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i would stay clear of the gorilla tape, it always shrinks with heat of the sun and will never look good. I not sure how much it will cost to restore the dash but i would save or hit the junk yards or craigslist.
 
Carburetor Adjustments

Hey guys. My 352 has an Autolite 2 barrel carburetor on it. It looks new. I had to get a new shiny chrome air cleaner for it. The one that was on it I noticed was not fitting well. Not well at all. It was sucking raw air through about a 1/8" gap. it's not any more. I do have a question about adjusting the carb. Those two screws at the bottom of the carb, next to the intake? One on the left and one on the right with a spring behind them. Is there like standard of how many turns they should be turned out? Or, just set them where the engine runs smooth? Or, is it like way more complicated than I can imagine? Thanks
 

Beach66Bum

Moderator
Top Poster Of Month
Hi Dylan, as a base, turn them all the way in till they lightly seat, then turn each air/fuel screw out 2 1/2 turns.this will allow the engine to run and not stall. you can then turn them out a 1/8 at a time till you feel it is running smoothly and not starving for fuel under WOT. The best of course is to use a vacuum gauge to get the highest reading on the scale. If your carb is way out of adjustment, you will have to re set your timing as it ties in with the carb settings. It's easy to do, and you can always go a little richer with the air fuel and bump up the timing a few degrees to maximize performance. Have fun!! I always liked the fact of being able to adjust the engine on older carbed trucks.
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
Dylan,when your ready to paint...Give Maaco a look.check out the Black mustang in my gallery,That is A 500.00 Maaco paint job.I did all the body work and primered the car,gave it a final sanding to my liking,then took the car to them.I was very pleased with the results.the car turned out very respectable and i got alot of positive feed back. i am no body man either,but i do know the basics.I got the presidential package (higher gloss finish) if memory serves me well they have a step down from the presidential that costs less.
 
Timing and such

Hey Roy, thanks for the info. It should run gobs better when I get these turned out. Just out of curiosity earlier today when I put on my new breather. I took a screwdriver and turned them in (lightly) to see how far they were out. I knwe what they were but no idea whjat to do with them. They were out maybe 1 full turn, maybe. No wonder it's been kind of weak. This has got to be a big answer to that problem. Now, I know how to work a timing light. But I'm not sure where my engine times at, I'm not having much luck finding info on this motor.

But, what you are saying. Open these screws up and set the timing where the book would tell me? Then advance 2-3 more notches on the wheel? Do I understand correctly? Thanks Roy

Dylan

(I did just find that the manual calls for 6 degrees. But didn't find a specify if that is before or after TDC)


Hi Dylan, as a base, turn them all the way in till they lightly seat, then turn each air/fuel screw out 2 1/2 turns.this will allow the engine to run and not stall. you can then turn them out a 1/8 at a time till you feel it is running smoothly and not starving for fuel under WOT. The best of course is to use a vacuum gauge to get the highest reading on the scale. If your carb is way out of adjustment, you will have to re set your timing as it ties in with the carb settings. It's easy to do, and you can always go a little richer with the air fuel and bump up the timing a few degrees to maximize performance. Have fun!! I always liked the fact of being able to adjust the engine on older carbed trucks.
 
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I opened up the air'fuel screws as advised. I don't even have to touch the gas to start it anymore. I did have to actually choke it a little. I was trying to imaging how hard it would be to start in cold weather. But it's going to be fine. Here is a picture of my new breather. Mom said it was like 'putting a diamond on a toad'. She doesn't quite share my enthusiasm.

I'll have to borrow a timing light for the rest. After this will I need make any changes to the ignition point gap? Thanks

DSC00195.jpg



Dylan
 
Points and gaps and such

Yea, I know. I'm awful bothersome today. I know you guys are at work this time of day. I don't mean to be a lot of trouble, really I don't. I just get hung up on something and can't seem to leave it alone until I get it resolved. Catfish?

