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Gonna burn it to the ground by God...

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
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In my own world
cool deal, sent the cam specs. shame. I just scrapped the full length headers, and tuobo muflers and side pipes. all barely used. truck got totaled. going to be moveing out of state soon, so a lot of good stuff[ to me anyway!!] is going. anyone close to md have a look.
 

LEB Ben

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Alright...diging in to this thing and all the driver's side push rods look good.


That being said, I noticed my coffee can looking vacuum reservoir has big ol crack in it about 3" long and maybe 1/16" wide. Would this leak cause it to still run like crap because the engine isn't pulling enough vacuum?


Edit...pushrods on the passenger side look good too.



That being said, with only my hand, when pushing on the pushrod side of the rocker to see what was going on with the lifters, there were three instances (1 on the driver's side, 2 on the passenger side) where with finger pressure alone, I could get it to drop about 1/8"...I gave those a rap with a dead blow, and couldn't get anymore movement out of them though. Is this typical or not because the 13 I had zero movement at all.
 
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dustybumpers

don't play well w others
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In my own world
is a non adjustable rocker, or does it have a threaded stud? non adjustable you have a problem, adjustable, the valves need adjusted, which is a simple procedure.
 

LEB Ben

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is a non adjustable rocker, or does it have a threaded stud? non adjustable you have a problem, adjustable, the valves need adjusted, which is a simple procedure.


This is a stock 78 400, with nothing more than a carb and intake...so it has the stock nonadjustable rockers. Got down to the cam plate too, it appears there's about 1/4-1/2" of slop front rear there too. Time for a top end rebuild?
 
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LEB Ben

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might as well since ya got it all apart.


You're twisting my arm, and I was wanting to anyway, but wasn't quite planning on dropping the coin yet. Oh well, what's a few Benjamins between a guy and his truck.
 

1985 Ford F-150

Country Boys Can Survive
7,816
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Tooele, Utah
Yeah either theyre gettin ate or they aint holdin pressure either way id go head and replace em. When ya do the new cam and lifters remember to use a zinc addative Rotella dont cut it no more and the tree huggers finally took the zinc out of it. Crower reccomends ZDDP plus but probly about anything similar will work I know Lucas makes a zinc addative that we used on the 410 the last time and its held up ok but itll be gettin a new cam as well before too long. Also dont be afraid to use too much cause it aint gonna hurt it.
 

LEB Ben

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well since ben has scored the cam could you give me the info on a cam. i am looking for one at the moment and since you say its nasty it must be a pretty dang good performer if its a secret pm me if you know a special grind for these things

Hold on to that thought, the cam might have a little too much lift for me and I'd have to upgrade rockers as well...but here's what he sent me:

cam came from paw,part #vs320-16. 70-82 boss 351,351-c,m-400. lift-intake@cam 2800, @valve 484. lift exhaust@cam 2947@valve 510. rocker arm ratio-1.73. cam timeing-intake opens @5* closes at 29* max lift 107* durration 204*.

Yeah either theyre gettin ate or they aint holdin pressure either way id go head and replace em. When ya do the new cam and lifters remember to use a zinc addative Rotella dont cut it no more and the tree huggers finally took the zinc out of it. Crower reccomends ZDDP plus but probly about anything similar will work I know Lucas makes a zinc addative that we used on the 410 the last time and its held up ok but itll be gettin a new cam as well before too long. Also dont be afraid to use too much cause it aint gonna hurt it.

Alright, thanks Dan. I saw Comp had an additive at $10.95 a bottle, but they also had true quarts of break-in oil that ran 4.95 a quart. I think I'd just go with the additive.


Quick question though, does it matter what viscosity I go with to break it in? Would 15w40 be a little too thick? Should I just go with the 10w30 rotella plus the additive?
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
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La Vergne, TN
Hold on to that thought, the cam might have a little too much lift for me and I'd have to upgrade rockers as well...but here's what he sent me:

cam came from paw,part #vs320-16. 70-82 boss 351,351-c,m-400. lift-intake@cam 2800, @valve 484. lift exhaust@cam 2947@valve 510. rocker arm ratio-1.73. cam timeing-intake opens @5* closes at 29* max lift 107* durration 204*.

HAWT DAM THATS ONE NASTY CAM!!!
 
Ben, did you ever do a compression test? Knowing which cyl. is week can give you a good place to start looking for what is wrong. I would want to know what the problem is before rebuilding, just so I don't have the same thing happen again and ruin all the work just done (and coin just spent!). Keep us posted, I'm curious to see what is going on.
 

LEB Ben

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Ben, did you ever do a compression test? Knowing which cyl. is week can give you a good place to start looking for what is wrong. I would want to know what the problem is before rebuilding, just so I don't have the same thing happen again and ruin all the work just done (and coin just spent!). Keep us posted, I'm curious to see what is going on.


Naw...couldn't find the tester, and I was sick of sitting around and doing nothing. I'll probably run to a rent a tool or my buddy down the street to borrow one.
 

1985 Ford F-150

Country Boys Can Survive
7,816
307
Tooele, Utah
Hold on to that thought, the cam might have a little too much lift for me and I'd have to upgrade rockers as well...but here's what he sent me:

cam came from paw,part #vs320-16. 70-82 boss 351,351-c,m-400. lift-intake@cam 2800, @valve 484. lift exhaust@cam 2947@valve 510. rocker arm ratio-1.73. cam timeing-intake opens @5* closes at 29* max lift 107* durration 204*.



Alright, thanks Dan. I saw Comp had an additive at $10.95 a bottle, but they also had true quarts of break-in oil that ran 4.95 a quart. I think I'd just go with the additive.


Quick question though, does it matter what viscosity I go with to break it in? Would 15w40 be a little too thick? Should I just go with the 10w30 rotella plus the additive?

Id run the addative and 15w 40 I run it all year round and the extra viscosity will give ya alittle better wear protection itll also help the weak oil pressure them motors are known for. Weak lifters dont help your oil pressure any. Dont know how good the comp cams stuff is but heres the lucas stuff I used.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lucas+Oil/639/10063/10002/-1
Heres the stuff Crower reccomends.
http://crower.com/misc/product/dl/ZDDP_clr.pdf
 

LEB Ben

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thst appears to be a comp 265deh. i may be wrong though


That's what I thought too, but this is what he replied with:


the cam is actualy a sis, wich is paw's[preformance automotive warehouse]
 
Ben, did you ever do a compression test? Knowing which cyl. is week can
give you a good place to start looking for what is wrong. I would want to
know what the problem is before rebuilding, just so I don't have the same
thing happen again and ruin all the work just done (and coin just spent!).
Keep us posted, I'm curious to see what is going on.
x2 :)

Butthead in AZ
ps- Last I heard, fifty-weight oil is "supposed-ta-be" exempt
from the zinc and phosphorous reduction rules...
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
 

LEB Ben

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Alright fellas, help me sort out my symptoms please:


-A bunch of chatter from the valve train. Probable lifter issues.

-Cam movement front to rear. Faceplate issues? Cam bolt issues?

-Engine dying. Due to above issues?

-Serious engine wobble, and this one bothers me the worst because I used to be able to put a glass of water on the air cleaner and barely get a ripple. Due to above issues as well?



Pushrods appear to be straight and all valves appear to be closing. I still need to do a compression test though.
 

1985 Ford F-150

Country Boys Can Survive
7,816
307
Tooele, Utah
Yep that would also cause it to eat the lifters if its movin a hair too much some faorward to back movement is normal but it aint very much.
 

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