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351w roller cam break in oil?

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,689
797
Belton, MO
Hey guys, tell me what you know about break in oil!

At O'Reilly's they were carrying a Lucas brand break in oil, advertised as being used for racing applications (flat tappet cams) and it was $18 per pint.

Should I use break in oil? The engine is a stock bottom end 351w, and the valvetrain is a slightly modified one, but still stock roller cam setup. The rockers are scorpion. The engine is modified but I would say it's oiling needs aren't much different than a stock motor.

Ryan
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
I wouldn't ever run Lucas anything in anything I own. Overpriced not much additives, poor base stock etc.

Basic conventional oil will be plenty. Change around 500 miles or so. Don't put a Synthetic in until 3k+ miles.

If you want to go full on I have a break-in oil extremely high in zinc. Not needed in roller cam apps but doesn't hurt. But it's a non friction modifier oil. Allows quick break in of rings.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/break-in-oil-(sae-30)/?zo=5224678

And I'll extend the 15% off to ya. 15% of retail.
 
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DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
You can run synthetic from the get go if you want, I will be once I get my engine together.
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
You can run synthetic from the get go if you want, I will be once I get my engine together.

Personally prefer not to as synthetics have a higher amount of friction modifiers and slows ring seating. Just personal preference.

And most definitely can run synthetic from get go. MANY car manufacturers do it now.
 

SuperCab

Moderator
Staff member
10,067
543
Montana
My personal take:

Don't need special oil for a roller cam.

I prefer to run conventional for the first 500 miles before switching to synthetic, as the rings will seat faster.

Change the oil and filter often. Break in is hard on an engine - there will be metal in the oil. I usually do 100 miles for the first change, then 500.
 
Just put 10W30 in it and call it done. IDK i build a lot of engine. And some pretty pricey engine. and will a roller cam. We just start them up. let them run for a hour. keep and eye on it. leek temp Psi thing like that. and then go drive it.

And that it. I call it done. after that its time to go beat the hell out of it.
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
Just put 10W30 in it and call it done. IDK i build a lot of engine. And some pretty pricey engine. and will a roller cam. We just start them up. let them run for a hour. keep and eye on it. leek temp Psi thing like that. and then go drive it.

And that it. I call it done. after that its time to go beat the hell out of it.

Hell we didn't even let mine run for an hour before beating the shit out of it.
 
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O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,689
797
Belton, MO
I've always used Motorcraft oil in my engines, it's a great blend oil. My theory on the rings is that they'll seat w/in 2-3 minutes, and if they don't seat, they're never going to seat with those kind of high impact operating conditions.

Maybe I'll run a low end conventional that is on sale, like a penzzoil or quaker state or something for the first 500 with a good motorcraft filter.

Ryan
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
I've always used Motorcraft oil in my engines, it's a great blend oil. My theory on the rings is that they'll seat w/in 2-3 minutes, and if they don't seat, they're never going to seat with those kind of high impact operating conditions.

Maybe I'll run a low end conventional that is on sale, like a penzzoil or quaker state or something for the first 500 with a good motorcraft filter.

Ryan

Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional would be my choice.

motorcraft is definitely a top blend oil. personally though for money you have invested. I'd go full synthetic. just extra piece o mine. doesn't have to be Amsoil. Pennzoil Ultra Is my go to off the shelf synthetic.
 
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