Gonna burn it to the ground by God...

[5.0Flareside]

Why if they're good? My question was more for install, will everything line up properly and is the rocker the only thing keeping it in place.

haha i know i was kidding. yeah the rocker should be the only thing holding it. just loosen up the rockers turn them to the side pull the push rod out.

 

[LEB Ben]

Pretty much how you said. I don't know about flipping them. Never did it personally.

Thank ya sir.

 

[Austin]

Funny...I didn't see an answer from you.

Maybe he was pointing at both of us... I'd just rather put a whole new engine than worry about broken rods or new lifters. I'm 'rich' like that

 

[smokey]

Yep just loosen the rocker and they pull right off. make sure you install them back in the same place you removed them from. yes you can flip them this is because some of them mush a but on the tip. With a 400 this noramlly is not needed because the 400 normally does not have this problem.

 

[LEB Ben]

haha i know i was kidding. yeah the rocker should be the only thing holding it. just loosen up the rockers turn them to the side pull the push rod out.

Thank you sir.

Maybe he was pointing at both of us... I'd just rather put a whole new engine than worry about broken rods or new lifters. I'm 'rich' like that

Well I have a couple engines waiting in the wings...a free 400, a $75 400 and a $250 460. But I'd rather take this opportunity to learn. I figure it would take me a day to swap an engine, so why not take a few more hours to see if I can lighten the work load and learn something. That's one reason I actually do love this Bronco so much, because I've learned a lot from it. I learned some body work on Red and this one is schooling me on mechanics.

 

[Austin]

I see. I'm impatient some times... But, when I'm in a learning mood, things get done!

 

[5.0Flareside]

460!! 460!! 460!! 460!!

 

[LEB Ben]

460!! 460!! 460!! 460!!

As proven numerous times, until you start talking strokers, the 400 vs 460 of the same era aren't much different. The 400 has 90% of the power, yet a lower rpm band. I just threw 460 out there because it's close, a good runner and cheap.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

make sure you install them back in the same place you removed them from.
With a 400 this noramlly is not needed because the 400 normally does not
have this problem.

Cool.

When my cowboy buddy's swapped ends during an FE rebuild, they got a
bad enough "oil leak" to tear into a again to figure out what was wrong.

------------------------

Thanks Ben for the praise, all through school, students would ask me the
same question they'd asked the teacher and still didn't understand.

Sometimes I'd learn it too by answering their questions and thinking about
it in-detail-enough to say it out loud, at that point. LOL

A case of the dumb helping the dumb and it working out good for both!

Alvin in AZ

 

[bronco69]

Just take them out, clean them, and put them back in....the same way they came out if you can keep them organized. I wouldn't buy new ones if they are straight. Did you find a bent one? Did you find another problem?

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

If ya aint fixed it yet the way I check em is take a rubber mallet and hit the top of the rocker where the pushrod sits while everything is torqued down to spec and if its solid theyre fine if they move more than an inch or so then the lifters toast and cam too most likely. I also do the same thing on the valve spring side to check for the valves stickin. Ive never heard of puttin the push rods back in the same holes but for used lifters and cams its a must. Id also roll em across somethin flat to make sure they aint bent. The way to tell that the pushrod is in the right groove in the lifter is itll have very very slight magnetic feel when ya try to pull it out of the hole.

 

[dustybumpers]

I would do the compression check BEFORE I took anything apart, would suck to tear into it, and valve train appears normal. at leat with a compression check, you have some idea of where to start, what cyls, etc.

 

[LEB Ben]

Just take them out, clean them, and put them back in....the same way they came out if you can keep them organized. I wouldn't buy new ones if they are straight. Did you find a bent one? Did you find another problem?

Didn't go in to it yet, it rained all night last night.

If ya aint fixed it yet the way I check em is take a rubber mallet and hit the top of the rocker where the pushrod sits while everything is torqued down to spec and if its solid theyre fine if they move more than an inch or so then the lifters toast and cam too most likely. I also do the same thing on the valve spring side to check for the valves stickin. Ive never heard of puttin the push rods back in the same holes but for used lifters and cams its a must. Id also roll em across somethin flat to make sure they aint bent. The way to tell that the pushrod is in the right groove in the lifter is itll have very very slight magnetic feel when ya try to pull it out of the hole.

Thanks Dan...good info.

I would do the compression check BEFORE I took anything apart, would suck to tear into it, and valve train appears normal. at leat with a compression check, you have some idea of where to start, what cyls, etc.

Will do. Just a matter of weather agreeing and time. That's why it's been down so long, neither seem to agree with my schedule.

 

[LEB Ben]

Alright...I have a question about the cam dowel pin. I'm not saying this is the issue, but when I drilled out the cam eccentric bolt, it's possible that the dowel slid out of the cam, no? So is there a way to test for this without completely tearing it down again?

 

[dustybumpers]

find tdc,mark the dist body exactly tdc, turn crank slightly back and forth while watching the rocker arms, and watch the soda straw on the piston as I described before,try to figure exactly when the valve starts to open. this method is realy not that reliable. only other way is to pull the front back off, and put a degree wheel on the cam. some timing gears have a 4* off set in them both ways, before, and after tdc.

 

[LEB Ben]

find tdc,mark the dist body exactly tdc, turn crank slightly back and forth while watching the rocker arms, and watch the soda straw on the piston as I described before,try to figure exactly when the valve starts to open. this method is realy not that reliable. only other way is to pull the front back off, and put a degree wheel on the cam. some timing gears have a 4* off set in them both ways, before, and after tdc.

Alright, thanks. Or if I'm in that far just take the thrust plate off too, right? And see what kinda condition the dowl is in.

 

[dustybumpers]

I would do lots of checking before I took the timing cover back off, it is no fun leaning over the front of the truck. if you decide to change the cam and lifters, you will have the radiator and grill out, things will be easier then. shame you don't live closerr, I have a nasty cam and lifters for a 400 you could have.free. give it a good home.

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks man...I'm just getting all the info I can so I can tackle it this weekend. Just trying to pick everyone's brain so I don't have to do it when I get in my groove, and then track grease in all over the house.


That being said, ship the cam and lifters, I'll give it a good home. Box it up, lemme know shipping costs and I'll throw in a little more for your troubles. If you'd be willing that is.

 

[dustybumpers]

no problem, pm me with your info, and I'll set it up.

 

[LEB Ben]

no problem, pm me with your info, and I'll set it up.

PM sent....