Now trans. is acting up!

[86FordF150]

Well after fixing numerous problems on my truck, as in the past have been discussed on this board as most all of you likely are aware of. After using the 4 wheel drive in some mud the other day(a lot more water than mud though) and after I was done, of course, I put it in park, got out, unlocked the hubs, and got in put it in to 2 wheel drive, and I drove down a stretch of road and it wasn't shifting out of first gear. Finally after about a whole mile or farther of driving 15-20 mph and it not wanting to shift out of first, I gunned it and it finally shifted into second and then third, and then it shifted somewhat normal after that for many cruising miles. Then I took it home, and figured that it worked out of it. Well, next day I drive it, first gear just drags out like a mutha and it still don't want to shift but after it warms up a bit it does. What's the problem here? I don't think this truck will be seeing any major water/mud action for quite some time, even after I can figure this out. Very frustrating guys, very frustrating.. Keep in mind too that this truck never has shifted exactly "smooth" by any means since I bought it, so it probably does need a trans. rebuild but if I can make it shift at least normally and not dragging out first on cold starts then I can live with the rough shifting for a while but more than likely within the next 2-3 months I can see a trans. rebuild in the works. Might have the trans. flushed out and have the filter changed to see if that'll help any, if there is any chance that I did get mud or water in the trans, somehow.

 

[bowtiehatr]

water can do some funny things. you could have gotten water in the fluid. auto OD, im guessing the AOD tranny? cant remember. you could have water in a connector as well. change your fluid and see if it does any better.

 

[mrfixit]

Have you checked for codes?
E4OD / 4R100 transmission frequently have problems with poor line rise and / or soft shifts. These complaints are often caused by severe wear of the pressure regulator sleeve, allowing EPC and reverse boost oil leakage.
You may experience:
Poor line rise, Delayed reverse, Harsh 1-2, Code 62, TCC failure, Clutch & band failure, Wrong gear starts, Poor 2-3, 3-4 shifts, as well as Excessive endplay, OD lube failure and Loose OD retaining ring.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

does this year have a nuetral safety switch on the side of the transmission? If it does, unplug it and clean out both ends of the wire harness. Before you put it back on, use some electrical grease on the connectors.

Ryan

 

[86FordF150]

Yeah it is the overdrive automatic trans. It never has shifted smooth since I got it but heck I didn't expect it to really since it has at least 144(possibly 244 but im assuming 144thousand miles) thousand on the odometer, and probably a rough 144 thousand miles at that! But if I can make it last long enough until maybe income tax time or something then that would be great, but I am afraid that if I keep driving it the way it is it'll just get worse, so I am not driving it until I can get around to changing the fluids. If that don't work then might have to actually do all myself since everyplace wants over 100 dollars just to flush and change the filter. Not sure if I want to change the filter myself since the pan has to be dropped.

 

[mrfixit]

Changing the filter yourself can really make you ONE with your truck, though! LOL... It's not as hard as it seems, really. get a good-sized pan and a large round trash can lid. (I just bought a large plastic garbage can and cut it off at 7 or so inches; made a nice pan) drill several 1/4" holes in the center of the lid and turn it upside-down on the pan... you now have a drain pan similar to what the pros use!
Unbolt the pan, removing the row of bolts to the rear first. you can drop the bolts right onto the lid, as it keeps them from falling down into the fluid in the pan. Then only loosen the rest about a half turn. Then, starting at the rear, remove one bolt from each side sequentially towards the front. as you do this, you will notice the end of the pan droop, and fluid starts to drip off the end. you can even tweak one side to literally pour the fluid from a corner! as you reach the front, loosen each bolt about a turn at a time until they too are out, but you want to be giving the pan a little support with your free hand so the edge does not bend. pour the remaining fluid into your drain, and inspect the pan for solids on the bottom. if there's a lot of bright metal or hard pieces, you may have a bigger problem, but odds are it will mostly be clutch material.
at this point the filter is freely accessable to be replaced. The new gasket goes on WITHOUT SEALANT and make sure to snug the bolts EVENLY; all hand tight at first, and then one turn at a time each until tney are all at about 11-13 in pounds

 

[Blue Goose]

I don't know what year they switched to electronically controling the transmission shifts, but it sounds like when one of the older Ford automatic transmissions modulater valves would act up......They had a vacuum line that ran to them and if that's how your transmission shifts are governed, you may have knocked the line off four wheeling.....just a thought.

 

[mrfixit]

One of the funny things about the E4OD... is that it stands for ELECTRONIC 4 spd OVER DRIVE

just to clear up the goose poop...

 

[mrfixit]

sorry, goose. couldn't resist.

 

[Blue Goose]

Thank's Tom, while I do know what the E stands for, I didn't think he verified that it was an E40D.......BTW, I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express lately!!

 

[mrfixit]

Egads, man... You're RIGHT! I may have bunked the entire debunking process... but wait.... is an AOD different than the E4OD? hmm time to check the sonnax manuel... hehe... yes, I know it's manual....

 

[mrfixit]

Nope. your choices were C-6 or the E4OD according to this.

 

[Brian_B]

If its an E, forget the modulator valve. I was thinking the same thing as goose was until the E was confirmed.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I'm telling you bud, clean out the nuetral safety switch wire harness on both sides, and put some electrical grease on there. My switch is located on the driver side of the bell housing and is a small black plastic square unit.

Ryan

 

[mrfixit]

Yes, ryan is right. start simple and work up. That's what he is doing.

 

[Brian_B]

.....Yes, ryan is right......

I just wanted to point out that this is the first time Tom has ever admitted that Ryan was right about anything.

I am not making a crude comment about the topic.....just making sure it was noticed by others.



Does this modern electronic controlled transmission still have the old fashioned shifting linkage and the kickdown of some sort? If it does...perhaps something got knocked out of whack down there. Can't hurt to look and see if something is bent or missing.

 

[mrfixit]

I have too said Ryan is right before!!!

lemme think, here....





















gimme a sec...

















Oh yeah....
















He's right....






Right off his rocker!