Odd tranny trouble

[Hazzardousmat]

I'm going to call the local tranny shop and go from there....

 

[dustybumpers]

Make sure the plug on the passenger side of the transmission is plugged in tight. That will make it shift crazy if it is loose.

 

[Hazzardousmat]

Ok, I'll check that. Thanks

 

[Hazzardousmat]

Ok update. I took the truck to a local Tranny shop and the mechanic told me there was nothing wrong with the transmission. He said it was an engine miss. So I guess I'll change the plugs and wires. Change cap and rotor. Change the ignition coil even though it looks new. And hope one of those is my problem.

 

[Fellro]

A miss shouldn't shut it off...

 

[primetime]

A 95 F-series truck DOES have data stream. Data stream is the ability to see what each sensor is doing in real time. Providing you have a scan tool capable of interfacing. A Snap-On MT-2500 or Modus, if they have the proper updates, or your local Ford dealer should be able to do it.

I know this because in 2002 I worked at a shop that had a MT-2500 Snap-On that was updated to 2002, and I could plug in my 94 F-150 and see (and set) the timing, check the TPS, and a bunch of other cool stuff. Modus was the updated version that was on par with dealer stuff of the time and could do all kinds of cool stuff.

Have you checked the basics? Pull the SPOUT and check your base timing. Check your fuel pressure, it should be around 38-40 psi at idle. What is your TPS voltage at idle as checked with a digital volt ohm meter? I like to to see around .98 to .99 volts at idle, rising smoothly up to around 5 volts.

What about grounds? have those been checked? And I mean every one the ECM might have contact with.

And just to throw it out there, when the previously mentioned 94 made it`s last trip to Ohio, the little woman called me up and said, "the truck is acting stupid at 55 and 65 mph (speed limit, and she is a stickler) bucking, stuttering, but is fine at 70 (Michigans interstate speed). When she got back in the driveway the truck was locked in second gear and the codes indicated a converter clutch failure.

 

[Hazzardousmat]

If the plugs and wires dont do the trick I probably end up taking it to Ford and paying them what they want to diagnose it.

 

[primetime]

If the plugs and wires dont do the trick I probably end up taking it to Ford and paying them what they want to diagnose it.

Hasn`t that stuff already been replaced? Do you have (or have a access to) a volt/ohm meter? I forget the exact number, but plug wires are good if they ohm test less than either 500 or 1500 ohms per foot.

I`m just trowing out ideas.

 

[Hazzardousmat]

Yeah I got an ohm meter.
I have not changed the plugs and wires as I'm still waiting on the money. I'm on a fixed income and it really sucks.

 

[primetime]

Yeah I got an ohm meter.
I have not changed the plugs and wires as I'm still waiting on the money. I'm on a fixed income and it really sucks.

I couldn`t remember for sure if you had, thought I`d read in your thread that it had been done. Do what you can with what you got is my motto.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

I forget the exact number, but plug wires are good if they ohm test
less than either 500 or 1500 ohms per foot.

x2!

...and who cares what the number is just test 'em all and the
ones that don't test like most of the rest 'em, are bad. LOL

^^works for me.

BWD metal wire wrapped is the type I like best.

On my '75 got a copper-wire-ignition-wire from the coil to the cap.

You can test the spark plugs' resistances too.
They vary quite a bit (even when brand new) and are still good.

Alvin in AZ

 

[Hazzardousmat]

Its been awhile since I posted on this topic, sorry I have been away.
I replaced wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Didnt really solve my issue of the engine cutting out. I tried injector cleaner, and it didnt help either until I added a full bottle of Lucas Injector Cleaner, 10.00 in gas and ran the crap out of it.. Well it doesnt cut out anymore. Think it was a severely clogged injector. If it does it again, I may have to replace the set.....

Oh and the rotor had some rust on the contact point. Might have contributed to the issue.

 

[Hazzardousmat]

Well that didnt take care of the problem. The next day it was at it again.
Check engine light came back on and it started cutting out once more.... O2 Sensor was showing up so I replaced it. Still didnt take care of it. Then had a EGR Valve code and it tested good. However, the vacumme line going to it had cracks in it. Replaced the hose and that seems to take care of it. HOPEFULLY

 

[Hazzardousmat]

Well so much for that, withing a few miles it started again.
Replaced the MAP sensor, as it was showing bad and replaced it. Still no good.
A repeating code however was a 4X4 code that would sometimes show up.
I ordered a ECM/PCM online (Ford Dealership wanted 100.00 more for it) for 224.00 pre programed. Installed it and the problem went away. I drove it around town with speeds up to 55mph. Shifted just fine, a little hesitation on take off once but otherwise did great.
Hope this helps someone in the future. If your ECM/PCM had been replaced in the past, or if you dont know and you get a 4X4 code, its the computer...

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Thanks for following up. I was fighting transmission problems in my 1994, and I tried darn near everything, and when I finish putting it back together I'm trying a new ECU.

Ryan

 

[Workin' Rig]

Question...

Why is a 2wd computer even capable of throwing 4x4 codes?

 

[Fellro]

Likely because it had been swapped with one that was 4x4 programmed.