One step fowards, two steps back..

[TexasRho83]

Just be careful when removing the old studs if you plan on re-using them. If you pound em too hard, you'll damage the threads and won't be able to throw a lug nut back on em.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Thats why I had to buy new ones.

 

[95F350XL]

Yea anything that sits needs new calips, rotors, pads and hoses, did that with my bronk, f150 and f350, and protege to come to think of it. 220k on the protege tho lol. Yea the rotors arnt that bad to do, if i take the rotors off, i plan on doing ball joints, and axle shaft u joints too, if they havent been done yet. I over do, at least I know its not gonna break while I have it.

 

[Fordzilla80]

Ouch... that ain't good.

I bet you will be replacing your brakes to, huh?

I'm gonna be replacing everything,so it's not much of a worry to me.My brakes still work.Barely.lol.

 

[countryboytn]

No theyre easy just pull the hub and rotor off and pound or press the studs out then get your new rotor and new studs and pound em back in.

How does the hub and rotor come off? We looked at it, but couldn't figure it out. (didn't spend that much time at all though, cause the rotors didn't look that bad. Figured we could replace them later if we need to)

Just be careful when removing the old studs if you plan on re-using them. If you pound em too hard, you'll damage the threads and won't be able to throw a lug nut back on em.

Already got a broke stud on the drivers side anyway, I assume from the guys who put the wheels and tires on it. My impact wrench wouldn't do anything at all to 'em. Ended up with a 1/2 inch ratchet and about a 3ft piece of pipe to break 'em loose.

I'm gonna be replacing everything,so it's not much of a worry to me.My brakes still work.Barely.lol.

Good idea. Brakes really isn't somewhere you wanna cut corners.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Ya need a haynes manual or Ford shop manual.
1. Take tire off.
2. Un do bolt on the caliper that holds the slide for the caliper.
3. Pull caliper and pads off rotor.
4. Undo allen head screws on lockout hubs.
5. Find the gap in the retaining ring inside the hub and pull it out ( ya need a couple small flat tip screwdrivers or scribes). Theres also a snap ring on the axle shaft.
6. Pull hub assembly out of hub. Along with the spring behind it.
7. Get the tool for the spindle nuts from Napa (do not try to beat em off with a hammer and screwdriver or youll need new spindle nuts) and take the outer one off.
8. Take the lock ring off of the second spindle nut.
9. Take second spindle nut off.
10. Slide the hub and brake assembly off the spindle.
11. Pop the seal out of the back side of the hub to get at the inner wheel bearing.
12. Clean old grease out of bearings and hubusing either gas and a cleanin brush or a solvent tank.
13. Check bearing races for scoring and nicks. If bad get a brass drift punch and drive em out.
14. Usin a punch smaller than the flat part of your studs pound them out and the rotor will fall off. Id get 10 new studs (or 16 if ya have a 3/4 ton) so ya know theyll be good and new rotors.
15. Get some brake cleaner and clean the oil off they put on em for shippin.
16. Line the holes on the rotor and hub up and set your studs in the holes.
17. Usin a bigger punch pound the studs in gradually in a star pattern like ya do when ya tighten the lug nuts. Youll hear a differnt noise when they seat all the way.
18. If ya had to buy new bearing races set those inside the hub where they go and puond those in with your brass punch. They also make a differnt noise when theyre all the way in.
19. Put as much grease inside the hub between the two races as ya can.
20. Pack inner bearing and set in in the hub.
21. Put new seal in the back side of the hub with a rubber mallet or a piece of wood.
22. Grease spindle and put the hub on the spindle.
23. Pack outer wheel bearing and put it as far in the hub as ya can.
24. Get the inner spindle nut (the one with the little nub on the front) thread on the spindle very carefully by hand so it dont cross thread with the little nub facin out.
25. Tighten inner spindle nut as tight as ya can then back it off again a 1/4 of a turn (dont use a pipe cause youll tighten it too much).
26. Line the nub on the inside of the lock ring with the groove in the spindle If its worn replace it before ya put it on. (This part is tricky cause ya need to line up the little nub on the inner spindle nut with one of the holes on the ring). Youll probly have to take the ring back off and tighten the nut just a hair a few times.
27. If ya havent chucked the ratchet out of frustration. Get the outer spindle nut and thread it on the spindle. Theres no specific way it threads on just do it carefully so ya dont cross thread it.
28. Tighten the outer spindle nut down as tight as you can get it without a pipe and see if you can turn the rotor any if ya cant move it at all or if it barely moves then its too tight. If it has up and down play its too loose.
29. After ya have the nuts right put the spring back in with the small end towards ya.
30. Put the guts from your lockouts in the hub and line up the splines on the outside and the inside.
31. Put the outer ring back in the groove in the hub.
32. Put the snap ring on the axle shaft theres a groove in it youll have to reach behind the knuckle and push the shaft out toward ya or have somebody do that while ya put the snap ring on.
33. Get the outer part of the lockout and put it on then tighten the allen screws down in a cris cross pattern.
34. Get your caliper and pads (new or used) put the pads in the caliper and push the piston back inside the caliper.
35. Set caliper on rotor (dont buy thick pads with new rotors or it wont move).
36. Get the slider part and stick it under the rotor with the half moon cutout toward the back of the truck and on the inside of the wheel.
37. Hammer slider back into place untill the cut out lines up with the bolt hole in the caliper.
38. Put bolt back in caliper that holds the slider.
39. Put wheel back on and tighten lugnuts in a star pattern.

Might be a couple things I missed in there but ya should be able to figure it out and im sick of typin.

 

[countryboytn]

Wow, thanks for that. I'm saving that to my computer for future reference.

and I'v got manual (Chilton, I think?) but didn't look at it.

 

[Truckin4life]

If the smoke rolling was from heat, then i would for sure pull them wheel bearings and have a look at em, if it was from brake fluid getting on to the brakes, then you would be ok. But other wise, pull them bearings asap.

 

[countryboytn]

If the smoke rolling was from heat, then i would for sure pull them wheel bearings and have a look at em, if it was from brake fluid getting on to the brakes, then you would be ok. But other wise, pull them bearings asap.

It wasn't from brake fluid, it was from the calipers not releasing.

I'll see if I can get dad to help me check the wheel bearings this weekend.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Good I aint gonna type that much again.

 

[Truckin4life]

Pick up some Wheel Bearin grease before you start...
Is it 4wd?

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

They never made a 2wd Bronco. On the grease just get regular stuff not the synthetic crap. Synthetic is usually blue or red from what Ive seen.

 

[countryboytn]

Good I aint gonna type that much again.