General Dentside Discussion V2

[Alvin in AZ]

From the 1975 Ford Shop Manual
{snip}

Hmmm... don't see my 361FT 4v listed there either.
Not sure what's going on.
Maybe my 361FT was changed out to a 391FT at some point?
Or the table has a mistake in it?

Anyway, thanks for posting the table Dennis, could've looked it
up myself but wasn't thinking so good.

Alvin in AZ

 

[Fordzilla80]

I helped a buddy do lower ball joints on an 02 F150. We used a ball joint press. The hardest part was finding the right spacers. That and making sure the ball joint was flush.

I've been dreading having to do them on my D44 some day, since there's alot less room than on a lower control arm.

Good luck to ya Ben!

 

[LEB Ben]

^^^List to get the job done:

1) Ford shop manuals...check
2) Parts.....I'll have them soon
3) BFH...check
4) FTF...check



BTW...Alvin, I got another ball joint tip when reading over on FSB. Bake the knuckle at 200* for a couple hours and freeze the joint at the same time. It's said with the knuckles expansion and the bj's contraction that the joint should slip right in.

 

[Mil1ion]

Parts, Are you finally gloing to buy those parts from me?

 

[LEB Ben]

Parts, Are you finally gloing to buy those parts from me?

I don't even remember what parts we were talking about. I remember there was a discussion, but don't remember much else.

 

[LEB Ben]

I accidentally figured out what was going on with my blower fan, and it's intermittent running problems. It seems as if I go 'too far' when turning the key to start the Bronco, the fan will not come on. And with it running, if I back it off just a hair, without turning the rig off, I'll get all the fan I need/want. I can literally hear like a 'boing' sound when I back off the key and the fan starts running. So I assume the issue lies within the ignition cylinder, anyone care to diagnose what is happening or if I need a new cylinder? Thanks.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

I accidentally figured out what was going on with my blower fan, and it's
intermittent running problems. It seems as if I go 'too far' when turning
the key to start the Bronco, the fan will not come on. And with it running,
if I back it off just a hair, without turning the rig off, I'll get all the fan I
need/want. I can literally hear like a 'boing' sound when I back off the key
and the fan starts running. So I assume the issue lies within the ignition
cylinder, anyone care to diagnose what is happening or if I need a new
cylinder? Thanks.

Suppose you already-knowed-it but the boing-sound is the accessories
relay picking up for you.

A new switch isn't expensive and is easy to replace but I actually -like-
fixing the old one. I drilled and tapped for 0-80 or 1-72 machine screws
to hold my '75 F150's together and it's still going great!

All it needs is taken apart and cleaned and greased up inside with silly
cone grease. A pink pearl eraser or fine sand paper is what to finish with.
The trick is to file or sand to get rid of all the pits in the contacts, if it
has any pits.

They pulled the wire connection off of mine at least twice when they
tried to steal it, besides the times I've taken it apart and cleaned it
inside etc so the "zinc fingers" were getting kinda loose so I came up
with using machine screws to hold it together. More details on that if
needed.

Alvin in AZ

 

[Alvin in AZ]

I don't even remember what parts we were talking about.
I remember there was a discussion, but don't remember much else.

"well, I do get hit in the head a lot :/" -Dan Morino to Ace Ventura

So take it easy on 'im, Dennis.

Alvin in AZ

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks Alvin...no I didn't have a clue what the boing sound was. I'll take a look at it this weekend.

"well, I do get hit in the head a lot :/" -Dan Morino to Ace Ventura

So take it easy on 'im, Dennis.

Alvin in AZ

Ain't that the truth...thanks for looking out for me Alvin.

 

[fatherdoug]

Same problem for me, Ben, which Dennis correctly diagnosed on the 'other' site. I replaced both the cylinder and the switch, since I didn't know how old either of them were.

 

[John in AZ]

The first few times you do not need to drill & screw it. Just pry the little tab(fingers) enough so you can get it arart & clean away put back together & rebend tabs with hammer & punch

 

[Alvin in AZ]

The first few times you do not need to drill & screw it. Just pry the little
tab(fingers) {just} enough so you can get it apart & clean away put back
together & rebend tabs with hammer & punch

x2!

