351 wind. Build any pointers

[Fordfreack]

Well ur right on a maf im thinking like my twin turbo idi dont ever drive it drive it to the pulls run it then drive it home. The truck isnt my dailey driver so, but instead of having to tune it evertime I drive the maf setting will end that and let the computer do the work but the truck will have its days hooked to a sled so I wanna keep the full tuneability. Im not really working on a budget thats y I work 80 100 hrs a week

 

[5.0Flareside]

He said he already had pistons.

no he had plans for em...

 

[dragogt]

why would you go with that kit instead?

Dish pistons.. IIRC they can act like a bigger engine; IE more power (air and fuel)...

 

[Truckin4life]

Dunno how much boost you plant on running, but i would double think boring and boosting. Being as you need to go forged anyway, might as well get a stroker crank, get some low end grunt to get you into the boost a bit quicker. But removing strength from your cylinder walls then compounding the stress levels the cylinder walls endure seems a bit foolish to me. Especially on a stock block. Start with a Dart block if you wanna bore and boost.

 

[Fordfreack]

Im not looking for an *** tone of bost just yet 10lbs for now max15. And im not sure with pistons just yet deff no flat tops to high compesion any way deff a forged set orig though .deep dishes lower compresion but then were talking supercharger but dont wanna go that rought. Not really to sure about a procharger never worked with them. But foged .40s will be fine. I have to do at least a 30 over bore scratch to bad to just hone. My matto is if It brakes go bigger. So a block prolly isnt to far out and a strocker is next years prject for it. Just heads intake and a fully tuneable system

 

[Truckin4life]

Sounds like your making quick snap decisions.
" A fool is easily parted with his money" comes to mind.

Do it once, do it right.

 

[Fordfreack]

Whats the piont in having a job if u cant injoy life if I wanted t sit on my hands id be homelss


Actually having truble finding head studs dont think stock ones will hold up to mutch any ideas

 

[flareside_thunder]

ARP has studs for a 351W. You have a twin turbo IDI? Got pics?

 

[dragogt]

Im not looking for an *** tone of bost just yet 10lbs for now max15. And im not sure with pistons just yet deff no flat tops to high compesion any way deff a forged set orig though .deep dishes lower compresion but then were talking supercharger but dont wanna go that rought. Not really to sure about a procharger never worked with them. But foged .40s will be fine. I have to do at least a 30 over bore scratch to bad to just hone. My matto is if It brakes go bigger. So a block prolly isnt to far out and a strocker is next years prject for it. Just heads intake and a fully tuneable system

When you get ready take a look..

http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-liberator-short-blocks/

 

[Truckin4life]

So build your motor and when it gives up on life, and your out that poorly spent cash. Awesome, or do it right the first time, then put the money saved into your trans, cause thats gunna be the next thing to go. Then U-Joints will need an upgrade. What good is all that power if your only spinning one wheel?
What good is all that power if you cant keep both tires hooked up?
The quest for more power is 1. Never Ending.
2. Probably the most important, Its NOT CHEAP.
What money you dont BLOW now, will be used somewhere else. Trust me. Take your budget double it, and START there.
Or you could Put retirement money away, unless you wanna work until the day you die. Which ever.

 

[89PSD]

Dunno how much boost you plant on running, but i would double think boring and boosting. Being as you need to go forged anyway, might as well get a stroker crank, get some low end grunt to get you into the boost a bit quicker. But removing strength from your cylinder walls then compounding the stress levels the cylinder walls endure seems a bit foolish to me. Especially on a stock block. Start with a Dart block if you wanna bore and boost.

A stock 351 block can handle 700+hp, thats even 40 over with a 4" stroker crank. I would highly doubt that he is building a 700hp street efi truck... If your shooting for over 800, a 69-71 351w block is ok, but then you start to step up to the aftermarket blocks. Anything under 700hp spending 2k just on a block is just a waste of money, unless money isnt a problem.

Im not looking for an *** tone of bost just yet 10lbs for now max15. And im not sure with pistons just yet deff no flat tops to high compesion any way deff a forged set orig though .deep dishes lower compresion but then were talking supercharger but dont wanna go that rought. Not really to sure about a procharger never worked with them. But foged .40s will be fine. I have to do at least a 30 over bore scratch to bad to just hone. My matto is if It brakes go bigger. So a block prolly isnt to far out and a strocker is next years prject for it. Just heads intake and a fully tuneable system

Its a good choice to use studs over bolts. They clamp the head on much better then bolts will.
Deffently spend the money on heads, AFR, Trickflows. Heads make all your power. Dont cheap out on a cheap set of lower end edlebrocks heads... there not much better then stock. Trust me on the heads, steer clear of the lower end eddys, there cheap and a aftermarket head but wont be extracting the potential power A decent set of heads will yeild.

Another thing I would highly reccomend on doing is getting the rotating assembly balanced.Most local machine shops can do it for around $500 There not balanced decent enough from the factory, aslong as there within a certian spec, there installed. Once done if you "could" spin the motor to 10,000rpm and it would be placing the same forces on the block as if it was spinning 1000rpm from a factory motor. And every 1lb of inbalance taken off is like taking 10lbs off the atchuall total rotating weight .

If you wanted to build a cheap 351 stroker, you could build a 393. Uses stock rods, 302 pistons (just get larger bore), and a 3.75 aftermarket stroker crank.

For a cam I would look at the anderson cams(if your a roller motor). But it depends on what setup you plan on doing, Turbo,SC, or NA.

 

[89PSD]

The 1st purchase you should do is a good set of heads!!!I cant stress enough on how spending good money on heads will out perform those cheaper ones!!!!!
Spending 300$ on a TB is useless when you could spend that $300 to upgrade for a better set of heads... ,

If I were you, and the motor is in the truck, and you drive it daily I would for NOW i would skip building rebuilding the rotating assembly.. unless it needs it. But I would just pull the heads put the better ones on, change the cam, new gaskets, injectors, timing chain set,ect and you would be done in a weekend.
These heads
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51400015/
And a decent Cam and a cheapy set of long tube headers, Grab a carbite burr porting bit and port match the intake and all those will easy net you 350+hp all for around 2500.

 

[Truckin4life]

I went with the dart block cause he wanted turbo and a stroker.

I do fully agree with balancing and with heads!

 

[conanski]

I'm late to the discussion but I do have something to add. While the 5.8 block is plenty strong the stock crank and con rods in particular are relatively weak and will not tolerate high rpms(over 5500) or high boost pressures(10-15psi).. ARP rod bolts or not. I guess I'm also suggesting that you rebuild the bottom end right so you have a solid platform to build upon in the future, and that means a complete forged and balanced rotating assembly, otherwise you're just building a bomb with an unknown fuse.