My first old ford truck, and the first issues needing attention.

[Girl In Big Truck]

1974 Ford F350 Custom, 5.9L V8 360, manual 4 speed trans,

I just got the truck a few weeks ago from this post. My initial work I did was replace the water pump, belts, radiator hoses, vacuum hoses, fuel filter, air filter, battery cable, pcv valve, distributor cap, plugs, and wires. Tightened a few loose bolts and some carburetor adjustments. So mostly some basics.

All was running fairly smooth up until now. So far I have narrowed down the current problem to a carburetor (or choke issue) (motorcraft 2150 2 barrel I think, may be 2100). Just a couple of days ago, it started running really badly after driving, once hot. Gets louder (though some of noise is the exhaust system which needs complete replacement, more on that below) and a higher pitch, and has even starting raising rpm's way too high once I get home. By the time I get home it sounds so bad that I think the whole engine is going to die. Then in the morning when cold, all good again. This was fairly sudden too, was just fine before.

So I did more adjustments on carb and cleaned it up some more, a little better, but still not much. I did notice that the choke thermostat has to be turned way far from the factory notch for it to be anywhere near OK (making me think choke problems). I don't think the carb has ever been rebuilt so probably about time, but also thought about getting a holly or re-manufactured carb instead. But before I go do any of those just wondered what anyone thought about everything just mentioned, or if it could be something else instead or in addition to (though sounds like carb issues).

The other problem I am having, is with rusty stuck bolts. Tried to replace the exhaust manifolds myself, almost got one off except for on bolt stuck on exhaust pipe, and the other one had three stuck bolts. I may also have this issue when I get around to changing the front brake pads and hoses which I have the parts for. Already used lots of WD40, so wondering what's a good way to get stuck rusty bolts loose before I take the truck somewhere.

There is other small issues that are not pressing but need to get to it eventually (parking brake, small oil leak, and other stuff).

Thanks, and sorry if too much info there.

 

[m78]

Try reading through some of Tylor's threads. He had similar issues.
http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1078031
Good luck.

 

[BKW]

If it's the original carb, it's a Motorcraft 2100 series. 2150 series introduced in 1975.

There is ONE carb kit for the 2100 series carb, it's the same 1962/74: D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-B) .. 2100 Series Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499-B)

There are at least SIX different carb kits for the 1975/79 2150 carb.

 

[john112deere]

The other problem I am having, is with rusty stuck bolts. Tried to replace the exhaust manifolds myself, almost got one off except for on bolt stuck on exhaust pipe, and the other one had three stuck bolts. I may also have this issue when I get around to changing the front brake pads and hoses which I have the parts for. Already used lots of WD40, so wondering what's a good way to get stuck rusty bolts loose before I take the truck somewhere..

WD-40 isn't really a great lubricant, or penetrant. There's a number of better choices- I've been using PB Blaster with some success for a number of years, but there are other options. Kroil is another brand-name that comes to mind. But you'll do better with a true penetrant.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Acetone and ATF work well...there are many concoctions of the mix....try 50/50 to start.

 

[cbaker65]

The carb being as old as it is,it could be sucking in air at the linkage
butterfly shaft,maybe too sloppy,or try the base gasket between the
carb,an manifold.Those are major spots where air leak can be at which
can cause un-even engine running....

I had a sloppy carb.,an went with a reman.,the instuction sheet for
the carb also said a leaky intake manifold gasket can cause an un-even
idle...

 

[Fellro]

My 75 had developed a hole in the hose to the brake booster. It was hidden well enough I didn't spot it very easily. I actually discovered it by accident. BTW, the air cleaner lid sails right under the hood like a frisbee quite well, and the windshield doesn't do so well at deflecting it... temper got the better of me on that one.

Friend had troubles with their 84, turned out the pcv valve had actually disintegrated and the guts were in the valve cover somewhere... old plastic PCV valve.

 

[Mil1ion]

1974 Ford F350 Custom, 5.9L V8 360, manual 4 speed trans,

I just got the truck a few weeks ago from this post. My initial work I did was replace the water pump, belts, radiator hoses, vacuum hoses, fuel filter, air filter, battery cable, pcv valve, distributor cap, plugs, and wires. Tightened a few loose bolts and some carburetor adjustments. So mostly some basics.

