Timing set replacement question

[jnichol]

I finally got around to checking the lash on my timing chain and found an inch of slack (previously I set the timing and the mark didn't jump as I've seen in the past with a loose chain). Anyway it looks like next weekend it needs to happen. My question is if anyone has a trick to help bust loose the main crank bolt while using a breaker bar. My 1986 F150 302 has an AOD and the motor is going to turn, is there an easy way to lock it down? Any other advice on this project is welcome.

Thanks for any ideas,
Jim

 

[5.0Flareside]

Impact gun. Easiest way.

 

[LEB Ben]

^^^Impact is where it's at. However, before I learned the way of air tools, I was in the same boat as you when swapping out the timing set on my 79 Bronco. What I ended up doing was...I had a 1.5" diameter x 4' long piece of rod, I wedged it underneath/behind the crank pulley (being careful not bend the pulley)...used the inner fender as the pivot point, and had my dad hang on the other end of the rod (keep in mind that was about 400lbs). I had minimal slippage. I used my 1/2" drive ratchet with 15/16" socket and quick hit the bolt in a jerky fashion to get it to break loose...being mindful and 'feeling' the bolt in an effort not to sheer the head off. After a couple quick jerks, the bolt broke loose. Probably took 2-3 minutes to get it done.


Outside of that...I've heard of guys that have good luck by pulling the inspection plate on the trans and jamming up the flywheel with a screw driver or something. I always ended up bending the driver or it falls out, and it didn't work for me.

 

[jnichol]

Thanks for the advice, the breaker bar sounds like a bad idea. I don't mind busting my knuckles but I sure don't want to hurt my truck. Think I'll see about replacing my impact gun, maybe a cheap one at Harbor Freight will save a lot of time and replacement parts. My air compressor and tank still work fine.

Again thanks for the heads up,
Jim

 

[jnichol]

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1950&stc=1&d=1318873437

Finally got around to getting the timing chain replaced. It turned out to be factory original, well worth getting it done.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

(I normalized that file and bent it back, never pry with a regular file!)
(on FTE a guy's friend lost an eye prying with a file!)

Get a strip of mild steel and drill two 3/8" holes in it, a certain distance apart
and as close to the edge as you need to (grind some relief into it between
the holes later if you need to) then slip two 3/8" bolts through the holes in
it and the harmonic balancer and you've got a handle you can slip a cheater
pipe onto and feel the bolt tighten like you would any other.

It's freaky to me how this isn't common knowledge or Lisle doesn't make one.

That one was a little tricky to make for the '75 360FE since it's got to be
"just right" but it fit sloppy as anything on the '91 351w. Placement of the
holes in it for your 302 will be easier.

{edit: Oops I got distracted and didn't read the whole thread LOL}
For right now you can bump the engine to -loosen- the bolt using a ratchet
and long cheater pipe, "be sure the engine don't start" is always mentioned
by those that's used that method. I've never needed to.

Alvin in AZ
ps-
I advanced the cam timing 4 degrees on the '91 351w+ZF for more low-end
grunt. Worked great! But I don't recommend it for those with automatics.
pps-
I bent back a bunch of old files like that to make knives from but found out
rusty ones don't re-heat treat worth anything. :/ It's ok to be old but rusty
ruins it from hydrogen (protons) soaked into the steel.
ppps-
See the chipped teeth on that file? It was used to clinch horseshoe nails.
I wanted to give it back to the cowboy that gave it to me but that plan got
changed after learning (the hard way) about steel being ruined by hydrogen.