5.4 coolant leakage behind waterpump

[rambler]

First Post and a major problem...

I need help on my truck. I saw a water leakage behind the water pump, I know it wasnt the pump, but it was anti-freeze, so doing research found out there is a two-piece metal pipe, to run under the intake manifold to a heater hose in the back. so I had to take off the intake manifold ( what a PITA, and PLASTIC) and finally got this off, looks like it was leaking for awhile and some corrision has occured. any idea how to get the pipe off from the back of the water pump?

This is a 2000 Ford Super Duty, with a 5.4 SOHC Triton Engine F-250.

Do I heat this, I dont know if the piece is aluminim? I sprayed PB Blaser on it, but still stuck , the piece is broken in there as well, because I "Tapped" it with a hammer trying to get it out. Any ideas?

Here are some Pics... any help would be appreciated...

This is the new piece

and the front of the engine in the waterpump cavity

of course after I "tapped it" and it broke I found a "quick fix"

of course its too late now, and the piece is still stuck in the block due to corrosion, I've used PB Blaster on it and letting it soak up, but not sure if I can heat this up? maybe break it free?

on another note, probably a good time to change the plugs since I'm down there, but pretty nervious reading some of the posts here about breaking plugs....

thanks in advance for any help! need to get this thing back on the road! saving too much gas driving my daughter's escort!

 

[flareside_thunder]

well welcome to the site...wish i could help ya but the mod motors are not my Niche...I'm sure the one of many ford mastertechs on here will give their opinins on this problem come daylight tomorrow.However, good luck and thanks for joining...don't let problems be the only reason you post on here.

 

[lil_dq]

Some of the links didn't work. when I tore down mine, it was just pressed in there with a double O-ring. PITA to get out but it did come. Good luck getting the new one back in, I had to find an O-ring that fit it and slip it in. I opted for the single on the return due to the tightness of getting it back together.

As for the plugs, being as I had a plug problem, all I can tell you is to make sure the engine is COLD and not in the slightest bit warm. You should have no porblems.

 

[rambler]

thanks for the welcome, this site was referred from another site I visit.. 67-72chevytrucks.com, as I have a fondness for the older trucks, (both Ford and Chevy) but my work truck is my F250, been trouble free till I finally paid it off THIS MONTH! nothing but gas, gas, tires, and more gas in it since I bought it 3 years ago...

maybe these pics will look better...

 

[flareside_thunder]

well judging from what DQ said...you could probly break it off if you've got a new tube...make sure you get all the metal out then rub a little RTV on it....and shove the new one in....don't forget the Orings!

 

[lil_dq]

I'm wondering (strictly outta speculation here as mine wasn't broke there) that it has to come out the timing chain cover side. That looks bad. I just had a hellava time getting the metal tube back on that nipple.

 

[rambler]

yes, it needs to come out of that side, which is where the water pump is located, just dont want to mess it up any more, and it was leaking there, I've got the new parts, had to order them from Ford, just dont want to tear up a good running engine, not sure if heating it up will help loosen it or not... I'll work on it more tomorrow afternoon, as I got to pick up some hay for the horses, and my daughter is coming back from college on Thursday so have to move her back home!

 

[lil_dq]

If you can get to it from where the water pump is then its only like 3 or 4 bolts on the pump. then it should just tap right out.(easier said than done I know.) that would be easy, its just getting to them and getting the fan and such outta the way that is the pain. good luck and keep us posted.

 

[rambler]

spent a all-nighter on Tuesday and got it back together. I still have some work to do on it, but its running, just not as good as I like, I may replace the coils, as the new plugs dont seem to help any...

 

[d-kuzmen]

I wish I would have saw this earlier. You need to pull the water pump out and beat that nipple through, then I recomend removing the o-ring off the new one and hammer it back in the block, use a socket or something that matches to the outside of it. Make sure you unbolt the metal tube off the back of the head, lube the new oring and the tube should go right on. This is a fairly common problem with these.

 

[rambler]

got it all running again, just doesnt seem to run right, I may pull the plugs again, (bought new ones, but the shop was out of motorcraft, so bought some others, dont remember the name) he said they were gaped for the ford, but my manual said differently, but left them as the plug was since they were "double titanium" tipped, a tip on both parts of the plug,, not like the splitfires which are junk, so may regap them..

 

[Moto Mel]

First Post and a major problem...

I need help on my truck. I saw a water leakage behind the water pump, I know it wasnt the pump, but it was anti-freeze, so doing research found out there is a two-piece metal pipe, to run under the intake manifold to a heater hose in the back. so I had to take off the intake manifold ( what a PITA, and PLASTIC) and finally got this off, looks like it was leaking for awhile and some corrision has occured. any idea how to get the pipe off from the back of the water pump?

This is a 2000 Ford Super Duty, with a 5.4 SOHC Triton Engine F-250.

Do I heat this, I dont know if the piece is aluminim? I sprayed PB Blaser on it, but still stuck , the piece is broken in there as well, because I "Tapped" it with a hammer trying to get it out. Any ideas?

Here are some Pics... any help would be appreciated...

This is the new piece

and the front of the engine in the waterpump cavity

of course after I "tapped it" and it broke I found a "quick fix"

of course its too late now, and the piece is still stuck in the block due to corrosion, I've used PB Blaster on it and letting it soak up, but not sure if I can heat this up? maybe break it free?

on another note, probably a good time to change the plugs since I'm down there, but pretty nervious reading some of the posts here about breaking plugs....

thanks in advance for any help! need to get this thing back on the road! saving too much gas driving my daughter's escort!

Years ago I used pipe thread brass fittings and hard copper 3/8" tubing to eliminate the rubber hoses on my GT500 KR and it worked great. I intend to do a conversion on the replacement engine for my Navigator before installation and I'll take pics and post the procedure. I think a standard size pipe thread will fit the hole in the block. We will all know in a few more days.

 

[close729]

What size hose did you use to cover it? I was going to try to tap it out but I don't think it will work with it rusted out like it is on mine. Think the hose bit is my best bet at this point.