Need wiring diargram

[Austin]

I need a digram of the rear harness for the tail lights. I'd also like to know what the factory options were for trailer wiring back there.

Also, I'm not sure if the cab and chassis wiring is different from the regular trucks...

 

[Mil1ion]

Look down near Fig 27-28

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...epairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ecd6

 

[Austin]

Thanks, that helped a lot!

Here's the problem I'm having, though. I can turn the headlights on with no problem, but the dash and tails don't turn on. I can push the knob in between the parking light position and the headlight position to make the dash and tails turn on, but the headlights turn off. What's the issue?

Go!

 

[Mil1ion]

cheap parts

 

[Austin]

cheap parts

As in a cheap switch?

 

[Mil1ion]

That and the complexity of the switches.

I read about all sorts of electrical problems on these

Have you done a TSB search on this problem yet ?

 

[Austin]

That and the complexity of the switches.

I read about all sorts of electrical problems on these

Have you done a TSB search on this problem yet ?

Hmm. Haven't done a TSB search yet.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Did this happen after you removed the box and grounds?

 

[Austin]

Did this happen after you removed the box and grounds?

Yep. But the weird thing is that I didn't touch any grounds to the frame or bed - there weren't any. All that was done was unclipped the harness and it came right off.

 

[DNFXDLI]

There were no flexible grounds with clips?....and are all the sockets plastic?

 

[Austin]

There were no flexible grounds with clips?....and are all the sockets plastic?

No grounds and all of the sockets are plastic.

 

[Austin]

The wires all have been spliced or mangled somehow.

 

[DNFXDLI]

The wires all have been spliced or mangled somehow.

Check all the lamps (bulbs) to make sure they are okay...and, if I were doing it..I would redo the splices by means of soldering (with rosin core solder, not acid) and use adhesive lined heat shrink..either 2:1 or 3:1. The adhesive will provide an environmental seal...you might want to check PartsExpress for the shrink and soldering iron if you don't have one. I prefer a 30-45 watt variable pencil type, I find the large 100W+ guns get too hot and wind up melting the wire insulation.

 

[Austin]

I will look into that. All of the splices are past the plug for the harness, so would it be worth buying a new one?

 

[DNFXDLI]

I will look into that. All of the splices are past the plug for the harness, so would it be worth buying a new one?

If you could find an NOS (or good used one) harness then it would be much easier...I know that if I could find one, I would go that route instead of repairing it. I guess it comes down to your time and your level of comfort doing the splices.

 

[Austin]

If you could find an NOS (or good used one) harness then it would be much easier...I know that if I could find one, I would go that route instead of repairing it. I guess it comes down to your time and your level of comfort doing the splices.

I'd rather pull one for the ease of it. I'm comfortable with doing the splicing, I just don't know that I'm willing to get the heat shrink, gun, etc. I will make a trip out to the jy sometime this week.