manual trans fluid

[john112deere]

Had a rebuilt 5-speed transmission installed in my Ranger about 25k miles ago (long, miserable experience... ) and I would assume the shop refilled it with generic ATF. I know it's ATF, which is what it's supposed to be.

I'm really not satisified with the way the truck shifts now that it's getting cold. It's a crappy rebuilt of a crappy transmission, so it never has and never will shift right, but I'm thinking of replacing the fluid that's in there with something higher-grade- recommendations or thoughts on whether this might get the synchros to work a little smoother?

Also- anyone know what the easiest way to fill this thing up is?

 

[Fellro]

Might try something like Lucas oil treatments, I would probably go with the ATF treatment, that stuff can be pretty thick. Easiest way I know to get the fluid in is through the shifter hole, take the shifter out and pour it through there, have the fill plug out so you can watch for it there.

 

[Blue Goose]

I read on another site where a guy was complaining how difficult his ZF 5 was shifting. He drained it and put synthetic ATF in and was amazed at how well it shifted...

 

[john112deere]

I would probably go with the ATF treatment, that stuff can be pretty thick.

Do I want thick? I was kind of figuring that since it's worse when it's cold outside, I'd want to go with a thinner fluid. I've never been inside a synchromesh transmission, though, so I don't fully understand how they work and what effect the viscosity of the lubricant would have on it.

OK, I was kind of figuring taking the shifter off would be the easiest way to refill it. Just fill it 'till it runs out the fill plug, right?

Thanks!

 

[F150]

You can get a hand pump for a gallon jug (empty windshield wash jug is what I use) at Auto parts store for like $8.00. Just pump it in the fill plug. And you will be amazed at what a fresh fill of Mercon will do for the tranny.....

 

[john112deere]

Stuff thats in there is only 25k miles old. Closing in on time for a change, but I don't think it's had time to where it's going to be causing problems yet.

How easily can you clean that hand pump? Seems like it'd be a real nice thing for refilling the rear axle, too, but I wouldn't want to use it once and then discover I could never get it clean of what I'd used it for.

 

[Fellro]

I was referring to the manual trans and engine oil stuff, as to why I advised the auto treatment, but didn't quite say it that way.... sorry about the confusion

 

[F150]

You can pump it out to just a film of the fluid, then pump some kerosene through and let it dry. There's a long line on the fill end, so it will work on most applications.

 

[captchas]

my mustang was the same way with it's t5od tremic trans. with mine i went to g-force tranmissions in pa. the builders of the prostock tranies and got a soild machined high strengh alloy cluster gear rear bearing support plate. it replaced the p.o.s. stamped steel on tremic uses. added .003 of preload to the cluster's rear bearing. for fluid used royal purple syncromax fuild .it's almost a 10w oil instead of atf. and fully allows the fiber rings to work as designed .

ge ford ! no more gear noises in 3rd and 4th gears at 45 to 60 mph.

the sycromax is also great for any manual trans useing aft as it's fuild something you might want to try. yes i live in a very cold area and have no cold shifting problems

 

[Brian_B]

Hmm...my standard transmission calls for 90 WT gear lube. Times change!

 

[john112deere]

Heck, Brian, 90 WT is nothing.

My friend has a Model A that takes 600 WT oil in the three-speed, non-synchro manual.

When you start it on a cold day, you have to let the clutch in slowly or else the transmission will stall out the engine even in neutral (and forget trying to turn it over without disengaging the clutch- not going to happen with 6 volts).

 

[d-kuzmen]

Do I want thick? I was kind of figuring that since it's worse when it's cold outside, I'd want to go with a thinner fluid. I've never been inside a synchromesh transmission, though, so I don't fully understand how they work and what effect the viscosity of the lubricant would have on it.

OK, I was kind of figuring taking the shifter off would be the easiest way to refill it. Just fill it 'till it runs out the fill plug, right?

Thanks!

If I remeber correctly you won't be able to fill through the shifter. It's not like a t-5 in a mustang easiest way is to fill with a pump of some sort through the fill plug. As for shifting, mabe the clutch or pilot bearing is to blame as it gets colder. Does it ever get better when the truck warms up?

 

[john112deere]

The more I look at it, the more I think I'm just gonna use a funnel with a piece of tubing stuck to the bottom and then hold the funnel next to the door and run the tubing under. Two-man job, but if I've got a buddy around it might be the easiest.

