misfire/skip help

[flareside_thunder]

Your voltage on the computer side is way high......it should sit right at .98V KOEO.......loosen the two philip's head screws holding it on and turn the TPS slowly whichever direction to get it to where it needs to be.....if you can't a new TPS is needed.

 

[89frankenford]

ok so i tried what you said, but there are no "adjustments" for the tps. i moved the throttle back and forth just because, then put the sensor back on. i didnt test it though. BUT what i did do was pull the solid metal linkage going from the gas pedal lever throttle to the cruise control throttle (about 4 inches long) and bent it a bit. i also screwed in the idle screw on the throttle to lower the idle a bit......im not sure if it is everything i have done so far, and then the little things i did today, BUT DAMN my truck is ALMOST BACK! ive got power again!!! like whoa power i havent seen in a while!...check engine is still on and it does still have its problems but its getting better and better everytime i work on it which is REAL good. im going to retest the TPS and see what i get out of curiosity.

 

[flareside_thunder]

you didn't have to remove the sensor just loosen it and move it if possible....check your TPS voltage again for chits n giggles n see if it moved it at all.

 

[Old_Paint]

CEL may be coming on now because of undervoltage on the TPS if you backed off the idle screw. If it falls below about .9V, it'll set the CEL output because it thinks the TPS has a broken wire or is missing VCC (+5.00 V). If you're gonna back down that idle screw, you may have to take a small ignition file and slot the holes in the TPS slightly to rotate it with the shaft of the throttle body butterfly. If it's idling fast, more often than not, that's a vacuum leak somewhere. Could be EGR valve not seating, or a worn seal on the valve shaft, could be a cracked vacuum line, leaky brake booster, on and on the list goes for vacuum leaks. I find 'em by disconnecting everything except the MAP and FPR, and check vacuum and idle speed with that. Then, hook 'em back up one by one until my fast idle comes back. Then, there's usually more trouble shooting to find out exactly what is leaking. It could even be a worn spool in the IAC. That is a steel spool in an aluminum housing. They DO wear.