Kaajot
Micro Machine Manager
Hi-
So, we have the RPMs back after putting in a new smog pump, but am cleaning the ground by the front headlight and cutting the corroded copper, adding new eyelets to remove all resistance from the oxidation. Don't have pictures of it, but very VERY green.
However, it's still shifting hard at low gears and stalls when going to reverse. When I had a bad engine and exhaust leaks and oil leaks I chalked it up to low power and electrical cut-out. The battery does drop, but that might be a symptom of the alternator cutting out as the engine dies, although the alternator does drop first during the shift and then the entire engine cuts out, so it's "running" before it drops.
I'm at my wit's end. We also can't use a snap on or other smart code reader, have to manually count the codes. I've received code 627 and 638. These are memory codes, cannot get the KOEO and KOER to work with the "high speed" code readers. Looking for my old manual odb1 reader to run the tests -- so far it has always done the KOEO/KOER tests and produced new codes and allowed me to erase the memory, which has not been possible with the new computer code readers since 2017 or 2018. I don't know if the mechanic shot continuity and resistance across the grounds to the computer, which definitely could be the underlying problem on that even when I clean the ground at the head light.
628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage – Transmissions
638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded – Transmissions
I think I'm chasing more than one problem. I think the transmission is shot or has an electrical connection that needs to be repaired (ground is bad or broken) and I think the ODB1 also has issues. It may be worth opening up my PCM as well just to make sure it's in good condition internally since I'll need to shoot its wires anyway, but shoot the wires first before removing it for inspection.
Any thoughts?
Also, where can I find that third ground to the PCM that is off the battery? Could be be off the solenoid to the negative battery first, then run to the PCM via wiring bundle?
PS: New Engine Pics in-progress below, more in reply.
So, we have the RPMs back after putting in a new smog pump, but am cleaning the ground by the front headlight and cutting the corroded copper, adding new eyelets to remove all resistance from the oxidation. Don't have pictures of it, but very VERY green.
However, it's still shifting hard at low gears and stalls when going to reverse. When I had a bad engine and exhaust leaks and oil leaks I chalked it up to low power and electrical cut-out. The battery does drop, but that might be a symptom of the alternator cutting out as the engine dies, although the alternator does drop first during the shift and then the entire engine cuts out, so it's "running" before it drops.
I'm at my wit's end. We also can't use a snap on or other smart code reader, have to manually count the codes. I've received code 627 and 638. These are memory codes, cannot get the KOEO and KOER to work with the "high speed" code readers. Looking for my old manual odb1 reader to run the tests -- so far it has always done the KOEO/KOER tests and produced new codes and allowed me to erase the memory, which has not been possible with the new computer code readers since 2017 or 2018. I don't know if the mechanic shot continuity and resistance across the grounds to the computer, which definitely could be the underlying problem on that even when I clean the ground at the head light.
628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage – Transmissions
638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded – Transmissions
I think I'm chasing more than one problem. I think the transmission is shot or has an electrical connection that needs to be repaired (ground is bad or broken) and I think the ODB1 also has issues. It may be worth opening up my PCM as well just to make sure it's in good condition internally since I'll need to shoot its wires anyway, but shoot the wires first before removing it for inspection.
Any thoughts?
Also, where can I find that third ground to the PCM that is off the battery? Could be be off the solenoid to the negative battery first, then run to the PCM via wiring bundle?
PS: New Engine Pics in-progress below, more in reply.
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