warped rotors

[Raptor22]

Not sure... This was just what Andy told me. Perhaps I misunderstood what he said, but I didn't question it since he was more of an expert than me.

What happened to Andy anyway? Both of them actually?

 

[Skandocious]

I dunno I guess he just got real busy with his life.. I talk to him on text messages or on the phone every once in a while... I wish he'd come back-- he knows a lot about these trucks.

 

[Raptor22]

I dunno I guess he just got real busy with his life.. I talk to him on text messages or on the phone every once in a while... I wish he'd come back-- he knows a lot about these trucks.

Yeah, that would be cool.

I wonder what happened to the other Andy (man)....

 

[mrfixit]

Rotors can be shipped warped, and warp on the vehicle as well. The can leave the factory true and straight, and warp on their first hill. It all comes down to the manufacturing process and the dissimilarity in alloys.
If the rotor doesn't cool evenly, its temper is uneven. Heating it up will make it expand and contract abnormally. Same with different metals used in the alloys. (yes, steel is an alloy, too) If it's not perfectly blended at casting, again, you will have different rates of expansion and contraction and wear.
Switching to porcelain pads can aggrevate the problem. They wear much longer, but can also create a lot more heat without the tell-tale smell to give you the warning.
I always get mine turned, every pad change. Hairline checking can occur, and turning will indicate whether this has happened or not. Yes, if it's checked, you gotta replace them, but I'd rather replace than have them frag somewhere down the road- LITERALLY.

 

[countryboytn]

Haven't seen what milage things go through rotors/pads expect the lumina, and we got 80k out of the front pads/rotors, and 135k or so out of the back pads and calipers, still running the same rotors.

I figure I will be able to get 60k out of the front, and 100k out of the back if we keep that car that long, cause I tend to be harder on the brakes then my parents. (A tank of gas dont last as long either, but I can't help it! )


I think our rotors might be warped a little though, cause under moderate to hard braking, you can feel the peddle pulsing. I asked dad if he had felt it, and he said it had been like that for years and it wasn't a big deal.

 

[Fordzilla80]

LOL,Ya'll think your rotors are bad,you should see mine....

BUT,I don't drive my truck.lol.

For those who can't tell,the rotors have pretty deep ridges in them.When I run my finger across the surface,it goes up and down like on a hill.lol.

I think my pads froze against the rotors when the truck sat for 3 years,and then when we bought it and pulled it up onto the trailer,they freed,but they grinded against each other,digging out the rotors.

 

[flareside_thunder]

Don't school start for you Monday?

 

[mrfixit]

I think our rotors might be warped a little though, cause under moderate to hard braking, you can feel the peddle pulsing. I asked dad if he had felt it, and he said it had been like that for years and it wasn't a big deal.

That sounds more like ABS kicking in.

 

[countryboytn]

That sounds more like ABS kicking in.

I didn't think it had ABS though?


How could I find out? (other than trying to lock the brakes up from about 50mph )

 

[Old_Paint]

Answer to life of brake pads.

Get a manual transmission and use engine braking.

I swapped my first set of front pads at 135K, just because I wanted to. They still had plenty life in them, but I was experiencing the notorious wet pad grab after every damp night. First time the brakes were used each day, if you weren't strapped in, you'd find yourself up on the dashboard. New pads resolved that, but only temporarily. Doing it again now. Rotors are still smooth as a baby's butt. Rear shoes are the ones that came on it from the factory, now at 165K and counting. My brake fluid went bad before anything else in the braking system. It turned into some kind of nasty black sludge. Brakes were still workin fine, though. I bought about 3 quarts of Dot 3 fluid, and flushed the system. Nary a leak in master or any wheel cylinder/caliper.

I do like a manual transmission. Some may ask about the clutch. Umm, master and slave finally gave up at about 145K. I'll take one clutch over 3-5 sets of brake pads any time. A bit more trouble to put in, but engine braking isn't really any harder on it than starting off. I don't ride a clutch. I get off it as soon as possible to slip it as little as possible. And no, still no really significant problems with my M5OD, either.