Just fixed it, kinked fuel line. I guess the hassel of feeding the filler tube over the frame and back to the neck I forgot to watch the fuel lines. I dropped the tank and pulled the lines and was sprayed with gas, so I new gas was goin thru. So I started to follow the lines found nothing...

So when you turn the key to the on position without starting, the sound you hear from the fuel pump getting primed is the sound I hear. I start the truck using the front tank, after it's idling I switch to the rear tank and it's a constant sound of the fuel pump priming and the truck dies cause...

1990 f250

So where is this switching mechanism located I've searched for parts and nothing is coming up.

Can it be the switching mechanism even though the truck runs when I have the switch on the front tank. Once I switch it to the rear tank it reads what's in the rear tank at a 1/4 tank and just dies. When the switch is on the front tank it reads a full tank and stays running perfectly fine.

Are you willing to buy a new tranny. I had a similar issue but would do it after 40. Rebuilt the tranny to a heavy duty 4r100 version with nothing being fixed. Luckily the guy had a reputation and gave me a 2 year warranty. Took him almost 6 months to get it goin normally again. Last thing he...

I just replaced my rear fuel tank, brand new tank and pump. I know the fuel lines were a pain to get off even using the correct tool( trucks almost 30 years old). When I put in the new tank I was unable to get the fuel lines to snap on. So after an hour or more of trying and trying (even tried...

I think Im going to try and fabricate some, with some 1/8 think metal straps and some machine screws and nuts. I have an idea in my head let's see if I thought it all out to make it work.

I went and looked at it today and unless I pull the pump it won't work they are in line of each other, or a dummy pulley might work. The engine is the 460, a different layout than the smaller engines.

This part

Does anybody know what the silver piece of metal that attaches to the tail gate is called. Usually has a red or black stripe through it with Ford to one side. This thing has been bugging me for years with the rattle on dirt roads, the black plastic brackets are broken and don't hold it tight...

My cats are long gone. So my chances are is that some of those tubes are just dangling anyways. Also if I bypass the pulley do you know what size of belt. I'm not interested in power gain just less stuff in the way when working in the bay.

I'm interested on clearing up some of my engine bay. I've seen threads on bypassing the smog pump and pulling out some of the tubes and hoses. I'm fortunate enough not to have to worry about emissions tests. Is their any benefit to keeping it or removing it. Thanks for the info

So a quick update, so finally found a trustworthy transmission shop. Left it for a day so they can run a few tests on it and the conclusion is transmission is on the verge of breakdown. I've been driving it the past week or so as much as I can since I have most of the money available, and its on...

I've been limiting the amount I drive the truck to about one trip a week in hopes of at least making it to the rebuild. Today I drove the truck for over an hour up and down the highway up to 70 mph and down to 45 and nothing happened, so I'm guessing it has to be heat related since all summer...

Oh I've heard about putting the internals of the 4r100 into the e40d for a beefed up tranny, anybody hear of this??

Given up on hopes of a cheap fix. Nobody has been able to point me in any direction other than shoulder shrugs. Best advice I've gotten is drive it til it brakes, anything internal will be expensive anyways so just rebuild it. This is my plan, I've been waiting for tax season to get it done...

So many of you have seen my post to my trans problems. I still have not got a good diagnosis but my plan of attack is a rebuild. I've heard to many different guesses from valve body's to torque converter and clutches. That's why I choose complete rebuild to fix whatever it is, rather then...

So I've gotten the truck running to find out no of these parts fixed the problem. I've even done both the speed sensors. I recorded a short video of my trans acting up at highway speeds but it won't upload to the site. I'm wondering if it could be the valve bodies, I've came across a ton of TSB...

Hey do you guys have an answer to the problem. I've been having the same issue and can't figure it out

So it turns out from all the unplugging and re plugging and taking apart the harness broke off one side of the flange. The flange I'm talking about is at the end of the wire where it is kind of c-shaped that the blade from the neutral safety switch makes contact. The wire that broke was the one...

There's no signal at the green wire on top of the solenoid, which from what I understand comes from the ignition the open the circuit to let the power through to the starter. Correct me if I'm wrong

Neutral safety and solenoid are brand new, even had my buddy at the parts counter exchange them saying they were defective. As far as battery the post are as clean as a whistle, even thinking that the spark left residue I scraped them to fresh contact. Plus with the volt meter I'm getting 12...

So I recently replaced my neutral safety switch and I accidentally crossed a wire. When I started it there was a spark on my negative battery side and everything shut off, lights and all. Checked my notes rewired correctly and the truck won't start. I've tried replacing the solenoid and a new...

Oh and I also put a new starter relay/solenoid, thinking that was the problem. Fooled again.

Oh and by the way I hooked up a code reader and no codes are coming up. Would a bad MLPS or PCM throw a code???

So I replace the wires in the original position that I had written down, still no start. I got my hands on a volt meter and checked the power out of the battery with and with out try to start it seems good. Checked the power to the starter solenoid with and without starting, seems good. Checked...

I going to need some help here with the mlps wires they seem to be the culprit. I just got done wiring the solenoid harness and the truck definitely was running better than before, with the check engin light still on. I scanned the codes and I guess I bought a faulty tps cause that was the code...

No chance of an motor oil leak because I've never had one for it to get to those wires, so I doubt valve cover. I did have my power steering line give out but not a huge leak, and that is on the other side of the engine. Only thing I can come up with is when I flushed my trans cooler lines...

So I got a problem that I didn't expect. I finally got the wire harness for the solenoid pack and to.e to work on it. When I pulled the harness apart there was oil inside, any ideas where it could be from. Seams to be motor oil cause its gold to brown in color, but not sure why that would be...