it's got headers, dual exhaust into a dual in, dual out , long muffler, so it is pretty quiet. I'm thinking i want it to be louder, but that will have to wait till after safety inspection. It has a little more throaty than the worn out 302, but I chose a cam that is pretty close to the stock 1986 351ho specs, but with a 107 LSA .

Iv got a few little odds and ends to button up yet.

 

[crazycanuck]

I had steering issues with this truck since I've lifted it, very disappointed with the style of the lift but that is my fault for cheaping out with rough country, the first issues were the wimpy bolts and brackets for the pivot drop brackets, drilled out and half inch bolts and a bead of weld on the cross member fixed the moving pivot drop brackets. Next up was the radius arm drop brackets, they were twisting the frame rails inwards from the bottom and lowering the front cab mounts, so I spread the drop brackets back out about 2" so the frame rates are straight up and down again, and welded some square tubing between the brackets, here is a final pic of the cross brace installed, I still have to check driveshaft clearance yet.

 

[Beach66Bum]

I had steering issues with this truck since I've lifted it, very disappointed with the style of the lift but that is my fault for cheaping out with rough country, the first issues were the wimpy bolts and brackets for the pivot drop brackets, drilled out and half inch bolts and a bead of weld on the cross member fixed the moving pivot drop brackets. Next up was the radius arm drop brackets, they were twisting the frame rails inwards from the bottom and lowering the front cab mounts, so I spread the drop brackets back out about 2" so the frame rates are straight up and down again, and welded some square tubing between the brackets, here is a final pic of the cross brace installed, I still have to check driveshaft clearance yet.

Looking at your pic's I'm wondering if the other kits would have a cross member like you fabricated. It looks to me like a must, you can totally see how it would cause twisting issues on the frame without that support brace.

 

[crazycanuck]

Looking at your pic's I'm wondering if the other kits would have a cross member like you fabricated. It looks to me like a must, you can totally see how it would cause twisting issues on the frame without that support brace.

Quick research, I'm not the only person to experience the issue of the radius arm brackets twisting with rough country, and skyjacker offers a much beefier pivot drop brackets, and the more expensive lifts use long radius arms that are angled back up to the frame and beefier than stock but low profile like the stock radius arm mounts, possibly eliminating the need for the brace keeping it close to the rails.

 

[crazycanuck]

The old girl cleans up pretty good, also mounted and installed the 31" tires today. Pics tomorrow, customer it was dark when I was doing the tires

 

[fatherdoug]

That looks nice. What are the wires going across the top of the hood. I wish Grant made a steering wheel with cruise control.

 

[crazycanuck]

The wires are hooked to nothing, they were p/o fog light and trailer wiring, I just tucked them under the wipers to keep them out of my way while removing unnessary wiring and will be pulling them to install all new trailer wiring. Here is a pic of the 31" tires on er, it will be staying that way for a bit

 

[Beach66Bum]

The old girl cleans up pretty good, also mounted and installed the 31" tires today. Pics tomorrow, customer it was dark when I was doing the tires

Your red interior brings back memories....

 

[crazycanuck]

Your red interior brings back memories....

I hope good ones!

 

[whiteline1942]

My ride is a 86 F-150 Lariet, 302 auto, completely stock. I am having a problem I hope one of you can answer. I bought it 3 mo. ago, replaced starter solenoid 2 mo. ago because starter wouldn't disengage. 2 weeks later, replaced starter, burned out. replaced solenoid again 2 weeks later, not disengaging, 2 days later same problem. this time also replaced starter ignition switch, and cleaned rod and lubricated. Same day, about 10 starts later, it did it again. I don't know what else to do. I am not a mechanic, just a tinkerer. any suggestions please??

 

[crazycanuck]

My ride is a 86 F-150 Lariet, 302 auto, completely stock. I am having a problem I hope one of you can answer. I bought it 3 mo. ago, replaced starter solenoid 2 mo. ago because starter wouldn't disengage. 2 weeks later, replaced starter, burned out. replaced solenoid again 2 weeks later, not disengaging, 2 days later same problem. this time also replaced starter ignition switch, and cleaned rod and lubricated. Same day, about 10 starts later, it did it again. I don't know what else to do. I am not a mechanic, just a tinkerer. any suggestions please??

I don't think it is in your switch, but I want more info, you say won't disengage, so it still cranks while running , or it still cranks if you shut the truck off and only way to stop crank is disconnect the battery? When you turn it to the start position, what do you? Do u just let go of the key?,help it back to the run position? I'm thinking there is a gummed up tumbler cylinder on your column. I seen it lots where you have to help it back to the run position from start., The last 3 80's Ford I have had were like that, if u crank and just let go, it would stay cranking till yiu helped it back to the run position. I just live with it because I'm the only person who drives my trucks, but I think you need a new ignition cylinder. If it is controlled from the key, if you won't stop cranking with the truck off and key out then you have a wiring issue. Hope this helps, but is just my opinion, I haven't seen your truck and your description is very vague.

 

[whiteline1942]

I appreciate the quick comeback. I tried helping it back, but I can turn key off and it keeps cranking. I can take the small red agitatter wire off the solenoid , still spins. only way to stop is to disengage battery. I guess I need to start tracing wires. I guess I only need to trace the small red wire and the wire from solenoid to starter. Thanks I will let you know what happens, but sometimes it took a couple weeks to show up again. My other trucks are an F-350 flatbed with a crane for hauling scrap metal, and my project, 1988 F-150 custom w/ an inline 6 4 speed. transmission and clutch both out in bed. Bought new clutch, but tranny is paast repairing. trying to find a 4 speed or an auto w/ flexplate and steering column.

 

[crazycanuck]

OK, now I can help u more, sounds like it is burning up the solenoids, if you are removing the exciter wire and it is still cranking, I would look at all your large cables and grounds, somewhere there is an issue of high amperage happening because of a high load or resistance between the battery and solenoid and starter , and ground, I would look closely at the battery terminals, check battery voltage (12.6v) the battery cables from positive to solenoid and from the solenoid to starter, and from negative to the block. I'm certain you will find your issues in that circuit from your description.id recommend changing the cables above just due to age, the corrosion or might not be visible but within the conduit covering the cable causing issues.

 

[crazycanuck]

And something else to check where u just replaced the solenoid, is there a possibility of one of the wire strands crossing to another terminal or the exciter terminal

 

[Beach66Bum]

I hope good ones!

lol, yup good ones for sure!!

 

[crazycanuck]

Been busy with stuff, but small update, I definitely have cooling issues, the single row rad struggled with the ,302, but with the engine now, it can't keep it cool. Only at just above idle and no load will it cool itself down, so a rad upgrade will have to get done and got the engine bay tidied up, not clean but getting rid if clutter and unnecessary wires and vac lines.All the fender flares are reached with large rivits. That's about all