Alvin in AZ

 

[John in AZ]

I guess we are either just to cheap or used to having to make do with fixing stuff instead of replacing it I still remember fixing a horn relay on my first truck (73 f100) before I even knew what it was called. Lived almost an hour from any parts store & was a broke teenager anyway always figured if I broke it it needed replacing anyway.
John

 

[LEB Ben]

First off...woot woot, NPD finally has the Power assist parts from Lares in stock...and it's only looking like it'll be $450 for the parts (valve and power cylinder)...but $600 in core charges...ouch. Still haven't decided which way I wanna go with it, replacement parts or upgrade to 79 stuff. I think I'm leaning to do the 79 stuff next time Red comes apart.


Secondly...I remember a while ago, I believe it was Lee, that posted an article on converting the leaf sprung D60 to coil sprung. I searched, but can't find it...anyone happen to remember the article?


Lastly, anyone have a stock number on how much vacuum a 78 400 should be pulling at idle? Other rpm benchmarks? Finally gonna get around to fixing the intake leak on the Bronco, but I suspect there are other true issues. And is there a way to account for the drop in vacuum from the cam???


Thanks for any and all help.

 

[fatherdoug]

Ben, I measured my vacuum last summer on a stock 400 with 2 bbl carburetor and I seem to remember about 15" vacuum at idle. This is from memory only though.(Where am I?) If it wasn't so damn cold outside, I would go measure it. Idle should be about 650 rpm - warmed up)

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks man...for some reason I had 18#'s in my head, but wasn't sure.

 

[BKW]

NPD finally has the Power Assist P/S parts from Lares in stock...and it's only looking like it'll be $450 for the parts (valve and power cylinder)...but $600 in core charges...ouch.

You do know...of course...that there are TWO DIFFERENT TYPES of High Boy Power Assist P/S systems.

1973's, 1974 before serial number T80,001: GARRISON P/S.

1974's from serial number T80,001, 1975/77: BENDIX P/S.

What's wrong with your system? Leaking? Wandering steering?

Ford once supplied the seal kits, ram bushing mounting kits, draglink ball stud repair kits (and etc). Some of these parts can still be found NOS.

Why buy the whole tamale, when you may only need a coupla kits, or a draglink (or two if Garrison)?

 

[73F100Shortbed]

I think mine was around 17 or so at idle when I was setting the carburetor last.

 

[gsxr1238]

Vacuum is about 21-22" at sea level.Rule of thumb says you loose about 1" for every 1000 ft. in altitude.Ford says the engine should idle at or around 600 RPM.I have mine set at 700 RPM and works well here@4000 ft.above sea level,and pulls 17" at idle.Had to come back and include that long duration camshafts will lower your vacuum as well.

 

[LEB Ben]

You do know...of course...that there are TWO DIFFERENT TYPES of High Boy Power Assist P/S systems.

1973's, 1974 before serial number T80,001: GARRISON P/S.

1974's from serial number T80,001, 1975/77: BENDIX P/S.

What's wrong with your system? Leaking? Wandering steering?

Ford once supplied the seal kits, ram bushing mounting kits, draglink ball stud repair kits (and etc). Some of these parts can still be found NOS.

Why buy the whole tamale, when you may only need a coupla kits, or a draglink (or two if Garrison)?

Thanks Bill. And yeah, I knew the two systems, and I have the Bendix system. We actually discussed replacement parts a couple years ago, and I picked them up. It seemed to hold together for a little while, then started leaking again (the valve). Then about a year ago, I had a local hydraulic shop try their hand and the valve, stopped leaking for about 6 months...but it always pulled right, the pull got progressively worse and the leak is worse than ever. At the last valve failure, the power cylinder started leaking...I assume that's just a seal issue. But to my understanding, the re-sealing process of the cylinder isn't something I want to do.

I think mine was around 17 or so at idle when I was setting the carburetor last.

Thanks Sean. I coulda saved myself this work, because I usually put a good thick bead of sealer on both sides of the front and rear intake seals on my 335's. Well, since I was at my buddy's shop, he decided to interject, and I listened...and last week I noticed the Bronco was running like pure chit, popped the hood and noticed both seals were blown out...one was sitting under the dizzy and the other by the oil SU.

Vacuum is about 21-22" at sea level.Rule of thumb says you loose about 1" for every 1000 ft. in altitude.Ford says the engine should idle at or around 600 RPM.I have mine set at 700 RPM and works well here@4000 ft.above sea level,and pulls 17" at idle.Had to come back and include that long duration camshafts will lower your vacuum as well.

Thanks for the info.