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1986 supercab

Just picked this truck up in Dec. Had a blown 9inch. Gave the guy 200 bucks , he said I'd need a trailer.... I walked around it, locked in the hubs in, pulled her into 4x4 and drove her away... And around town for 2 weeks like that. So here it is from start to now...


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Details are 302 efi. NP 435 , a/c works well. 275xxx kms on her. What I've done are 6 inch rough country lift, new to truck rear end from my now parts truck, grill swap with parts truck New brakes, brake hoses, every u- joint , clean and repack front wheel bearings, 2 inch leveling spacers , new shocks with lift kit, new steering wheel , plugs, wires, cap and rotor, headers, custom exhaust, winch, pushbar, 40 inch lightbar on front. Also installed cutout fender flares.Here are a few more pics


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Staff member
Is the back of the truck sitting low, or is it just the way it is sitting on the street?

BTW, nice work, rig looks good.
What a change! looks fantastic :) I just sold my 2 wheel drive '83 f250 Supercab. Been selling parts that I had collected over the years, not much left but here's what I still have.

tachometer but not the printed circuit board
rubber floor dimmer switch cap (hard to find)
spare gauges
gas pedal spring (which keeps the pedal flat on the arm)
digital clock
under hood work lamp
some other little things, have to look

let me know in a PM if you could use any of this, I'll give it to you for free :)
Thanks Big Jim, I also prefer the other body style better too. The one in my avatar pic is one I built previously.

Fellro, yep she sits slightly lower in the rear, planned it that way. I like to be different hahasmilietease

Amkatt1, always good to know where to source more parts, espically rare and hard to find items. I'll definately keep you in mind . Thanks
I just dropped some coin on some chromalloy CV front axle shafts for the supercab. Can't wait. Also upgrading to 30 spline warn premium lockout hubs. Hoping for smooth power delivery to the front wheels while steering. Also the chromalloy shafts are significantly stronger than stock. That's good because they have to turn 39' superswampers.


Staff member
I am a little confused... are you expecting the lockout hubs to make a difference when turning? Unless I am missing something, they won't make any difference there. They are simply to engage the axle so it will turn the wheels, but will not make a difference on the ability to turn while engaged.
Fellro, replacing the 3 u-joints axleshafts with chromalloy axle shafts with CV joints in place of the u-joints. Also upgrading from the 19 spline putter stubs to 30 spline outter spline stubs. I'll need the warn premium lockouts to work with this setup


Staff member
I would expect the same issues on turns though even with all that. The lack of give between the front tires gives the catchy feeling when turning in 4wd, especially worse with lockers. CV joints are just a ball bearing u-joint in essence. I get that you are adding strength, it is the
Hoping for smooth power delivery to the front wheels while steering
that I don't understand.


Staff member
I fully understand cv vs u-joint. That is not the part I don't get. A u-joint can give smooth power transfer too, the main thing is the angle they get turned at. However, the turns will still feel jerky due to the tire on the inside of the turn moving at a different speed than the tire on the outside, not the knuckle that connects it. Now, if you are turning real tight, the u-joints can make it a bit rough, but the factory limited the turning radius to prevent joint binding.
When stuck in mu or snow, all wheels straight , get on the throttle power delivery is smooth. Turn the steering wheel left or right you would expirence a "chatter "from the front axle due to fluxuations in wheel speeds due to the cross section of a u-joint. Ultimatly catastrophic to u-joints and axle shafts due to shock loading and unloading. A CV shaft has a full range of motion without the fluctuations of the cross section of a u-joint.


Staff member
That phenomena only happens at full lock. I agree that will improve with cv joints. That is the only time it will though, as I had mentioned it was due to the angle of the joint. That is what I didn't follow, as it is only on full turn, partials will not be noticeably different.
Glad we are all on the same page now....
I'm looking forward to getting the parts. I picked up a new set of headers too. The old ones are rotten where the down tubes meet the collector flange. Hopefully late next week I'll be able to throw them in. While I'm under the truck going to have a look at a few other minor issues. My basement is starting to look like a parts store haha


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The Token Canadian
Staff member
I also know what you are getting at about the double cardan in the knuckles, my big truck has it...allows for a 42 deg crimp angle and no steering wheel jerk on at hard turn...unless the front axle is locked at the diff.

What part of Alberta you at?