c6 tranny swap

[johny89]

hi

i'm planning on doing a C6 to C6 swap so just another gearbox since the C6 in it now won't engage D when cold (needs little warmup)
i have some questions before i start

does the tranny and torque converter needs to be flushed (emptied)?
what equipment should i need and what should i look for (changing the flywheel aswell since the starter sometimes doesn't engage if i take starter of the car test it and put it back on it works fine) but i think the gear is coming of the wheel.

 

[LEB Ben]

Always start with fresh fluid. The TC especially has a tendancy to hold trash. Air gun and impact sockets, various wrenches, floor jack with tranny cradle (or enough wood blocks to reach the trans). Shouldn't be too difficult for you, unbolt and bolt in the replacements. MAKE SURE the TC you use is seated preoperly. The most hardest part will be putting the new trans and keeping it in place until you get a couple bolts started.

 

[1970Custom]

Not too hard Ben, just make sure you triple check it before you slide it tight

 

[johny89]

Always start with fresh fluid. The TC especially has a tendancy to hold trash. Air gun and impact sockets, various wrenches, floor jack with tranny cradle (or enough wood blocks to reach the trans). Shouldn't be too difficult for you, unbolt and bolt in the replacements. MAKE SURE the TC you use is seated preoperly. The most hardest part will be putting the new trans and keeping it in place until you get a couple bolts started.

can i keep the fluid in the tranny coming out of the car as long as i don't rebuild it?

front of tranny is now very oily is there any seal coming from the engine that can easily replaced when tranny is out?

 

[1970Custom]

Oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, or rear main seal. Two of the three can be a pain.

 

[LEB Ben]

can i keep the fluid in the tranny coming out of the car as long as i don't rebuild it?

front of tranny is now very oily is there any seal coming from the engine that can easily replaced when tranny is out?

Yeah...I'd keep the trans fluid in the pan, and not worry about draining. There might be some residual in the cooler lines, so have a rag or kitty litter handy.

As for oil...the only on that is any easier to replace with the trans out would be the rear main seal...still a little bit of a headache to do, but you'll have more room to work. If you replace that, you'll have to replace the pan gasket anyway, so you'll knock out two potential culprits. There could also be a leak from the rear of the intake manifold and the vlave cover gaskets...both easily enough replaced.

 

[1970Custom]

Depends on the engine Ben, if its the 300-6 they're a one piece main IIRC.

 

[Fellro]

My 351W is one piece int he 88 as well. I would do the front seal on the trans too. Biggest thing to look out for on these is the converter not being seated into the pump. You will break the case or the pump if you don't have it all the way in. You will be able to tell if it isn't by having enough space between the converter and the case of the trans that you can put your fingers in.

 

[LEB Ben]

Depends on the engine Ben, if its the 300-6 they're a one piece main IIRC.

Shoot just realized this was the gen 8/9 forum...was assuming gen 6 for some reason and was thinking 335/385 series.

You will be able to tell if it isn't by having enough space between the converter and the case of the trans that you can put your fingers in.

You gave me that tid bit of info on one of my first swaps, and I still abide by it today...I ALWAYS get weird looks from my buddies as to why I'm sticking my fingers in...I suppose a couple of them owe you a case or two of beer, after they failed the test.

 

[Fellro]

I can check by eyeball, but it is a quick rule of thumb I learned long ago after failing that test myself. I got lucky of a sort and "only" broke the bell housing. I was lucky that my cousin also could weld aluminum... Usually, you can't even get the tips of your fingers in if it is fully seated.

 

[johny89]

so i probably shouldn't be able doing this:

how do i get it installed well on the pump?

 

[Fellro]

Nope. it it too far forward. Don't worry about it until you are getting ready to put the motor up to it. Another thing to be aware of is that the studs are not symmetrically arranged, they have to be one certain stud in one certain hole.

 

[Dirky]

Wiggle and turn, it'll seat eventually. When you get the transmission mated up, wiggle the T/C back and forth to make sure it is not binding BEFORE you tighten the bolts. It should never be difficult to turn. It's not hard to break a the pump if you're not paying attention.

 

[Fellro]

That is what I always do. I spin and push it in, the finger check is the final determination. The C6 has just two flat spots on the side of the converter pilot, so that is why they are a little more tricky to seat. The Chevy convertors have two notches, so they seat much easier, but aren't as strong and are sometimes the point of failure.

 

[johny89]

since i'll be changingflexplate & starter aswell do i need to unbolt these or can i take tranny of with these still on it?
ps can't find whar fluid the convertor needs...

 

[johny89]

add to last post:
since i haven't got any inch sockets yet, which should i buy in need of tightening flywheel bolts( yes i have to loosen this one to torque converter since its bolted to the engine aswell: was a stupid question from my last post i answer myself) and transmission bolts (torque wrench i have and mm sockets aswell)

 

[5.0Flareside]

go get SAE sockets.. ya cant work on these trucks properly without a set...

 

[Fellro]

The starter mounts to the trans, so it will have to be taken down, the nuts on the torque converter studs need to be taken off, the flywheel/flexplate stays with the engine. You don't put a certain fluid into the converter, it gets fluid from the transmission pump.

 

[johny89]

trans has been swapped, big job from lying under the car, one tip don't use jack stands, they collapsed...

one problem with the tranny: speed is not correct anymore, i drive slower then shown on the dash... can i adjust this?

 

[1970Custom]

Jack stands are great if they're not the cheap ones, never had any give out.

Check the number on the Speedometer gear, sounds like you need to drop a number or two.