Preparing for a ZF Swap

[Skandocious]

I Work a week of 16 hour days look at all the posts I missed.

Everything should be a go . U got the front shaft covered as said . floor pan,trans ,exfer case, And know a good shaft shop. Peddles r same

Only thing I see is your xsfer is electric . You need manual exsfer (Probably know it ) And shift linkage ,boot for inside.

Cosmetically u will need the manual plate ,(To delete indicator ) gauge cluster surround,and the covers for steering colomn to do away with hole for Zf.

If u can't find a ECU (and this has probably been descussed and I missed it ) I'm told thet if u wire MPLS sensor to be in neutral (Loop ) It will work fine with Manual trans.

I admit I skipped threw this post a little so sorry for rehashing things already descussed.

Thanks for the advice Larry! I plan on swapping my electric tcase over to the ZF. Also -- you say the pedals are the same --- you mean the pedals out of a gen 8 and EXACTLY the same as the gen 9? Still haven't figured out which may I'm gonna go with the ECU thing -- I'll cross that bridge when it comes.

 

[john112deere]

One somewhat related thing that occurs to me...make sure you replace the clutch pedal bushings!

My friend's '95 eats 'em every 30k or so, and once they get worn the pedal sticks about an inch from the top and you've got to pop it the last little bit with your toe. I think something's probably bent on his truck, but still- do 'em while it's easy.

 

[Skandocious]

One somewhat related thing that occurs to me...make sure you replace the clutch pedal bushings!

My friend's '95 eats 'em every 30k or so, and once they get worn the pedal sticks about an inch from the top and you've got to pop it the last little bit with your toe. I think something's probably bent on his truck, but still- do 'em while it's easy.

Good advice, thanks.

 

[Lost]

The Mount for the Peddles . They r different according to My parts catolog . But I know someone who might have one if you no find one.

Also crossmeber may be diff if that was not covered .But a pc. of plate steel can fix mount problems. I think ZF is 3" Shorter.

One of my local parts guys

 

[Lost]

Hey Most trucks out there r MAF . So I bet the manuals had then out there also . So a Manual ecu is possible.

But with your knowledge of wires a Stang ecu will work or custom. I'd try the MPLS in neutral first.

 

[Skandocious]

Yeah the crossmember is a little different --- I'm not sure how I'll attack that one quite yet. See if maybe I can steal one from a junkyard (probably not) otherwise I might just have to ask the welder up the street to fab up a little bracket for me

Can anyone confirm that ALL Borg Warner 1356's have the same bolt pattern for the transmission tailhousing? That is --- I've got an electric 1356 from 95 and the ZF currently has a manual 1356 from an 89... Will my tcase be a direct bolt to the adapter that's currently on the ZF transmission?

 

[flareside_thunder]

I wouldn't see why not, the only difference in the t-cases IIRC is that the electric motor takes the place of the shift lever.

 

[Skandocious]

Keep in mind the difference in generations too. One is from an 89 and one is from a 95. Did they change anything else?

 

[andym]

The transfer case will swap over no problem. They are all the same pattern. You don't NEED a new ECU, the E4OD will just see there's no tranny and throw a couple codes. It won't set the CEL.

 

[Skandocious]

The only thing I'm worried out --- will I fail smog if the computer has codes stored? Do they just check to make sure it doesn't throw a light or do they actually scan the computer?

 

[eco]

Without a data link connector they can't scan the computer - so the codes are irrelevant.

 

[Skandocious]

Without a data link connector they can't scan the computer - so the codes are irrelevant.

They could pick them up from the diagnostic port under the hood...

I guess my question is... Do they read the codes when they do emissions testing?

 

[eco]

Thats not a data link connector. Only OBD2 rigs have one. Anything that is pre-OBD2 does not get the codes pulled at emissions testing.

The DLC is an OBD2 only thing that is located under the dash on the drivers side.

A law was passed that required ALL vehical manufacturers to install a common DLC, in a common location that would all hook up to the same scan tool. Also, all manufacturers had to have an engine management system that set a CEL for ANYTHING that raised the emission output of the vehical (tailpipe, evap etc.) by ~5% (I think it was 5%, but I am not sure as to the exact #) and that was the birth of the EEC-V and all other OBD2 systems. This all was phased in and implemented 100% in 1996.

This is why OBD1 rigs have several different ways to get data from the computer, yet OBD2 is all the same regardless of manuacturer. The idea behind this is to make it quick and easy for test stations to test the rigs without having to analyze the exhaust gases (that costs them more $$$$) and the emissions standards got stiffer. They use one scan tool for all rigs. Anything that increases the emissions sets a code and they will see it, simple as that. If you erase the codes then go for testing they will see that there arn't enough "trips" to get data and you fail for that too. With OBD1, codes don't set based on emission output, but rather when critical input data is missing, inaccurate etc. and thats it. The OBD2 may have codes for the input data too, but it has all the additional codes for the various emissions.

 

[Skandocious]

Sweet, thanks for the info eco. So it sounds like as long as my CEL isn't lit when they check my truck I'm good to go. From what I've heard, if the CEL is lit then you don't pass. Worst case scenario, I can always pull the bulb for the CEL

 

[A_G]

actually the data link connect port is nearest the passenger side. After 96 they goverment required the port to be located under the driveside dash.

Mine is right above the tranny hump on the pass corner

 

[Skandocious]

Just got the go-ahead from Tom for shop/driveway usage during the swap

I'm gonna contact the guy and have him start taking it apart.

 

[surewhynot]

Cool! Can't wait for the progress pics.

 

[msb71]

This is a big project for ya Skank, take your time and do it right the first time , ok.

 

[Skandocious]

This is a big project for ya Skank, take your time and do it right the first time , ok.

Yeah I'll try

He told me he'd remove the clutch/brake pedal assembly for an extra $25 and send that with the rest of the parts. Apparently that part is a bear to get out. If the pedals are in good shape (I don't want dilapidated pedals in my mall crawler ), you think $25 is a pretty good deal? Figure it'll save me the effort of having to pull them myself at the junkyard.

 

[TheRoadVirus]

Nice! We expect full progress pic's.