Look guys, I need to understand....When I mess with the timing? This also effects ignition point gap, correct? What about spark plug gap? Is that to be left alone? Oh, do I have my spark plug gapped right? I think they are at 40. I didn't mess with them. I just checked where someone else had them set. I need advise guys. I know what a book can tell me. I also know you guys often know a better way. Ignition point gap?Please give me a suggestion. What works best for you based on your experience. Especially after I mess with the timing? I don't have access to vacuum meters and dwell meters and such. I just don't. Wouldn't know how to use them anyway. Thanks greatly in advance for your replies. Anything you think will help Brutus to run at his best? I want to know about it. I know he isn't no hot rod or will I ever treat him as such. I worked to hard for him just to tear him up.

You know, I know why the former owner had the air/fuel screws out only a single turn. He thought that was saving him gas. Right? I think that's crap! I had much rather have my truck running right and let it have the fuel it needs to run right. You know, Rather than having it hard to start. Dieing at stop signs. No power in a hill. Basically embarrassing the crap out of me just because everything is screwed down so I might get another mile per gallon. Big frigging deal! I am very grateful for the info I get here. Brutus runs like he just got two extra cylinders added. I got to get him to the car wash and get his motor cleaned up. He deserves that. And that new breather he is wearing? Yea, he thinks he's really something with that new chrome breather.

Later my Fordly Brothers
 

Beach66Bum

Moderator
Top Poster Of Month
I opened up the air'fuel screws as advised. I don't even have to touch the gas to start it anymore. I did have to actually choke it a little. I was trying to imaging how hard it would be to start in cold weather. But it's going to be fine. Here is a picture of my new breather. Mom said it was like 'putting a diamond on a toad'. She doesn't quite share my enthusiasm.

I'll have to borrow a timing light for the rest. After this will I need make any changes to the ignition point gap? Thanks

DSC00195.jpg



Dylan

that looks great Dylan !YelloThumbUp
 

Beach66Bum

Moderator
Top Poster Of Month
Hi again, so first, timing is set BTDC. If factory is 6* then you should be fine to go to 8* without it knocking and pinging. If it does, go to 7* etc. Spark plug gap is important in that with the correct gap , you get the best possible spark to burn the fuel. You can play around with the gap and get different results, like changes in bottom end or top end, but it's not worth the small gain and you'll be getting new plugs sooner, and can make the engine knock. So, set them at factory specs, usually new plugs now a days are pre gapped, but check them anyway. Points and dwell, well, set the point gap to specs, you will need a feeler gauge, and dwell, well unless someone really messed with the distributor, I have never, and I know I will get a blast, bothered. As for trying to save gas by having the air/fuel screws in that far, you are causing the engine to run really lean which is a bad thing!! Glad it's all coming together Dylan :)
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Also check the condition of the points. If there is a lot of corrosion or pock marks on the point surfaces, they will need to be replaced. Make sure you check the point gap at their maximum opening point on the ridge of the distributor shaft. If you replace the points, replace the condenser also. This is just basic stuff from what I remember 30 some years ago.
 

Beach66Bum

Moderator
Top Poster Of Month
Also check the condition of the points. If there is a lot of corrosion or pock marks on the point surfaces, they will need to be replaced. Make sure you check the point gap at their maximum opening point on the ridge of the distributor shaft. If you replace the points, replace the condenser also. This is just basic stuff from what I remember 30 some years ago.

Thanks Doug!! :wavey: Had to think back too, been a while since I had a points ignition. Don't miss it, remember when the points would bounce when you got up high in the rpm's
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Dylan, You might take a look at the manual that Duncan has posted for the Gen 5 ford trucks. There is some good info in there for ignition systems, Vol 2, Group 22.
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
Dylan,Another tip from an "Old guy"..lol Plug gaps were .35 ( thousands) for new plug installation always check the gaps before installation (do not assume they are pre set).Point gaps between .16-.18 (thousands)using a Feeler guage.If your using a Dwell meter set them at 30 degrees of dwell (Most GM Vehicles were set by dwell back then from their design,not so much on Ford but it can be done,it is more involved tho) Roy is correct on the timing and Carb adjustments.But setting the timing is the final procedure once everything else is set to specs.Timing can Change if it is set before installation of plugs and points along with Carb. adjustments.
 
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