marciawillie

[marciawillie]

Hi everyone, Glad to be here; i own a gen 7 84 f250 4X4 with a 6.9 diesel.. it's been a long road for my old girl, but she's almost there. we're operating on a shoestring budget so it's been a little fixing here and there. Looks like the last hurdle is a wiring issue with turn signals and brake and tail-lights. you might not hear alot from me for awhile, i'm not real computer savvy, but i'll be lurking in the background doing alot of reading.. have enjoyed what i've seen and read so far. I'll be looking forward to seeing more!
Marciawillie

 

[DNFXDLI]

Welcome to the site!...post up some pics of your truck when you can!

 

[SuperCab]

Welcome to FTF!

 

[smokey]

Welcome to FTF

 

[Beach66Bum]

Welcome to FTF

 

[kiwi f150]

welcome to ftf - hope you can get some pics up

 

[marciawillie]

Thanks for the welcomes, Guys.. was checking the gen7 wiring diagrams, and from what's on my truck and the schmatics, i'm wondering if the wiring is different on the trucks with the 6.9 diesels, nothing seems to match. everything seemed to be working pretty well, except the left turn indicator on the dash would stay on in the dash when the headlights were on, and the left signal took a long time to start blinking.. I got the fuel problem straightened out, and now have no tail-lights when the headlights are on, no brake or turn signals either.and yes, all fuses have been checked.. i replaced the headlight switch, as i've had that problem before, losing all tail-lights when the headlights were on.. looking at the turn-signal switch, but it's integrated with the horn, cruise control, etc.. when looking at the schematics in any of the books while trying to figure out the fuel problem late last year I noticed that the color codes do not match my truck.. Anyone got any suggestions or have been thru this problem before? Thanks for any help Y'all can give me.. p.s. i'm about to try pricing a used steering column..

 

[marciawillie]

Thanks for the welcomes, Guys.. was checking the gen7 wiring diagrams, and from what's on my truck and the schmatics, i'm wondering if the wiring is different on the trucks with the 6.9 diesels, nothing seems to match. everything seemed to be working pretty well, except the left turn indicator on the dash would stay on in the dash when the headlights were on, and the left signal took a long time to start blinking.. I got the fuel problem straightened out, and now have no tail-lights when the headlights are on, no brake or turn signals either.and yes, all fuses have been checked.. i replaced the headlight switch, as i've had that problem before, losing all tail-lights when the headlights were on.. looking at the turn-signal switch, but it's integrated with the horn, cruise control, etc.. when looking at the schematics in any of the books while trying to figure out the fuel problem late last year I noticed that the color codes do not match my truck.. Anyone got any suggestions or have been thru this problem before? Thanks for any help Y'all can give me.. p.s. i'm about to try pricing a used steering column..

 

[dustybumpers]

You have a blown bulb, and the filiment is sitting accross the turn light filiment on the left side, OR
You have a trailer wire "addition" on the back that some "thoughtfull
previous owner "cobbeled " in.
Either repair is fairly straight forward.

Welcome to the site!

 

[Fellro]

Wiring is the same on the diesels as the gas. I fought a ground problem for the tail lights on my 86 for a while, then made a new ground and fixed the issue.

I know well the headlight issue you refer. It comes from too much load when being hooked up to a trailer. The best way to deal with that is of course to fix the plug at the light, but then to also have a relay power the trailer lights. There is one supplied on some of the trucks by Ford, but the hookup is a little tricky sometimes. One of our 84's smoked the wire at the switch too, so I got it hooked up through the relay. No more issues. I did that with the 86 as well.

 

[marciawillie]

Thanks, Dustybumpers and Fellro, Your advice is spot-on.. got rid of the stupid trailor light plug; they had put it in with those stupid clamp-connecters, and there was all sorts of green weenie in there.. after 12 butt-connectors, a bunch of shrink tubing and about 6 feet of wire spliced in i have tail-lights again.. I do my own work too, tho i'm getting old and tired of wrenching on stuff all the time; i don't seem to mind it so much if it's something i want to do, at my leisure.. i hate it when i HAVE to do it, as this one is my daily driver i HAVE to alot.. but as usual, this is another one i've brought back from near death.. won't be parting with this one any time soon..


If it Ain't a Ford it Ain't a Truck...

 

[dustybumpers]

Glad to help!

 

[marciawillie]

Hey Guys, back again.. we got the lights figured out for the most part; drove it 18 miles and she just shut down on me; i had nothing.. back to have it trucked home.. again... we found a broken ground, fixed that; still wouldn't start.. tested the injection pump fuel shut-off solonoid, got .24 volts... i tried to look up the part on line, couldn't find it anywhere.. any ideas? it's my farm truck and every day driver (when i can keep it running).. stuck now needing to go get hay and straw before all my critters starve.. HELP!!! PLEASE!!! and Thanks for all your help so far, Y'all are good!

 

[Fellro]

I can't answer the why of it, but I have had more than one occasion that the connection between the ignition switch and the injection pump will just drop. I run a jumper form the battery to the injection pump, and it opens the valve and fires right up. This has happened multiple times on multiple trucks, so it baffles me as to why exactly it does it. It will out of the blue show up, then just disappear.

 

[marciawillie]

Thanks Fellro, gonna try your idea.. thinking maybe it might be a worn out ignition switch.. will know more tomorrow, as it's now dark and we've lost yet another day.. will let You know what we find out..

 

[Fellro]

The good thing is, these motors will run with just one wire. Just gotta make sure that wire supplies power...

 

[marciawillie]

k guys, i'm very confused and flustered right now.. went to look up wiring diagrams, got to the point of opening the link, but cant seem to get to page nine.. tried to follow your simple directions, but something went amiss somewhere.. trying to bring up the wiring diagram for the glowplug system, like i said; i'm not very computer savvy.. oh and by the way, replaced the ignition switch.. something happened when the ignition switch went, at least i think that's what happened, it smelled of burnt bakolite and everything on it was loose.. anyone have any ideas??? thanks..

 

[Fellro]

The glow plugs won't affect the injection pump. Big wire at the top of the injection pump is the one for turning the fuel on and off, it is the one you need to power. You should hear a faint click when it is powered/turned off from power.

http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...ahoo.com&hsimp=yhs-fullyhosted_003&hspart=iry

 

[marciawillie]

i have replaced ing. switch on this 84 f-250 6.9 diesel and still only have 0.22 volts reading on the multi-meter when i try to start it, and no start.

 

[Fellro]

Been there, which is why I suggested the direct wire. It also helps validate that it is simply a power supply issue. My 86 and my old man's 84's have all pulled that trick at some point. It seems to resolve itself later after having done the bypass. That is why I said I haven't figured out what the heck is going on when it does it. You also don't have to be cranking for the fuel solenoid to have power, only need the key in run. Be sure the wire you are messing with is the heavy red one as well, the other that goes to the top of the injection pump is for fast idle.