My first engine pull/rebuild - 1994 351w

[5.0Flareside]

.030 is standard overbore for windsors and is easy to find pistons for. .010 or. 020 is tough to find pistons.

Windsors can go up to. 060

.040 is limit IMO for reliability

 

[DNFXDLI]

Cool Ryan..you should give Tim Meyer a call and spend a few minutes on the phone with him

 

[Fellro]

I can find .020 easy enough...
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=6338

I have dealt with Northern a lot over he years, never a problem, all is quality stuff.

 

[LEB Ben]

.030 is standard overbore for windsors and is easy to find pistons for. .010 or. 020 is tough to find pistons.

Windsors can go up to. 060

.040 is limit IMO for reliability

Yeah I know. I also seem to remember him saying he wasn't that interested in a whole lotta boring. IMO, don't take unnecessary material if it doesn't need it. I'd rather have the potential to get 3-4 rebuilds out of an engine than 1 or 2.

 

[kiwi f150]

I can find .020 easy enough...
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=6338

I have dealt with Northern a lot over he years, never a problem, all is quality stuff.

'

I've found Northern to be excellent too Roger - no problem shipping parts out here and normally half what i would have had to pay here as well

Yeah I know. I also seem to remember him saying he wasn't that interested in a whole lotta boring. IMO, don't take unnecessary material if it doesn't need it. I'd rather have the potential to get 3-4 rebuilds out of an engine than 1 or 2.

X2 on that Ben

 

[Truckin4life]

I suspect a hone.

 

[Truckin4life]

Hone ring job. Boom. Done.

 

[fatherdoug]

Do I see some green around the intake on the passenger's side?

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Which begs the question...you just gonna hone...or go .020 over???

I'll let the pros make that decision. I prefer a bore so I know everything is juuuust right. As little as I can take, because I agree - the less material I take away, the better.

Ryan

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Cool Ryan..you should give Tim Meyer a call and spend a few minutes on the phone with him

I've seen his name thrown around but I am pretty unfamiliar with him. Didn't he register here a few months back?

Is he into tuning?

Ryan

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Do I see some green around the intake on the passenger's side?

I think so, that's why that bolt broke off so easily. The rust made it incredibly weak.

Ryan

 

[73F100Shortbed]

I'll let the pros make that decision.

That would be my thought as well. If it can just be honed though that would be my choice.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I have a feeling these cylinder walls are out of round, which is why I'm hesitant to just hone it. That could make the problem even worse. The motor has 236,000 miles on it.

I was researching more mass air flow stuff. Check this out.

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/efi-harness/products/truck-sd-to-maf-harness

It's a harness that claims will work for a Speed Density to MAF conversion. I'm no expert but it doesn't seem that easy. Here's the way I see it, with the limited knowledge I have...

I need a MAF computer, a MAF wire harness, and the MAF intake sensor.

I assume this harness will plug into my current wiring harness connector near the computer, I'd just be swapping out wires.

I really can't figure this out. Electricity is magic.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

When I get home @330 ill post some stuff. Just to hard to do.it on phone

 

[O'Rattlecan]

That would be helpful.

In a perfect world, I would retain OBD I diagnostic systems, keep my E4OD transmission (by using a computer from a 1995 F150 351 E4OD), and get the MAF working.

Ryan

 

[Ridgerunner]

More information on a maf conversion would be helpful.

 

[5.0Flareside]

Easiest way to do a conversion. find a matching computer, COMPLETE wiring harness, MAF sensor and intake tubes.. You may have to cut and splice some.

That Kit you posted, is something you can get from a 302 MAF truck or Mustang pretty simply. for next to nothing.

get wiring diagrams for the SD and MAF.. compare.. shouldnt be much change... but double check..

as i havent done it to my trucks, but i've help a couple buddies on theirs.


Hone vs. Bore... Just bore it .030 over. its a standard overbore size for pistons on the 351W..

if you hone it. the cyl won't be perfectly round. plain and simple. Honing is a "cheap out on it" practice.

if they cyl isnt perfectly round, your rings won't make complete contact with the cyl walls.. = less compression= less power. Not alot but does make a difference. As Far as the arguement "get as many rebuilds as you can out of a block" WHY? the 351W blocks are SO plentiful you can get them for dirt! and besides, the only thing really wanted bout your block is its already roller cam.


MAF swap is the way to go. I wish i had done it with the old Flareside.. it needed bad.. but i also BADLY needed it back on the road. didnt have the time to invest in figuring all this out.

but since then i've done ALOT of reading. The nicest thing for me is i have a AOD. NO COMPUTER CONTROL!!!

that will be your biggest hurdle is finding a ecu for a MAF truck with E4OD. It will be tough.


I'm gonna spend some time tonight if i can compiling some links for ya and information.

I'll repeat this time and time again... .030 overbore, MAF swap.... is the ONLY way to go. I made a mistake not going MAF on my truck. PLEASE don't do the same. It's not a hard thing to do to convert. plenty of idiots have done it!!!

 

[SuperCab]

I disagree on going .030 out on the block...

With that many miles on it it will be out of round. you may only need to go .010 or .020 out to correct it. in which case .030 is unnecesary and does not gain you anything.

On the other hand, it the block is in bad shape, you may have to go more than .030 to correct the out of round...

Your machinist will know.

On the other hand, if the oil was changed regularly and a wad of other variables all fall into place, you may be fine just honing it out. But not likely.

For future reference though, honing rather than boring will save you a butt ton of cash in a budget build. It will, indeed, be a loose build, but I've rebuilt small block chevs for $200 and they never once see the machine shop. good for another 200,000 miles? no, probably 50,000. but for $200 how can you go wrong?

It's all about what you want for an end product. You get what you pay for.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I'm not worried about how much I'm going to over bore. I'm just going to let them determine the minimum I can get away with.

I want to do the MAF swap, but I'm struggling with whether I should do it as I put it all together, or after I reassemble. The plus side is that I know everything works right now with speed density. I should probably get it back together & working that way. On the flip side, it would be better to get it right the first time, but when I do this MAF swap, I know I'm going to screw stuff up.

Also, it's just not that easy for me to find parts. There are very few junkyards around here. I've never even been to one that is a pull-it-yourself style.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

I'm not worried about how much I'm going to over bore. I'm just going to let them determine the minimum I can get away with.

I want to do the MAF swap, but I'm struggling with whether I should do it as I put it all together, or after I reassemble. The plus side is that I know everything works right now with speed density. I should probably get it back together & working that way. On the flip side, it would be better to get it right the first time, but when I do this MAF swap, I know I'm going to screw stuff up.

Also, it's just not that easy for me to find parts. There are very few junkyards around here. I've never even been to one that is a pull-it-yourself style.

Ryan

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