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My poor truck

My poor truck left me stranded on the side of the road for the first time in 9 years of ownership.

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Was almost late for work too. It came home on a roll back.

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Cant say for sure whats happened. But first symptoms i noticed today was she started struggling to go up even small hills. Kicked down a gear to climb a small hill. I killed the cruise and took over the power to feel what was going on. Next hill it struggled even more. Losing speed the whole time. I checked mirrors for smoke. None. Pass sides temp gauge is spiking to 1200* driver side was at 600* and falling. Next thing i knew engine died completely and im coasting to the side of the road.

My only guess atm is somethings happened to the high pressure oil rail on the driverside. But wont know for sure till i can tear into it.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
Had that happen with my 6.9, caught it early enough I was able to hightail it to a parts store - filter plugged up. Changed it right there in the parking lot. I was cruising on the interstate and was lucky enough to know where I could get to a parts store and limped it in.
 
If its what i think it is i doubt it. If its popped the oil rail off then that means all the screw holes stripped outta the rocker box it bolts too.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
I’ve worked on 6.0’s since they came out never had a oil rail come out (suppose it’s possible if someone had been in the and left the bolts loose) did you happen to have any codes pulled?
 
tried to figure it out today... but was kinda a no go... thought the oil rail popped off but its still firmly on there... put it back together but changed the valve cover gasket again since i had a spare one... dunno for sure if that was the source of the leak but my only guess... oil in the pan was far enough down that it wasnt on the dipstick anymore... since i had the tube out i dipped the crank case directly and still seemed to have 4" of oil in the bottom... not sure what that equates to quart wise in there... oil has a greenish tint to it.. but not sure if thats just an in between clean and dirty state for this thing or not... never checked it between changes... always looked clean when i put it in and black when i took it out lol... looked greenish to me... not really milky either like it was getting water in it...gonna change the oil before i try to crank it over again since its so low.. but didnt have a new filter or enough oil to do a full change... dont really want to put fresh oil onto what looks like maybe contaminated oil... when i get that done ill see what happens when i put the computer on it...
 
I’ve worked on 6.0’s since they came out never had a oil rail come out (suppose it’s possible if someone had been in the and left the bolts loose) did you happen to have any codes pulled?

I was worried it was the case since i had to helicoil a couple of the threads last time it was out. But it was still in there firm. Specially when i had one side (from my pyro gauges) showing doing everything it could to keep running the other side went stone cold.

Havent pulled the codes yet. Thats my next thing to put the IDS on it. After i change the oil.
 
Any update on the truck

not much of one tbh... today was my first day off to play with the truck some... they had me scheduled to work 7 days straight...

5 gal oil.jpg

first thing to do was to find oil... took me forever to find some... and then it was only in a 5 gal bucket :waa: $106 after taxes...

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still getting fuel pressure...it was definitely cold this morning... thats the first time ive ever seen the EGT gauges read less than 32* Left bank. Turbo and right bank.. then the transmission temp... it still wouldnt crank even with the new oil in it.. when i peeked at the ipr its pegging at 84% so i know its trying.. and did get the low pressure guage to read so i know its doing its job... unfortunately i had to break out the computer...


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computer diagnostics 2.jpg


im sure you recognize this program Dave....

trouble codes.jpg

only codes i could find in the truck...

cranking test.jpg


cyl #7 is only 1% lower on the cranking test than the others.. so doesnt sound like its a compression issue unless i break out the actual compression tester... by time i found the cranking test the batteries were starting to get weak.. have the charger on it now to bring them back up...

think the low contribution code from 4 is coming from 3... because when i ran the buzz test 3 is not cycling... so looks like i need to replace another injector... had 2 go before when i had the engine apart... and 3 was ticking then.. now its not.. so thats happened recently... when i had to replace the 2 before it was #4 & 8..


I always hear about stitchin (or how ever its spelled) is that what happens with that?? it wont tick when cold?? because when ive had the engine running the pass side never showed any signs of it missing a cylinder on that side...
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Do a key on engine off test and tell me what codes come up if any or if there are any. Don’t currently worry about the 1% on the cylinder contribution. When the ipr is at 85% what is the icp pressure reading? Also what is the icp reading with just the key on not cranking. Also check sync and ficm sync pids while cranking look at ficm power pids.
 
