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best overall 8.8 gear

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
8,014
393
Iowa County, Iowa
An auto trans is nothing more than a series of clutch packs so it accumulates wear the same as a manual clutch. Larger tires are heavier and require more force to accelerate and at the same time they reduce the final drive ratio(35's are equavelent to using 2.89 ratio with stock tires, 40's would be like having 2.50's), so you're transferring all that extra load to the only other device between the engine and axle.. which is the transmission.

except for that fluid coupler called a torque converter... the high pressure of the fluid inside the converter is what makes for high temps, which can and does burn the fluid.
 
i just looked up tire-gear ratio chart in a bronco graveyard mag. and 4.56's w/35's would be an "overall" and 4.11 w/35's both will be "highway" driving. this lil thing gots me slumpd, highway or overall?

The problem with that chart and even the discussion here is the advice is a little to broad to apply to every vehicle combo, you need to get a bit more specific about the exact specs of your truck. For example if you have a lighter vehicle(reg cab 1/2 ton) then you can get away with less gearing, but if you have a small V8 and do a lot of highway driving you need more gearing.
 

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
yea ima keep my truck a "show king" not queen. but the specs are for any ones curiousty.

1992 f150 reg cab small box
351 v8 efi
e40d trans
44d front 8.8 rear non posi 3.55
35-13.5-15 toyo mt 8.5 modular rims
never towed anything exept small equipment in the bed and 39.5 swampers and only pulled when off road.

i think now ima stay onroad due to a offroad incident last night. (45+ inch hole sunk my 35's with 9 inch lift) bumper got hurt door and front drivers fender bent and rear fiber glass step damaged but got out= one fine a$$ night
 
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i think now ima stay onroad due to a offroad incident last night.
(45+ inch hole sunk my 35's with 9 inch lift) bumper got hurt door
and front drivers fender bent and rear fiber glass step damaged...
But that -is- a road. :)
So, that's not off-roading, see? :)

But anyway, that sort of stuff was what my dune buggies and motorcycles
were for. The pickup was to get me, toys, groceries, whatever, from point A
to point B. ...and so it does, still, over 35 years later! :)

Just got back from Mexico in it last week. :)
In September might get to take my Road-Queen 2wd Bronco.

Alvin in AZ
 

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
seems like everyone has dealt with 4.10's and 4.55's, but has anyone had experience with 4.30's or 4.33's ? looking at some from smilieFordlogo racing.

(still got a dilemma and don't really know where to start with so im thinking about going some where in between 4.10 -4.55)
 
seems like everyone has dealt with 4.10's and 4.55's, but has anyone had
experience with 4.30's or 4.33's ? looking at some from smilieFordlogo racing.

(still got a dilemma and don't really know where to start with so im thinking
about going some where in between 4.10 -4.55)
At some level, anywhere from 4.10 to to 4.55 is the same thing. :)

So lean toward the one you think will work the best for you and even if you're
"wrong" you won't be all that far off, since none of them are perfect for every
use you got for it.

...or something like that? LOL :)

The more you spell out what you're thinking and what your plans are the better
"those that have" can help you decide.

Re-read what you've posted as information for us to help you with, it won't take
long at all. ;)

Alvin in AZ
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
I agree with Alvin...there comes a point where you're just splitting hairs, I'm not sure if the 4.30 would be an advantage over either gear set. When comparing a 4.10 to a 4.56, at 65mph with a 38" tire, there's only about a 260rpm difference ranging from roughly 2356rpm to 2621. That'as really not that big of a difference, and if you're going slower, that's even that much less of a difference. Now if you ever decide to go with a smaller tire, the rpm difference will get bigger exponentially the smaller the tire you go with. That being said, let's go back to the original scenario with 4.30's, you're talk 2471rpm.
 

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
for starters. i got a

1992 automatic f150 reg cab flareside shortbed
with a 351 v8 winsor
e40d transmission
d44 ifs front 8.8 non posi rear
6 inch suspension 3 inch body
35-14.5-15 ssr swampers

and what i have in mind is i want back 'or' even more mpg and i want back the lost power due from the upgrading i have done above. and again "MORE" but keeping it to a min to get back mpg. and also i am going to use my truck as a rig more than anything. more on road less off road, like hauling, minor towing and more throttle response from take off and more passing power. in other words. i want MORE mpg and power.
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
Well with the little bit of info I posted above, the difference between a 4.10 and 4.56 at 65mph is less than 300rpm, negligible comes to mind.
 

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
I agree with Alvin...there comes a point where you're just splitting hairs, I'm not sure if the 4.30 would be an advantage over either gear set. When comparing a 4.10 to a 4.56, at 65mph with a 38" tire, there's only about a 260rpm difference ranging from roughly 2356rpm to 2621. That'as really not that big of a difference, and if you're going slower, that's even that much less of a difference. Now if you ever decide to go with a smaller tire, the rpm difference will get bigger exponentially the smaller the tire you go with. That being said, let's go back to the original scenario with 4.30's, you're talk 2471rpm.

well what im trying to get at is, 4.10's would do good for driving MAINLY. but 4.55's would do good for driving MAINLY, AND a little more muscle where it's need at times. and im thinking 4.30's would be nice. right in the middle of my dilemma.
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
About 120rpm more than the 4.10's and 180 less than 4.56's.
Yeah and since he's got overdrive, would the shorter gears like 4.56, even
hurt his mileage, any? :)

"Truckin4life = 4.56 gets my vote"
(oh heck it's too much trouble)
Was going to snip n paste where everybody was sayin' 4.56. :/
...but it'd be almost the whole stinkin' thread! LOL :)

Over on FSB those guys swear by the idea to go at least one step shorter
gears (past stock rpm) just to make up for air and rolling resistance with lifts
and bigger tires. Let alone if you're looking for more oomph than stock. ;)

Butthead in AZ
 
i got a 6 inch suspension 3 inch body
35-14.5-15 ssr swampers

i want back even or more mpg and i want back the lost power due from the upgrading i have done above.

OK for starters your goals aren't realistic, the truck is jacked up at least a foot higher in the air which increases drag and the tires on there now are quite a bit heaver than stock so they'll take more TQ to accelerate. It'll take 4.30 gears to get back the final drive ratio the truck had with stock tires and it'll need a litte more to compensate for the extra rotating mass, so 4.56 is the answer. That will drastically improve overall performance from what you have now but it's anybodys guess what your fuel milage will be, it should be a lot better but you still need to recalibrate the speedo for the larger tires if it hasn't been done already.
 

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