Kaajot
Micro Machine Manager
That didn't take long. I am lucky if I have 10 miles on this thing since purchase in August. That's a whole different story on why I wasn't driving it and will be settled in a court, but that's not the problem.
So the rear tank doesn't fill because it likely has the midship filler neck installed and is causing problems. That's on the shop on the 18th, and hoping I can DRIVE it there. However, I just bought a new battery cuz the Die Hard from 11/20 was nearly dead with a 11.8v or less pull. Got a mid-grade NAPA battery plus my plat oil filter and a new drain plug seal for $134, not too bad, Triple ! gave 20% to the cause.
Now I can Triple A Tow this thing, but I'd prefer to drive it the 2 miles to the bloody shop.
It has power. Things turn on. Some eejit before me put a 20 amp fuse in slot 13 on the inside, which is a 15 amp. I sacrificed my handy work at the stereo station and pulled its fuse to get the proper fuse in place -- the old fuse came out in 2 parts, although I think the continuity on the metal was still good. HAH! Never seen that before. Probably gonna change all the fuses soon, maybe with the fancy smancy light-ups when things go awry.
So, Code 542 came up right away, saying open circuit fuel pump or EEC/ECM issue.
Now I have yet to open the relays in the engine and put a light to it, etc. Is there a proper voltage test to determine the supply is right or a way to verify the relay is not broken inside? I know most of the time folks say, "Jus switch'm in the box, they're all the same." Isn't there a diagnostic though for a more scientific electrical or mechanical check?
I also found a great video that went through the Trifecta. They hot wired the rear fuel tank pump and verified it worked, plus checked the Inertia Safety Switch behind the passengers front panel and reset it, and then pulled the fuel selector switch out and verified it was bad, so they hot wired that too but STILL had a problem. Now this was on a 300-6, not a f350 460, but I believe it's pretty much the same overall. What they found was they still didn't have control at the engine fuse box on the relay for the fuel pump, so they pointed at an odd-shaped relay that was actually for the ECM! I had no idea. I feel (think) I need to check this on my f-150 too. Anyway, it had bad contact and had wiggled lose, so they cleaned it off, inserted it and everything worked as advertised.
Any thoughts on this probably being the right set of solutions?
Incidentally, the Fuel Selector Switch was replaced by the previous owner by the shop that did the new fuel tanks, differential seal, pinion seal, bunch of drive control stuff and new filler necks for the tanks. I'm thinking the FSS is good and we're at the relays. I've fussed around the Inertia Safety Switch on my f-150 and doubt it's tripped, but I can check that too on this one. Highly doubt it's tripped and even if it is, even more doubt on it being the culprit of the problem since I've not impacted anything recently in the 10 miles it was driven. The most impact it's had was the battery making a nice thud into its new home.
Oh yeah, battery block holders -- where should I get them? This engine bay thinks it's cool to just let it bounce around and hope for the best. Thinking I'd like to get her strapped in on the platform with some good rubber grips, but don't even know what to call them! Rubber battery bump stops? Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers? I dunno. I just don't have any holding this new one or the previous battery down.
So the rear tank doesn't fill because it likely has the midship filler neck installed and is causing problems. That's on the shop on the 18th, and hoping I can DRIVE it there. However, I just bought a new battery cuz the Die Hard from 11/20 was nearly dead with a 11.8v or less pull. Got a mid-grade NAPA battery plus my plat oil filter and a new drain plug seal for $134, not too bad, Triple ! gave 20% to the cause.
Now I can Triple A Tow this thing, but I'd prefer to drive it the 2 miles to the bloody shop.
It has power. Things turn on. Some eejit before me put a 20 amp fuse in slot 13 on the inside, which is a 15 amp. I sacrificed my handy work at the stereo station and pulled its fuse to get the proper fuse in place -- the old fuse came out in 2 parts, although I think the continuity on the metal was still good. HAH! Never seen that before. Probably gonna change all the fuses soon, maybe with the fancy smancy light-ups when things go awry.
So, Code 542 came up right away, saying open circuit fuel pump or EEC/ECM issue.
Now I have yet to open the relays in the engine and put a light to it, etc. Is there a proper voltage test to determine the supply is right or a way to verify the relay is not broken inside? I know most of the time folks say, "Jus switch'm in the box, they're all the same." Isn't there a diagnostic though for a more scientific electrical or mechanical check?
I also found a great video that went through the Trifecta. They hot wired the rear fuel tank pump and verified it worked, plus checked the Inertia Safety Switch behind the passengers front panel and reset it, and then pulled the fuel selector switch out and verified it was bad, so they hot wired that too but STILL had a problem. Now this was on a 300-6, not a f350 460, but I believe it's pretty much the same overall. What they found was they still didn't have control at the engine fuse box on the relay for the fuel pump, so they pointed at an odd-shaped relay that was actually for the ECM! I had no idea. I feel (think) I need to check this on my f-150 too. Anyway, it had bad contact and had wiggled lose, so they cleaned it off, inserted it and everything worked as advertised.
Any thoughts on this probably being the right set of solutions?
Incidentally, the Fuel Selector Switch was replaced by the previous owner by the shop that did the new fuel tanks, differential seal, pinion seal, bunch of drive control stuff and new filler necks for the tanks. I'm thinking the FSS is good and we're at the relays. I've fussed around the Inertia Safety Switch on my f-150 and doubt it's tripped, but I can check that too on this one. Highly doubt it's tripped and even if it is, even more doubt on it being the culprit of the problem since I've not impacted anything recently in the 10 miles it was driven. The most impact it's had was the battery making a nice thud into its new home.
Oh yeah, battery block holders -- where should I get them? This engine bay thinks it's cool to just let it bounce around and hope for the best. Thinking I'd like to get her strapped in on the platform with some good rubber grips, but don't even know what to call them! Rubber battery bump stops? Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers? I dunno. I just don't have any holding this new one or the previous battery down.