All was running fairly smooth up until now. So far I have narrowed down the current problem to a carburetor (or choke issue) (motorcraft 2150 2 barrel I think, may be 2100). Just a couple of days ago, it started running really badly after driving, once hot. Gets louder (though some of noise is the exhaust system which needs complete replacement, more on that below) and a higher pitch, and has even starting raising rpm's way too high once I get home. By the time I get home it sounds so bad that I think the whole engine is going to die. Then in the morning when cold, all good again. This was fairly sudden too, was just fine before.

So I did more adjustments on carb and cleaned it up some more, a little better, but still not much. I did notice that the choke thermostat has to be turned way far from the factory notch for it to be anywhere near OK (making me think choke problems). I don't think the carb has ever been rebuilt so probably about time, but also thought about getting a holly or re-manufactured carb instead. But before I go do any of those just wondered what anyone thought about everything just mentioned, or if it could be something else instead or in addition to (though sounds like carb issues).

The other problem I am having, is with rusty stuck bolts. Tried to replace the exhaust manifolds myself, almost got one off except for on bolt stuck on exhaust pipe, and the other one had three stuck bolts. I may also have this issue when I get around to changing the front brake pads and hoses which I have the parts for. Already used lots of WD40, so wondering what's a good way to get stuck rusty bolts loose before I take the truck somewhere.

There is other small issues that are not pressing but need to get to it eventually (parking brake, small oil leak, and other stuff).

Thanks, and sorry if too much info there.

Hi.
The choke housing contains s spring coil that the end is supposed to fit into the groove of the lever on the choke actuation device.
You may want to verify that it is.

Someone tried to mention throttle rod bushings being worn out. You can test them by using an unlit propane torch pointing at each side of the throttle rod. If they're leaking the engine will speed up a little from the increased fuel.
I'm hoping you know what throttle rod bushings are?.
Your engine running speed is strange because you say it increases speed not decreases.
Carb'd engines don't have anything to make them surge except the accelerator pedal.
So what's making this engine speed up?

The only thing WD-40 (Water Displacement 40 th formula) is good for is displacing water.
It's not a penetrating fluid.
Even Amways Wonder Mist Is better that wd-40.

Tell me more about this engine speed increase on its own?

 

[Girl In Big Truck]

Thanks for replies thus far. First and main issue getting worse, barely made it home tonight. Even having trouble getting up hills. So weird, just a few days ago was fine.

- all good on cold start, until barely 3 minutes down the road, then
- loosing horsepower
- engine loud, and high pitch (makes exhaust leak sound like nothing)
- happens as engine gets hot
- rpm's raise
- eats way more gas after it starts
- carb adjustments while hot do little to nothing if not make it worse
- click or thump in left side valve cover gone or barely noticeable (forgot what that is ???? but i kind of liked it, where did it go?)


Got to figure this one out first, going to go for the carb kit, and clean it out real good...

Thanks for other info, never heard of mixing acetone and atf, sounds scary, so it must work then. And will have to check for other leaks as well without playing frisbee with air cleaner.

 

[Girl In Big Truck]

Someone tried to mention throttle rod bushings being worn out. You can test them by using an unlit propane torch pointing at each side of the throttle rod. If they're leaking the engine will speed up a little from the increased fuel.
I'm hoping you know what throttle rod bushings are?.
Your engine running speed is strange because you say it increases speed not decreases.
Carb'd engines don't have anything to make them surge except the accelerator pedal.
So what's making this engine speed up?

Tell me more about this engine speed increase on its own?

I will know soon enough about parts and things I don't have names for yet, once I get the carb out if that happens. But I would assume the throttle rod bushings are to keep it snug. I have noticed most parts on that side of the carb seen very loose and too easy to move.

Strange, very. Makes no since even if I am a newby to fords. Engine speed is just super loud and racy after a few minutes of driving (calm in morning), which made me think throttle was abnormally kicking in. But this is just when hot, or at least was. Seems like after today this is getting worse and may be a cold start issue as well (will see what happens tomorrow morning), which makes me think something has failed or is failing, within the last few days.

The carb looks all original, so probably has never been rebuilt, so bushings seals and all could be wearing down or all ready down.