Do a key on engine off test and tell me what codes come up if any or if there are any. Don’t currently worry about the 1% on the cylinder contribution. When the ipr is at 85% what is the icp pressure reading? Also what is the icp reading with just the key on not cranking. Also check sync and ficm sync pids while cranking look at ficm power pids.

Tbh wasnt worried about the 1% on that one. I just ran it for funs and giggles.

When i was watching the logic side it was reading 11.8 which is about what i get from the truck voltage till the gpr kicks out after its running a bit. Then the trucks voltage sits between 12.8-13.4. (Yes i still have the factory level alt) wasnt watching the main side. Normally i have the oil and water temp up on the sg2. But switched the one to the ipr when i started to diagnose. Never thought about the icp at the time.
 
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Hope that helps. Not seeing anything else besides the same dtc's i had before. Dunno what the syc supposed to read. While cranking but stayed 0. Icp never came up either. It was 46* (windchill put it in the 30s.) at the time.

Upside injector #3 responded to the injector test this time.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
View attachment 35191View attachment 35192

Hope that helps. Not seeing anything else besides the same dtc's i had before. Dunno what the syc supposed to read. While cranking but stayed 0. Icp never came up either. It was 46* (windchill put it in the 30s.) at the time.

Upside injector #3 responded to the injector test this time.
I was just looking to see if any codes would show up on demand instead of memory.

Sync and ficm sync should read yes I believe while cranking. Icp should hit 500psi to start. The low icp will give the p2291. If you can’t make 500 psi while cranking there’s most likely a leak in the system or the ipr came apart.
 
I was just looking to see if any codes would show up on demand instead of memory.

Sync and ficm sync should read yes I believe while cranking. Icp should hit 500psi to start. The low icp will give the p2291. If you can’t make 500 psi while cranking there’s most likely a leak in the system or the ipr came apart.
I have a feeling i gotta pull the driver side back apart and take the oil rail off. Dont have the tools to do the air tests.


Icp and ipr are not easy to get to on my model year (under turbo as you know). Wondering if instead of testing through the icp port if i get the tools can i test through the oil rails themselves?? I remember seeing small port plugs in the oil rails but dunno how hard theyd be to get out. Nor know if the sizes are the same as the icp sensor.
 
Is there a way to command the IPR closed through the IDS software?? Heard to do pressure tests you had to either with a scantool or another tool that plugged right into the ipr itself.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Is there a way to command the IPR closed through the IDS software?? Heard to do pressure tests you had to either with a scantool or another tool that plugged right into the ipr itself.
You can go into the data logger select the ipr pid. Click the hashtag, the button right under it then the arrow button will turn it on and off.

Any pid with a hashtag next to its name you are able to command.
 
You can go into the data logger select the ipr pid. Click the hashtag, the button right under it then the arrow button will turn it on and off.

Any pid with a hashtag next to its name you are able to command.
Sweet. Im still learning my way around that thing. Only figured out how to do a couple things with it so far.

Also Building me a "poor mans" air leak tester. All the ones ive found online are like $150-250. Found a short air hose at harborfreight for like $3 and a ball valve for another $3. Now i just need the adapter to screw into the icp port which i found for $9 on amazon. So ill have an air tester for $20 instead of them over priced things.

It wont hurt the trucks computer if i have the ficm and things undone to command the ipr?? If it would i found this thing for like $49
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6764-Inj...t=&hvlocphy=9009705&hvtargid=pla-569705443813
 
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Just need one more piece.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Sweet. Im still learning my way around that thing. Only figured out how to do a couple things with it so far.

Also Building me a "poor mans" air leak tester. All the ones ive found online are like $150-250. Found a short air hose at harborfreight for like $3 and a ball valve for another $3. Now i just need the adapter to screw into the icp port which i found for $9 on amazon. So ill have an air tester for $20 instead of them over priced things.

It wont hurt the trucks computer if i have the ficm and things undone to command the ipr?? If it would i found this thing for like $49
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6764-Inj...t=&hvlocphy=9009705&hvtargid=pla-569705443813

You should be fine. Don’t buy that. I have a a ipr connector and just hook it to battery power. I think you can buy the connector at napa.
 
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