Steam coming out my heater vents

[catatonichampster]

Guys, I assume this is my heater core? When I started it this morning (I do this sometimes before I catch the bus for school) When it warmed up, steam covered the windshield. I would like to know how would you rate this job. Is it a difficult repair? Do you suppose it's something I can handle? Thanks for input.

DTM

 

[LEB Ben]

Super simple job...can get tight if you have an A/C truck, but not bad. Open the glovebox, pop the liner out and if it's non-A/C you'll see the heater core. A couple screws and unclamping hoses...and you're basically done.

 

[catatonichampster]

I thank ya Ben. I'll get after it this weekend.

 

[Beach66Bum]

Hi Dylan,
would be a good time to check ALL hoses, and also check the condition of the anti-freeze. Winterize now while the really cold weather hasn't arrived
(oh, and put windshield wiper anti-freeze in too, don't want the tank to crack)

Roy

 

[catatonichampster]

Thanks Gentlemen,

Hey Roy, I still have the 'bag' that holds the windshield washer fluid. Kinda cool huh? And it doesn't leak! Yea, that's a good plan. I think I'll just drain all coolant and replace with new. About a half & half mixture, correct?

Also, my tires have like 80 pounds in them. Alll of them. I didn't do this. I just checked them and figure that's way to much pressure for not hauling anything. I guess no wonder it rides like it has square wheels. I just thought the hard ride was it's nature. A reduction in pressure in my mind will help greatly! Can I take them down to about __? for winter driving? Thank you

DTM

 

[Beach66Bum]

ha, that's cool we just had a thread about tire pressure Dylan, and you're right, unless you're carrying a load in the back, you can decrease the tire pressure to around 75% of the recommended tire pressure when cold. Will still handle rough, but hey, all part of owning a cool old truck!!!

 

[LEB Ben]

Average weight of load/max load of tire= XX%

XX%*max psi=psi you want to run

I find that I usually prefer something in the 80% range of max psi.

 

[Workin' Rig]

I always run my tires at max PSI...it rides hard but gives you the best MPG...and you need all you can get with these old trucks.

 

[LEB Ben]

I always run my tires at max PSI...it rides hard but gives you the best MPG...and you need all you can get with these old trucks.

Probably cost you a few thousand miles over the life of a tire due to crowning. It really depends on how much better your mpg's are when at max psi...if you see .2 mpg improvement or 2mpg improvement. At .2 you'll be replacing tires more frequently and probably end up in the hole. Vice versa for the 2mpg.

 

[Workin' Rig]

On my Colorado i notice a considerable difference, on the F250 not so much. Must have something to do with engine torque.

 

[catatonichampster]

Heater coil

I took the box out of the glove compartment today. That was terrible in it's self. Someone had glued it in and I had to tear it to pieces to get it out. That severely bummed me out! I hate to say but no, it was not 'right there' all I saw was the top of the blower housing. The coil was no where in site. Oh, mine is not an A/C unit. What do I have to do guys? I see three bolts under the hood around where the coil ends stick through into the engine compartment. Do these bolts hold the coil/blower housing in place? Will I have to remove the blower/coil housing entirely? I am just having trouble seeing what needs to come apart to get to the coil. Thanks for any further info.

DTM

 

[Fellro]

I know on my old 75, I had to take the whole dash out...

 

[LEB Ben]

Not really sure what else tell you, maybe this will help:

Mine a 72 f250 no AC. 7 screws for glove box liner, all the rest are 3/16. 3 top the right one goes down into the blower housing and also has blower ground attatched. 4 holding blower motor on housing. 3 just underneath the blower and 2 just to the right of that going up through the housing. The 2 vent cable controls behind the air outlets on the housing are also 3/16.

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5561

 

[DNFXDLI]

1970 manual, but I think it is the same procedure...haven't got to the '67 yet..or the rest of the '70 manual

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29992

 

[1970Custom]

Yes you have to remove the blower housing, if memory serves those bolts/nuts (can't remember which) are what hold it in place then follow as Ben stated...

I know posting other sites isn't always looked upon but www.fordification.com is the best place for bumpside information as that is what the site is dedicated to. They have just about every piece of info for the 67-72 F-Series and a bang up group of members.

 

[catatonichampster]

I got it guys! The old one was copper. The new, aluminum. All is good, no leaks. Hey, I kinda tore up the cardboard box glove box liner getting it out. But I fixed it nice! Looks awesome! I used gorilla tape to piece it back together. Then I sprayed it all over with the rubber stuff you like use in the truck bed. I put three coats on it. It's better than it was when it was new. It turned out really nice.

Thanks again for the help guys. I won't have to scrape the inside of the windshield this winter.

 

[Beach66Bum]

Awesome Dylan,
what a great fix for the glove box, you should post a few pic's!

 

[LEB Ben]

Glad you got it done...hindsight being 20/20 and now that you know what you're doing...grade the difficulty...

 

[Workin' Rig]

Gotta be eaiser then doing one on a 2000 F150....

That was like a 20 out of 10.

 

[catatonichampster]

Hey Ben, I personally would grade the replacement of the heater core in a 1967 f250, 4WD without A/C. Once I sat back and really took a look at the job it got easier as I thought about it and really got serious about getting it done. 1-10, with 10 being the toughest. For me, it was a 3.

'Workin' rig ? on a 2000? I probably would have taken it to a pro. I don't trust my skills all that well.