 

[Girl In Big Truck]

As an update, idle is fine this morning. I think the loud sound when driving after hot is coming from a rattle I hear that is new. This is making me wonder if it is something else besides the carb. So idle was smooth, but when I stepped on gas it seemed uneven, not for sure if really misfiring, more like a fuel issue still. Idling smooth, give it gas, no good. Fuel pump? But it's getting fuel. And the rattle, I can't tell where it is coming from. Perhaps it is not the carburetor.

Correction on one thing: Burning up and or leaking oil fast..... going to go add some, then see what changes on the way to parts store. I read one post somewhere that said if oil smelled like, could be fuel pump, couldn't tell if smelled like gas, but perhaps did (all smells like petroleum to me)...

 

[cbaker65]

As an update, idle is fine this morning. I think the loud sound when driving after hot is coming from a rattle I hear that is new. This is making me wonder if it is something else besides the carb. So idle was smooth, but when I stepped on gas it seemed uneven, not for sure if really misfiring, more like a fuel issue still. Idling smooth, give it gas, no good. Fuel pump? But it's getting fuel. And the rattle, I can't tell where it is coming from. Perhaps it is not the carburetor.

Correction on one thing: Burning up and or leaking oil fast..... going to go add some, then see what changes on the way to parts store. I read one post somewhere that said if oil smelled like, could be fuel pump, couldn't tell if smelled like gas, but perhaps did (all smells like petroleum to me)...

Did you take some of the spark plugs out an see what they look like?

The spark plugs will give you some kinda of clue of what can be happening
with the engine.
If the truck has been sitting along time,then the fuel could be bad,also
it could have trash in the fuel tank.
I would go through an check all minor stuff first.
Plug wires,make sure they arent arching,can check that at night.You should
be able to see them arch.
Inspect the distributor cap,make sure its clean an there is no cracks,clean
contacts an rotor.
You can also pull each plug wire at a time while engine is running,an
if they make no difference in performance,then something is bad.
either no spark or dead cylinder.

 

[cbaker65]

Could be a collapse lifter,or valve guide seals dried up.

 

[Girl In Big Truck]

1st Verdict: Need to keep my eye on the oil level since a small leak (while running) and possibly burning up. Once oil was back to normal level, sounds way better, was just about empty even though I checked it a few days before this all started. Just never had a vehicle sound and respond that bad when oil gets really low. I heard these ford truck get leak from oil pan or rear engine seal. It is coming from back of engine, but when stopped, just a small amount on ground in morning, so leaking while driving.

2nd Verdict: not really for sure if there is one, but is still running not as good as it was. There is so much to do on the vehicle, don't know where to start. I would really like the exhaust fixed so I can hear everything else. When you can't hear the other sounds the vehicle makes, makes giving other descriptions difficult.

Did you take some of the spark plugs out an see what they look like?

The spark plugs will give you some kinda of clue of what can be happening
with the engine.
If the truck has been sitting along time,then the fuel could be bad,also
it could have trash in the fuel tank.
I would go through an check all minor stuff first.
Plug wires,make sure they arent arching,can check that at night.You should
be able to see them arch.
Inspect the distributor cap,make sure its clean an there is no cracks,clean
contacts an rotor.
You can also pull each plug wire at a time while engine is running,an
if they make no difference in performance,then something is bad.
either no spark or dead cylinder.

I will do that on pulling each wire, but scares me if there is really something wrong (please no serious engine work yet, please no serious engine work yet...). They are all new wires, plugs, and distributor cap. Put those in after I got it. And gas has run down a few times and and filled it half way several times, and changed the fuel filter (which looked pretty good when I took out the old one). The previous owner drove it once or twice a week for work, now I am driving the hell out of it. Putting this truck to the test. I do think the timing needs to be properly adjusted as well, and I need to read up on that some more before I do it.

So that's where I am at now, back where I was. Which is at least better than the last last three days. Till the next thread or issue.

 

[Mil1ion]

Perhaps this will help?

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/index.shtml

Normally hesitation is a accelerator pump rod adjustment.
Sometimes after work they don't get put in the correct hole.

 

[Girl In Big Truck]

Perhaps this will help?

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/index.shtml

Normally hesitation is a accelerator pump rod adjustment.
Sometimes after work they don't get put in the correct hole.

Thanks! Will make use of it. I adjusted the distributor this morning, already a big difference (it was off good bit). Just have to keep discovering new things and practice all this fine tuning with the carburetor and timing adjustments, and keep an eye out on the oil leak and oil level in the meantime.