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Tranny slip

Brian you are correct about overfilling, and it is just as serious in the newer transmissions. Overfilling, even by just a couple quarts, can bring serious damage to the transmission; blows seals.

And I can't recall if I've got it on mine, but some vehicles have "hot fill" marks on one side of the dipstick and lower "cold fill" marks on the opposite side. Something to check ;)


I have seen serious problems and not quite as serious of problems by overfilling the older ones. Depends on how overfull they are I guess.

I have seen tons of cases where someone dropped the pan (dumping maybe 5 or 6 quarts) and fill with the 11 or 12 the book says. I have seen several posts asking why fluid is pouring out of their transmission after a fluid change. They were not aware there around half the fluid is in the torque converter.

Never saw (or maybe never noticed [confused]) a double labeled dipstick. That is something to look for though.
 
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i drained both pan and TC, filled with 13 qts of mercon V thats when i could read it on stick, running and in park
 

Black150

California Chapter member
169
1
So Cal
:(
Haven't seen it mentioned so............

I always check the fluid level by driving it around the block, parking it on level ground, shift through every gear while parked, putting it back in park, and then checking it.

Did that make sense? Sounds weird when i read it back [confused]
 
:(
Haven't seen it mentioned so............

I always check the fluid level by driving it around the block, parking it on level ground, shift through every gear while parked, putting it back in park, and then checking it.

Did that make sense? Sounds weird when i read it back [confused]
Someone might say something about it. I said warm in a statement above and I got a come back. Warm to me is you bring the truck to normal operating temp and every thing has stabilized. I know the dipstick says HOT but I am not going to put something in front of the radiator until it steams and then check it.
But what you wrote sounds good to me.
 
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ok si want to run this by you guys now.. was talking to a guy at work, he says it sounds like its my valve body sticking.. which kinda makes some sense cause it feels like it pulls out of gear when it gets to the shift point.. think so?
 
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just drained the pan and TC and put new fluid in, did it 188k and its not 193k
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Well "valve body sticking" doesnt really make any sense... The valve bodies are just a series of veins and some springs... Having removed the valve bodies from my transmission, I can't think of anything in there that could "stick". Now the solenoids in the solenoid pack could be sticking (for some strange reason). But I think the only way to remedy that would be to just replace the solenoid pack, gambling on whether or not it would even fix anything.

As I said before, I think the first step would be to get some fresh, good quality, Mercon/Dextron III fluid in there; it's relatively cheap and pretty easy to do. If that doesn't work then we can go from there.


EDIT: Just remember that I have pictures of the valve bodies from when I took them down. Perhaps this will help you visualize what I'm talking about...


Valve bodies still attached to transmission, + solenoid pack on the far left:
IMG_0003.jpg



Solenoid Pack:
IMG_0006.jpg




Valve bodies removed:
IMG_0010.jpg




Misc shots of the removed pieces (valve bodies, separator plate, spring removed from valve body, etc)
IMG_0012.jpg

IMG_0013.jpg

IMG_0017.jpg

IMG_0018.jpg

IMG_0019.jpg

IMG_0022.jpg

IMG_0023.jpg








So as you can see, there just aren't a lot of moving parts... The springs are the only things that move and the construction only allows them to move a couple millimeters back and forth. Now I suppose the valve bodies could get CLOGGED, but I don't believe there'd be any way for them to "stick".
 
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ok, good to know.. hopefully the fluid change will help.. if not i dont know where to go
 
Yes...valves in the valve body can get "sticky" in a transmission if the clutch packs are worn and they get gunk in them. They can also stick (as in not move at all) if there are metal shaving getting pulled through the transmission. That can ruin a valve body.


Then again, by that point...you have a lot of other serious issues to worry about. If your fluid is clean (I have not read the whole thread), that is not an issue.
 
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the magnet was clean when i dropped the pan, so im not too worried bout that, unless something went seriously wrong.. just gunna do what skan said, replace fluid with merc 3, he hasnt failed me yet lol
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
the magnet was clean when i dropped the pan
That's a very good sign. The dust that you normally find on the magnet is clutch dust-- comes from the torque converter (think metal plates slipping past one another). A bit of clutch dust on the magnet is perfectly normal, but if you've gather a lot in a small amount of time you've probably got a problem. And the bigger concern is when you see large flakes or chunks.
 
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the tranny was rebuilt 45k ago...

i was at work today.. talkin bout my truck, they ALL say Merc V is the same thing as Merc III... one did say that Merc V is synthetic... i still trusk what skan says though... i just HOPE my trannys not toast
 

Lost

PA Chapter leader
3,288
33
central PA
The skipping out like in neutral is the MPLS on side of tranny . But u have other symtoms I never had when it went bad.

Mine is acting up also. Mine only has 30000on it and no heavy loads . I got more in trans in last 3 trucks (7 years) than I spent on my First truck new.

I might just take the ZF I found and keep it .
 
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can anyone show where this MLPS is? cause i have a weird feeling its something electrical that i may have disturbed while i was changing the fluid... and also because if i stop and shut the truck of for at least 10 mins, it stops
 
can anyone show where this MLPS is? cause i have a weird feeling its something electrical that i may have disturbed while i was changing the fluid... and also because if i stop and shut the truck of for at least 10 mins, it stops
The MLPS is #7 in the diagram below.

E4OD.jpg


MLPSsensorE4OD.jpg


Manual Lever Position (MLP) Sensor 7A247:

Description: The powertrain control module sends voltage to the manual lever position sensor. The manual lever position sensor incorporates a series of step-down resistors which act as a voltage divider. The powertrain control module monitors this voltage which corresponds to the position of the gearshift selector lever (P, R, N, (D), 2 or 1). The powertrain control module uses this information to determine the desired gear and electronic pressure control pressure. The manual lever position sensor is located on the outside of the transmission at the gearshift selector lever.

Transmission Function: Used as an input to determine desired gear and electronic pressure control.

Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 67 (two digit), 634, 654, 659, 667, 668 (three digit). (Code 67 also displays if A/C is on during On-Board Diagnostic or On-Board Diagnostic run in neutral.)
/
 
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hmmm.... so tomorow i think i might venture and change the fluid... i trusk you guys here more than work... everyone at work says it wont make a difference, but one of my co-workers said the key word "synthetic"... wo im definetly changing

did a coolant flush today too.. wont help tranny much lol

call me stupid, but i just learned that mercon is a TYPE of fluid, i thought it was specific to motorcraft lol... soo now a question, what brand fluid should i buy?
 
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