Clutch, etc. were all new (I think/hope/paid for) 25k miles ago. It does get some better when it warms up, though I wish it shifted just a little bit better even when it's at it's best.

Frankly, I don't have the patience or desire to fix it if it's not just a fluid change (which is nearly due anyway). The transmission and clutch in this truck are complete junk, IMO. I haven't failed to get it into any gears since I had the tranny replaced, and I'd rather keep double-clutching than drop the tranny.

I'd like to try the RP Synchromax, or else the Redline stuff, but I can't find either. Autozone claims to sell both, but they don't seem to stock it locally. I might go with the Mobil1 Synthetic ATF, it's cheaper and I've generally been happy with their motor oil.

 

[john112deere]

I couldn't find what I wanted anywhere locally.

Changed it for Castrol Dex/Merc, figured it might be a bit better and it was only $8 for the three quarts I needed.

Now it shifts worse. Tried to downshift to third at fairly low speed yesterday and unless I double-clutch it, it grinds. Second is better, but not much.

This transmission's always been been rough enough that I double clutch because it feels better, but now it's almost to the point where I can't drive it without double-clutching.

Guess I'll have to order some fancy stuff online, since I can't find it locally.

 

[d-kuzmen]

I couldn't find what I wanted anywhere locally.

Changed it for Castrol Dex/Merc, figured it might be a bit better and it was only $8 for the three quarts I needed.

Now it shifts worse. Tried to downshift to third at fairly low speed yesterday and unless I double-clutch it, it grinds. Second is better, but not much.

This transmission's always been been rough enough that I double clutch because it feels better, but now it's almost to the point where I can't drive it without double-clutching.

Guess I'll have to order some fancy stuff online, since I can't find it locally.

If you have to double clutch it, i'd be looking more towards the clutch/slave cylinder, Just to be sure. I could see if you put some super thick gear oil in it you might have issues, but not putting trans fluid in it. Rangers are known for leaky slave cylinders, also if someone put a clutch in it the pressure plate may not have been adjusted before assembly. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Fellro]

What adjustment would have been made? I haven't heard of doing that before, so could you tell me more on that?

 

[john112deere]

I don't understand why a clutch problem would cause it to act like a bad synchro? Or why the symptoms would be the same but more pronounced after a fluid change, if it isn't a fluid problem.

I can shift to first at a stop, sit at a stoplight in gear with my foot off the brake and it won't creep forward, and shift between first and reverse as easily as any Ranger I've driven.

Only time it really shifts bad, is when I'm downshifting. (Upshifts demand I time it right, just like always, but it works OK.) If I double clutch it (shift to neutral, engage clutch, rev engine appropriately, disengage clutch, shift to gear) it goes fine.

If this stupid piece of garbage transmission comes out of this truck, I am not wasting my time putting it or one like it back in. I'll have to get a T-5 and bellhousing for a 2.3, and fab up a mechanical clutch. Don't have the time or money for that right now.

 

[Fellro]

If the internals don't stop turning, it can be hard to get it to shift, so that would be why the clutch can be part of the problem. My 86 with a T-19 was like that when I first got it, and it turned out to be the firewall was cracked, so the clutch never fully disengaged, causing it to be hard to shift. The second gear synchros are permanently damaged as a result. After I fixed that, it shifts much better, but when cold, second is still hard. Once warmed and lubed from running a bit, it shifts fine.

 

[d-kuzmen]

What adjustment would have been made? I haven't heard of doing that before, so could you tell me more on that?

The pressure plate on rangers are self adjusting for wear of the disc. Hard to explain, What needs to be done when you get a new pressure plate or install a new clutch disc, is we usually will put the plate in the shop press, press the fingers fully then you need to rotate the spring loaded self adjusting mechanism. If it's not adjusted before installing it you'll get shift/feel issues. Hard to explain it without showing it to you.

 

[racsan]

personally i run pennzoil syncromesh fluid in mine. i have a hurst shifter and where the chrome lever comes out of the boot there is a very noticeable drop in operating temperature when using the sycromesh fluid. i too have a downshifting issue, goes up through the gears fine, but downshifting from 5th-4rth or 3rd to 2nd i have to tap the throttle to rev the motor just a bit while the clutch is pushed in between the gears being downshifted. been that way awhile. ive had the syncromesh fluid in the trans for over a year now, have had no issue with it. got it at autozone, think it was 5-7 bucks/qt.