AFE or Wix/napa (6637). Ither of the 2 are great.

My diesel gets 18-20mpg with the mods below. 35s w/ 4.10s e4od. I atchually gained milage by adding power.. LOL

the 3/4 ton front end isnt much stronger or worth the work of swapping axles. You would want to put a solid axle dana 60 in..... The 1 ton front end.

well there is 2 types of slaves you can get. being a 5spd 7.3 you slave is external, not internal like shown.If your lucky you got a slave with a bleeding valve. which would be like bleeding a brake for a car or truck. If yours doesnt. You will have to "bench Bleed" it... When i bench bleed...

+1 for soaking the bolts. Like said dont mist it on, soak them and re soak

runing a turbo that way will not give you any power. all your boost will blow out thru the other blade of the throttle body. I had a 1/2" slice in a boost coupling, lost all 35+lbs of boost on my truck when it happend. a 2" throttle body hole will let all the boost out.

if you want to remove the smog pump and still re use the same belt, you can get a smog elimator bracket for a 86-93 5.0L mustang. there the excact same bracket for ford trucks and mustangs.Im not to sure how you would loose milage from doing that. You emmisions may get worse- but not milage...

my friend had one in his 355 v8 s10... custom paint, air bagged...show truck was in minitruckin mag a few times. We put a aluminum fuel cell in his truck... sat right in the bed, clearly visible .... cops looked at it numerious times. Looked the one posted above. 2 years of driving(he sold...

sounds like the converter to me

thats a good deal even if there not alum.

Taking the bulb out is much more better fix. LOL

Good drifting! Watching that clip reminds me of a part off this vid. http://www.streetfire.net/video/86-stang-306-last-day-out-season-06-all-day_34961.htm

The 1st purchase you should do is a good set of heads!!!I cant stress enough on how spending good money on heads will out perform those cheaper ones!!!!! Spending 300$ on a TB is useless when you could spend that $300 to upgrade for a better set of heads... ,If I were you, and the motor is...

A stock 351 block can handle 700+hp, thats even 40 over with a 4" stroker crank. I would highly doubt that he is building a 700hp street efi truck... If your shooting for over 800, a 69-71 351w block is ok, but then you start to step up to the aftermarket blocks. Anything under 700hp spending...

Well sir the next time you try to fight an argument with someone who knows what there talking about, you should at least try to understand what there saying.How could you be uncertian on something your so content on explaining. The hose is ither bypassing coolant or not. There is no inline...

Oh my god.....Leave it you to have such a hard time with something so simple, lol.To dumb down what ive been saying:That 5/16ID Hose off the throttle body that connects to the rad has the same effect on the engine as if you were to drill a 5/16" hole thru the thermostat.:headbang: FWIW a...

I ment run the engine with it not connected to anything at all

Your not getting the point at all.try this: Pull your lower intake off. You will see that coolant runs from both heads and connects together right behind the thermostat. In that connection point behind the thermostat on the roof of the intake is a hole, that hole will have a hose attached that...

LOL, well it was also at 202hp at 17:1 at 5300rpm before the dyno operator let off the gas... AF ratio was rising good. and I dont really care on HP on this build, as long as it drives good and starts everyday. My diesel is the hot rod/money pit. Always fun when you blow the doors off...

No spacer, its tall enough haha. I Hit the dyno last week 202.4rwhp/300tq at the tires, Air fuel ratio wasnt up to par, that was because of the ported intake and trickflow cam and speed denisty comuter. 500/510". So I bought a BBK adjustable thats oringally for a mustang, But i knew it would...

good job buddy i wish the track here was that long... LOL

Oh yea, And if you were to look up drilling holes in theromstats, the drill bit size hole is 1/8", you would put 2 if you were driving a drag car and wanted a cooler engine through out the day, 1 hole was consitered plenty for daily driver. not a 5/16 LOL. I dont need a billion posts here to...

The temp guage would go down. Pure water transfer heat better then anitfreeze.LOL ok unplug that hose and run the engine, See how long the engine will stay cool. thats a 5/16" line coming off the TB. Ive pulled it off numerious times on engines ive built and that little line transfers a good...

when you were cranking it over trying to get it started, did the tach read that it was cranking over?

If you had a vacuum leak you would have a hard time steering when not moving, or it would take for ever to change from vent,defrost,floor. Diesels dont create vacuum, they have a pump driven off the belt to create vacuum. I betcha its what blackspoon said, an exhaust leak... Easy to tell by...

You could also try pouring pure antifreeze, Pure antifreeze does not transfer heat aswell as pure water or 50/50 mix. That way you would run a little warmer.

Ok well whats your guys idea on why the motor isnt warming up?Pinching the RUBBER part line shut with vice grips will stop flow from the engine to rad thru that hose.. That will make the thermostat do its job of letting the engine warm up. Temporly pinching wont trap the coolant in the...

Hey fordtoy91 clamp some vise grips on the hose were talking about to pinch it shut. Then run the motor for a bit and shoot the temps.

Good choice

well ive only seen 5.0s from trucks and mustangs. Wouldnt it make more sence if the return line from the TB ran back to the motor not the rad????