Not starting

[Bedlinedf250]

So I recently replaced my neutral safety switch and I accidentally crossed a wire. When I started it there was a spark on my negative battery side and everything shut off, lights and all. Checked my notes rewired correctly and the truck won't start. I've tried replacing the solenoid and a new neutral safety switch with no response. I've used a volt meter to check for power, there's power goin to the solenoid but not to the starter. When I turn the key I hear a click a single click and that's it. I've had it a a mechanic for a few days and all he could tell me is what I already know, there's power but no signal to start. He's checked the ignition switch and solenoid double checked the neutral safety and all is good. WTF we can't find the problem. When we bridge the solenoid post it starts and runs like a champ. Any info would be great we've had the most rain in many years here and I'm the only truck in my neighborhood not playing in the mudd. It's been outta commission for almost six weeks and I need to get out camping.

 

[fatherdoug]

I'm leaning toward new starter solenoid?

 

[Big Jim F150]

Is it possible that you might have gotten a neutral safety switch that might have been bad? I had put three neutral safety switches on my 78 F-150, and that the first two neutral safety switches were duds. Even brand new ones out of the box can be bad. Also check your starter solenoid too. Also go back to the Generation 6 forum and look for a post titled Neutral Safety Switch by Big Jim F150 and read my post about that problem with the neutral safety switch, and also please read the replies that others have written explaining what to do. You'll find some good info in that post. Hopefully you'll find my post on the neutral safety switch helpful to you.

 

[Fellro]

So I recently replaced my neutral safety switch and I accidentally crossed a wire. When I started it there was a spark on my negative battery side and everything shut off, lights and all. Checked my notes rewired correctly and the truck won't start. I've tried replacing the solenoid and a new neutral safety switch with no response. I've used a volt meter to check for power, there's power goin to the solenoid but not to the starter. When I turn the key I hear a click a single click and that's it. I've had it a a mechanic for a few days and all he could tell me is what I already know, there's power but no signal to start. He's checked the ignition switch and solenoid double checked the neutral safety and all is good. WTF we can't find the problem. When we bridge the solenoid post it starts and runs like a champ. Any info would be great we've had the most rain in many years here and I'm the only truck in my neighborhood not playing in the mudd. It's been outta commission for almost six weeks and I need to get out camping.

The bolded parts tell the story. Clean your battery terminals, you are losing connection. It recovers enough to show power when you aren't trying to spin it, but as soon as you put the large load of trying to spin the engine over, it drops connection. And find a different mechanic, this one has no clue. Can't say how many times I have dealt with these issues.

 

[Bedlinedf250]

Neutral safety and solenoid are brand new, even had my buddy at the parts counter exchange them saying they were defective. As far as battery the post are as clean as a whistle, even thinking that the spark left residue I scraped them to fresh contact. Plus with the volt meter I'm getting 12 volts at the solenoid post( while cranking), but nothing to the starter.

 

[Bedlinedf250]

There's no signal at the green wire on top of the solenoid, which from what I understand comes from the ignition the open the circuit to let the power through to the starter. Correct me if I'm wrong

 

[Fellro]

How about the inside of the cable ? I have seen oxidized but "clean" terminals cause trouble. You also want 12.5 v at the battery. It will drop lower when cranking.

Are all other electrical functions working? Headlights, and everything? Fusible link is also possible to have failed. And yes, the wire should be powering the solenoid.Also be sure all the eyelet connectors at the solenoid are getting power through, as that is where the rest of the chassis gets electrical power.

 

[dustybumpers]

The ignition switch on top of the column is bad. This is a common problem in this era truck. I've been through so many in my 80-90's trucks I keep a spare one in a drawer in my workbenck
It could be as easy as an adjustment of the switch, so drop the column down and try that first, before you buy
They run about $68 at Advanced

 

[blacksnapon]

Fusible link.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

You can easily test the solenoid by jumping it with a screwdriver. If it starts, it's your problem. If it doesn't start, your breakdown is somewhere else.

Ryan

 

[Fellro]

He has been starting it that way. I kinda missed that part of the post as well, so had to go to the alternate question which hasn't really been responded to just yet. Vince went for the same target I was thinking.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Oh I breezed over that, he used the word 'bridged' and it didn't connect in my humble brain.

Ryan

 

[Bedlinedf250]

So it turns out from all the unplugging and re plugging and taking apart the harness broke off one side of the flange. The flange I'm talking about is at the end of the wire where it is kind of c-shaped that the blade from the neutral safety switch makes contact. The wire that broke was the one that goes to the ignition to start the truck. Anyways the mechanic had to cut the one wire and soldered on a new piece to make good contact. Everything works great. Thanks everybody for the help.

 

[Big Jim F150]

That's really good news, you're very welcome, that's what we are all here for is to help each other with our knowledge and experiences with these trucks.