Changinig Brakes (Pads & Rotors)

[Beachbumcook]

I have changed my front brakes and rotors on my '03 Excursion 4X4 before... so no problem there... but what about the rear brakes?

Due to "warping" of the front brakes, I need to change them out and will do my rears (finely after 105,000 miles)!!!

Is there anything different about ther rear dics?

What about the Emergency brake cable or adjustment?

Anything special about removing the rear dics off the axle?

Thanks,

 

[bowtiehatr]

the e-brake is a shoe type setup. you wont have to mess with the ebrake whatsoever, unless your shoes hang up. within removing the rer discs, you are going to have fun. i suggest getting the rotors nice and hot, snatching the wheels off and soaking the hubs down with pb blaster or something equal. the rotors love to rust to the hubs and are oh so fun to get off, even with a BFH. let the rotors soak for a while then a few whacks should pop them lose.

 

[Beachbumcook]

the rotors love to rust to the hubs and are oh so fun to get off, even with a BFH. let the rotors soak for a while then a few whacks should pop them lose.

I have heard that...

Since I have 105,000 miles on the rear rotors and pads (original ones)... I fifgure I may just use a BFH and just buy new rotors to match the front ones.

If I go with just regular rotors (non slotted or drilled)... is there a brand that I may be able to get at my local auto parts store or NAPA? I have seen Wagner and a few no-name brands... and for around $60.00/ea... I figure this may be the way to go??? NAPA had some slotted rotors for $120/ea... is it worth it???

I am definately replacing the front ones since I machined them the last time and not sure if they can be done again... but due to warpage (again)... I figure they have had it.

 

[Brian_B]

I replaced all the pads on my explorer when I bought it. It only had 65,000 on it and they all looked fine, but....I already had them and had the wheels off.

The rear came apart with no issues at all. Then again...it has less miles at the time.

 

[bowtiehatr]

just because the rotors are more expensive doesnt mean they are better. slotted rotors can warp and even crack if they are not a good name brand/quality. i would say factory style rotors should be fine for the rear.

 

[Dave W]

I'm not a fan of a BFH on a rear rotor as you could possibly bend an axle shaft. Not easy - but some of those BFH get really big. A Sawzsall and a couple of good brand name blades work real well - as long as you are carefull.

Cut down thru the pad contact surface as far as you can go without running into e-brake parts or axle flanges - you might need two cuts ~180deg apart. Using a good size cold chisel, drive it into the cut(s) and you will spread the flange area a bit, then whang the rotor once or twice and it should come loose. When it's off, clean up the rust real well then anti sieze the flange.

I did my '01 brakes(2 weeks before trade in ) in about an hour - give or take a few minutes. The replacement rotors were OEM type Brembo's from Tire Rack.

IMHO - slotted/drilled rotors are not needed for a daily driver and not even convinced that they are worth it on a race car.

 

[bowtiehatr]

you cant bend an axle on a excursion or 250 and up. different axle setup.

slotted and drilled rotors do help because they dissapate the gas that is formed when the pad contacts the rotor. the gas "bubble" actually can keep the pad from making full contact so this is where the drilled/slotted came into play. the slots/holes keep the gasses from building up.

 

[Dave W]

you cant bend an axle on a excursion or 250 and up. different axle setup.

You're right - I momentarily lost my mind - full floaters - I've only owned 3 - 250's and 2 - 350's

And I do disagree with you about slotted and drilled rotors - unneeded on a daily driver - but will save that for another day

 

[bowtiehatr]

i never said they were needed.

then again, this is beach we are taling about

 

[blacksnapon]

They're good enough for who its for!

 

[Beachbumcook]

then again, this is beach we are taling about

Hey now... only the best for "Beach".

This is why I asked... as I knew I would get the best answers right here!!!

 

[Beachbumcook]

They're good enough for who its for!

Maybe yes... and maybe no... this is why I asked... the "professionals".

Just trying to determine if spending the extra money is worth it or not? For what the slotted rotors cost, I could buy 2 sets of regular ones!!!

 

[bowtiehatr]

will you be towing?

 

[blacksnapon]

Just think, Beach, how long did your stock ones last?

 

[Beachbumcook]

Just think, Beach, how long did your stock ones last?

Very true... and the reason I am asking.

Original - fronts - lasted 50,000 - 60,000 miles.

Original - rears - 105,000 miles (still on truck).


I ws thinking of just buying 4 new rotors all the way around and getting stock rotors for $60.00/ea or so and not worry about turning them (especially the front ones due to warpage - again).

 

[Beachbumcook]

will you be towing?

Not much... I have a 3,000lb utility trailer, tow the boy scouts 6,000lb twin axle trailer and a friends 25' pontoon boat (no idea how much it weighs... but it is big).

 

[bowtiehatr]

i would use stock rotors. now if you want to spend the money for the front rotors, get the cryo rotors. they do not warp as easy.