Well.. the short story is you ain't gonna get it. Those heads are WAY too small for the motor which effectively limits the powerband to something like 0-4000rpm, and to get a really lumpy idle you need a cam designed to produce power from 3000rpm and up. So you got a choice to make, do you want...

That does sound wacked but I suggest you pull the codes to see what has been flagged, could be you just have a fried MLPS that isn't really shifting the trans through the gears anymore.

The AOD is not stronger than the 4R70w and E4OD so this is a step backwords. What exactly is the trans doing that makes you think it's fried anyway? As already stated these things are completely computer controlled so any sensor issue anywhere on the powertrain and including the speed sensor...

FWIW.. The Explorer/GT40 intakes are nice.. very nice in the case of the tubular GT40 upper... but from a performance standpoint they're a bit of a sideways step from the 5.0 truck intake and the truck intake has a couple key advantages. a) the truck dual throttlebodies are equavelent to a 75mm...

Oh.. it needs a camshaft alright:DYou wouldn't believe how much of a difference this one simple change makes, and your truck is all setup for it with 4.10 gears. That should be a roller motor as well so you only need the cam.. which would be the Comp 35-512-8 if I were suggesting. This is a...

No.. it is the EXACT same cam with 2 degrees less LSA. Didn't we go over all this already? I comment on a lot of build threads here and elsewhere so forgive me if I didn't explain this. Well see... no it doesn't. Like I said these two cams are nearly identical with the exact same lobe...

Well.. as stock cams go that one isn't all that bad, it's a little small for a 351 but is hugh compared to the earlier flat tappet cam these motors got.

Yes anybody can do it.Well the first thing you should learn is that you really don't want intake ports that smooth, a slightly rough surface actually promotes higher airflow and helps keep fuel suspended in the air column.. which isn't as big a deal with EFI but it's still an issue on the...

I think the mechanics are being overly dramatic, if you want to look at it as they describe you are keeping that "matched" set together just installing it inside a different housing and I don't see how that would shorten their life. If this were a R&P set I'd agree with them but not for these...

4.10's are just about perfect for an AOD truck, that trans has a stupid deep overdrive ratio(0.67) and your truck is pretty light compared to most being a reg cab 2wd.For camparison my 5.9(357) powered 5000lb beast managed close to 18mpg with the cruise set at 70mph, it's also got the AOD and...

Given the tolerances of the parts you're talking about here you won't have a problem with this swap, the gear mesh of the pinion gears will vary quite a bit as the clutch packs wear so these aren't "setup" like the ring and pinion.

The cam should be the last component selected because selecting the right one depends entirely on what other components are on and in the motor.

And I'm not tryng to discourage you just expose the realities of the endeavor. If you search around the web for a "fuel injector calculator" you will see that the numbers are all based on a nominal or reference fuel presure of 43.5psi, this is the pressure at the rail with vacuum removed from...

Unfortunately there is no way around that, if you put the big cam in you'll be stuck driving an underperforming slug that will piss you off because it's so sluggish for what you spent building it. If you step up and get appropriate sized heads and intake for it now you also need larger...

Yep.. that's what's in my motor. yes every little bit helps. Yes it'll cause problems, and I've already told you how to get around that.. simply install an adjustable FPR and crank up the pressure a little.

Here's the real deal.. despite what you want out of this motor the heads(and the intake) are going to limit the powerband to about 4500rpm so even the 35-320-8 gives you a lot of room to grow. You should see just about 300 ponies with this combo but add the heads and intake this motor should...

A cast 393 or 408 stroker rotating assembly and RHS iron heads, with the basic block reconditioning and an appropriate intake and cam you would have a 400hp/500tq beast for about $3500.

I don't see how.. nothing related to the 4x4 system goes through the computer.As for a cam I'd suggest the Comp 35-320-8, you can ignore every site that suggests this cam produces 0.544" lift and that 1.7 rockers are required because neither is true, this is the exact same grind as the Comp...

Yeah.. but then he needs to swap transmission too. So much for being cheap or easy.

Absolutely. Not in the least. Yes and no, the right way to utilize them would be with a tuner but you could also utilize a MAF meter that is scaled for these larger squirters.. though that really only works as intended at WOT. IMO neither is gong to be needed here, once the computer has had...

If you're keeping the stock EFI system you have no choice but to keep the stock 19lb injectors.. the computer simply can't adapt to anything else. But 300hp is easy enough because the computer will push them well beyond 80% dutycycle if necessary.. though obviously you don't want them at 100%...

Hows the fuel milage? Have a look at the fill tubes to see if gas is running down them, if you do see this it's indicating that you have the fuel transfer problem where gas is returned to the other tank while you drive, and if the other tank is already full it will simply overflow out the filler...

Yeah.. you're gonna have to buy a set for a '94 or '95 F350 4x4 with a 5.8 because it's the EXACT same truck as yours. The reason the parts stores don't list anything for your '96 is because they didn't get the memo from the US government that Ford trucks over 8500lb GVWR would continue...

What tube are you referring to, the one that goes to the cats?The whole air injection system is superficial to engine operation, it's only purpose is to provide fresh air to the cats to help them burn off excess hydrocarbons at cold start.. that's it. As a result you can completely eliminate...

Workin hard and keepin busy.. and workin on old Ford trucks. My steed now has all new brakes, all the lines replaced and all new front rotors and pads.. and it stops much better. I think the front flex lines were seriously plugged up because before it didn't seem to matter how hard I stomped on...

Wassup gents... it's been a while. The reason the Raptor is so slow is because it weighs 6000lbs and your 2wd reg cab isn't much more than 4000lbs, it takes a lot more than 326hp to make up for that weight disadvantage.

If they're aluminum like the add suggests they aren't from an Explorer they would be aftermarket, but that makes them an even bigger steal because those GT40 heads outperform the iron GT40s.However I suspect they seller is mistaken and the heads are actually iron.

I'm late to the discussion but I do have something to add. While the 5.8 block is plenty strong the stock crank and con rods in particular are relatively weak and will not tolerate high rpms(over 5500) or high boost pressures(10-15psi).. ARP rod bolts or not. I guess I'm also suggesting that you...

A completely stock 5.8EFI with nothing more than a cam change and longtubes will make 275hp and close to 400tq, and the kicker is that combo can get upwards of 18mpg on the highway if the rest of the powertrain(trans, axle gearing, tire size) is optomized for it. The 460 can beat those power...

Stock heads so it's not making any more than 275hp at the crank.. sorry. The stock TB is not a choke point however(equavelent to a 75mm single).. and the whole 5.0 truck intake including TB is good for upwards of 400hp.