Never worked on an hydraulic clutch before

[Alvin in AZ]

'91 F250 351w ZF
Never worked on an hydraulic clutch before... :/
What sort of connections does it have?
Got any suggestions before I screw something up?

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Got everything loose except for the hydraulic clutch stuff.
My 7/16-14 guide-pins just so happen to work on 351w's too. LOL
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
They are in and ready to go with just two engine bolts...
and two rear trans mount bolts holding it all together.

Soon to looking at a '91 version of these...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg

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I've got a few days to learn about this and until I know what to
do with that hydraulic clutch stuff, I'll work on other stuff.

Alvin in AZ

 

[flareside_thunder]

Interested myself have yet to mess with a hydro clutch.....

 

[Fellro]

You have the fun one... you have to pull the trans to get to the slave cylinder, as it is part of the throwout bearing assembly. They generally aren't too bad assembly wise, but can be a pita to bleed sometimes. The hoses tend to either be threaded like a pipe, or have a roll pin that retains the hose into the cylinder. You will want to bleed it out the best you can before putting the trans back up. You can clear a lot of the air before assembling by just working the slave back and forth to push the air bubbles back to the master. Some also come with bleeder screws. (I'm speaking in general, not fully sure which style you have other than it is the internal slave style.)

 

[Alvin in AZ]

You have the fun one...
...have to pull the trans to get to the slave cylinder...
The hoses tend to either be threaded like a pipe, or
have a roll pin that retains the hose into the cylinder.

Cool.
Thanks for the post.

What's needed to pull the hard line do you suppose?
It -feels- like its rubber mounted and rubber connected.
...or something like that?
Not sure what to do other than yank it loose.

Alvin in AZ
ps- which butthead (inside ZF or Ford) decided to
-not- have a separate bell housing? :/

 

[Fellro]

It may well have the roll pin that locks in the line like my external slaves have. It simply goes in along side the line, and there is a groove that locks it in.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

RTFM you idiot!
...that's me taking to myself. LOL

Don't remember the exact amount but got like $200 in the '91 Ford
Truck Shop Manuals, I suppose I should read the suckers huh? :/

Anyway I learned about a tool that looks a lot like the old window
knob+crank clip retainer removal tool.

T88T-70522-A
http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl465a-lib.htm
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=51457&group_ID=1619
http://www.kd-tools.com/3413.htm

Read where one guy mentioned just using a screwdriver. LOL

Alvin in AZ

 

[blacksnapon]

There is a part of the line sticking out of the bell housing that looks like a little barrel. Around it is a white looking sleeve. That tool fits in there and pushes the fingers away from the line when you force the sleeve back.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

There is a part of the line sticking out of the bell housing that looks like a
little barrel. Around it is a white looking sleeve. That tool fits in there and
pushes the fingers away from the line when you force the sleeve back.

"white part?"

So I cleaned the barrel/coupler with brake cleaner and a tooth brush.

Shoved the white nylon sleeve down inside using a slightly filed-out 5/8"
(to 16mm?) stamped-sheet-metal wrench (you know the ones, they look
like cheap junk but work great for bicycle bearings) and pried up on it
while mashing the nylon sleeve down inside the coupling.

It popped loose and hit me in the face because I had my head in there
between the coupler and the frame.

Alvin in AZ