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maf, ever replaced one?

A_G

wuh?
3,188
74
Tulsa, Ok
SO my lovely mass air sensor is going out. err it probably already **** out.
Yall should try driving on a busted sensor its awesome.

Anyways, when you go down to the parts house the part the pull up comes up with the aluminum housing and what not included. But is it included, or do i gotta drille out that rivet where the top screw would be.


Thanks,
Anthony
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,070
651
California
Looks to me like the part includes the metal housing:

getimage.php


I was just looking at mine a couple days ago and noticing that the plastic sensor is riveted to the house and also bolted on with a security torx bolt. It looks like Ford didn't mean for the two pieces to be separated.
 
Last edited:

KdPate

After Hours Garage
Mine just has the two tamper-proof torx bits but I'm using one from a 94-95 Mustang.....
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,070
651
California
Even still, I think the metal housing has some sensor related components in it that you'll want to replace in order to bring the system back to working condition so you'd be shooting yourself in the foot by trying to only replace the plastic part.
 

Lost

PA Chapter leader
3,288
33
central PA
They come apart easy ...I have fixed before

But I have 3 on shelf on waiting .
 

A_G

wuh?
3,188
74
Tulsa, Ok
i have rivet, and the screw, then two torx (the stupid tamper proof ones ) in the housing.

you know i have a t-20 torx but not the tamper proof with the hole in the center.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
The rivets hold the sensor halves together, the screws hold the entire assembly into the air tube. Just remove the screws.
 

Old_Paint

Old guy with old cars
225
29
Alabama
Umm, if a new one comes with venturi and all, why not just put the whole thing in? Call me kooky, but that looks like the easiest option.
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
you know i have a t-20 torx but not the tamper proof with the hole in the center.

They sell "security" Torx bits, or what I did on my Ranger was use a Dremel to "slot" the top of the screw enough to remove it with a flat bladed screw driver, and replace the screws with normal socket-head (or button-head? can't remember if it matters) screws.

Pain in the butt, but it worked.
 

A_G

wuh?
3,188
74
Tulsa, Ok
yes it does come with the body, took me all of 5 mins to replace, it had power i havent felt since the first year i owned it. so of course i have no idea of what my mileage is now, because i spent all day, romping on it...LOL

Anyways, still got a spudder, but only at the bottom of the tank, seems to only spudder now right before the red. so im going to replace the filter and see what happens.

There is only one filter right? the one near the front tank, between it and the frame rail.
 
technically theres 2 really... 1 in line on the fuel lines.. and one on the bottom of the fuel pump itself... least thats how the electronic ones are... if yours are mechanical might just be the one... ive never had to drop a tank on anything with a mechanical pump before...
 
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