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Insufficient EGR Flow

95 F150 5.8L 249k

CEL comes on after driving a little around 30mph. Truck runs a little rough and pings under load. I replaced the EGR valve less than 8k ago and took the throttle body off and cleaned it. Where is the likely culprit? Vacuum leak? Intake manifold?
 
Ok. Sucked on the egr valve and couldn't get the engine to get anywhere near stalling. I checked the lower vacuum hose on the solenoid and have plenty of vacuum. I replaced the valve last October (when I got this code last time). So I'm assuming clogged intake manifold, is this doable for average mechanic skills?
 

dustybumpers

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did you check the codes first?
 

dustybumpers

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is the vacuum can over on the fender on your truck metal, or plastic? ( metal one looks like a big soup can)
 

dustybumpers

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The reason I ask this, the metal cans rusted out on the bottom, and gave a 332 code.
 

dustybumpers

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No problem
Another thing to check is that the sensor on the top is making good contact with the rod coming from the diagram on the egr
Sometimes I stick a little vacuum cap on the end of the rod to "trick" it into talking to the computer.
Things wear, and that is one part that gets overlooked
 
Looks like I have a big plastic one. However, that green vacuum line is breaking every place that I touch it, just broke at the solenoid. I want to replace it, but how does anyone ever reach it all the way behind the engine?!
 

dustybumpers

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Best thing to do is just drop in a whole new one and leave the old one sit there.
I usually re-route them around the top, where the heat don't get to them
They don't need to be nylon, they can be rubber, as long as they fit tight on the fittings

You may want to check the black ones, and the red ones too

Black is ported, red is vacuum all the time, green is EGR

White, blue, and yellow are heat

Glad you found your problem
 
Well I thought I did. Just saw that the egr pipe below the valve looks cracked at the coiling spot. I HATE fords stupid egr design and I'm going to hate getting this off.
 
So my truck is from California and has a special tubing to plug into the sensor. Can I put in a non-California tube and do away with all this?

Btw can't even break off the lower nut below the elbow in the tubing. I don't know how anyone can.
 

dustybumpers

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Having never had a cali truck, I can't answer that one. I would assume so......

Heat... Lotsa heat.

Hopefully a propane torch will get-r-done, but I usually use an oxy /acetylene set up
Heat the nut, then loosen it a thread or so with a wrench. More heat, loosen some more.

Be careful, the wench gets HOT, and will burn you.


Not sure which tube you need, Rock auto has both



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w/o California Emissions

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STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AT201 {#E8TZ9D477A, F0TZ9D477A} Number of Outlets: 2; Mounting Style: Screw-on

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$34.79
 

dustybumpers

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Yeah, you have the egr switch too.

I would replace it at the same time, I didn't replace the one on my Explorer, and it caused me a headache later on.


STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS VP8T {#VP10T} T-Series; Pin Terminals; Terminal Gender: Male; Number of Terminals: 3;Number of Hose Connectors: 2; Hose Size - Inches: 1/4, 5/16"; Connector Gender: Female One of our most popular parts
Automatic trans.; 4 speed trans.; w/ Calif. Emissions

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$37.79

Rock auto don't have that egr tube, I imagine because it's a 1 year only thing.
 
So I replaced that switch with the valve in October 2014.

Tube is on order from Ford, hopefully it's the right one. Just waiting on a crowfoot wrench I ordered to try to break the nut off. As of now I managed to break it the wrong way and losened the side screwed into the exhaust manifold, now they all spin together. Grrrrrrreat.
 

dustybumpers

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Heat........... soak it with some penetrating oil until you are ready. Keep hitting it. I know it will burn off when you run the truck, but some of it will weep up in the threads
 

dustybumpers

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Fantastic news!
Glad to help, Thanks for letting us know the outcome
 

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