Idea for spinning ball joint stud?

[joekayakguy]

Removed and replaced upper and lower BJs on Passenger side. 1989 F150 4X5, 4.9 233K. Used Moog 2 times in the past and no problems. Good stuff. This time I tried Auto Zone brand since I rented/bought the spanner wrench from them. Had NTB press joints in, not too impressed. Re installed knuckle and lower joint stud spins but won't tighten Tried cleaning lower stud and arm hole with alcohol along with a jack under the knuckle. Got it down resonably far, but it still is not tight and has play. I was thinking about putting some thin metal in there to tighten the stud. Bad idea? Disimillar metals corrosion, alignment issues, failure of metal filler? The other thought was to put three or 4 evenly spaced dimples or longitudinal lines on the stud with a punch or cold chissle. The slightly displaced metal should be enough to "bite"? Good idea or Felony stupid?

Oh yeah... I no longer have a dust cover, I now have a rusted "dust" ring hiding under the spindle/knuckle joint. Ideas? Also the dealer no longer carries the 14mm bolts holding the spindle to the knuckle. Seals from the dealer?? LOL The bolts I have are still useable, but I like to replace parts just in case I may need to revisit this in the future.

The sector seal is next. Pittman arm is already off. Doesn't look like fun

Thanks for your thoughts, Joe
I LOVE my mostly blue extened cab 8ft bed.

 

[Fellro]

How about putting a washer under the nut to pull it through, then loosen it to take the washer out? I am surprised it is still spinning with the jack under it, that usually solves the issue for me when it happens. You could try the nicking, but not sure it will help/be good on the joint.

 

[73F100Shortbed]

The jack usually helps. Like Roger said you could try the dimples. Saw it done on a pressed bearing once with no ill effects afterward. Should be ok on a ball joint.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

There's a thread about a "ball joint won't tighten" over
on FSB and it turned out he was given the wrong part.

Alvin in AZ

 

[joekayakguy]

I checked the recipt

Thanks guys,

I'll try the washer. I tried the Castle nut too. It seemed to draw the stud up farther. The lower profile nut for the bottom joint has some thread pattern that acts as a lock nut and prevents it from going on all the way, but of course it also prevents it from coming off. The wrong part idea crossed my mind too. I checked the recipt and verified the stock numbers to the joints on line. When NTB pressed in the joints, they did not return the boxes. So I can't verify the joints in the knuckle are the same as the stock numbers on the recipt. There is the remote chance the stock was pulled from the shelf incorrectly? I hope to try again Friday evening?

There is also a remote chance that the old joint was not bad, and who knows the hole got enlarged by a loose stud and that might have been what was causing the play at the joint??? OK... I just made that one up, but I am reaching and grasping at straws.

A thread on "FSB". Sorry, I don't know FSB?

Thanks again, Joe

 

[Alvin in AZ]

The wrong part idea crossed my mind too. I checked the recipt and verified
the stock numbers to the joints on line. When NTB pressed in the joints,
they did not return the boxes. So I can't verify the joints in the knuckle are
the same as the stock numbers on the recipt. There is the remote chance
the stock was pulled from the shelf incorrectly?
FSB?
Joe

Hi Joe, thanks for using your name.

FSB = http://www.fullsizebronco.com/

Yeah sorry about that, Ben pulled the same crap on me, but did me a big
favor in the process. LOL That's the number-1 website forum I hang out
on now, but when I've got some new (usually weird) thing I've done and/or
figured-out, I post it here.

-------------------------

I just discovered that the package sez "gloss black" but the Redfield Junior
base that came in it ain't gloss. :/ Got it from Brownell's and don't know
what happened, Redfield screwed up? It was returned to Brownell's with a
the part swapped on purpose ...or by accident? Don't know, but stuff like
that happens all the time with ordinary products let alone Ford parts! LOL

As far as the hole being wallered-out use a mirror (if needs be) and check
it out. If it's just one side acting like that it could be the trouble. I like to
use a disc from a computer hard drive for a mirror. Almost all of them are
aluminum. (only ran into two so far that were glass)

Later -if- something were to go wrong with your steering you'd be wishing
you had been more thorough. Head that off at the pass and go over this
problem like you mean business. Just pretend you ain't got nothing else to
do that's more important?

Alvin in AZ
ps- Joe, fill out your stuff, where you at? --------------------------------------------------------------------------^

 

[Fellro]

Every so often, the parts also get mispackaged at the factory. It is hard to tell without one to compare to.

 

[joekayakguy]

Potential bigger problem.

The bottom joint still spins. Hey it spins even easier than before LOL! Near as I can tell the lower is no where near being seated when the upper joint is fully tightened. This seems to be a sign of a couple potential problems.(A) the upper ball joint is too long. (B) the lower joint is too short. (C) the lower hole in the RH axle Arm Assembly has been augered out due to the previous joint not being tight? It is conceivable that a loose bolt, and not the actual joint that had play that started this whole project. I am inclined to think because the threads on the lower stud are not up as high as they should be, the upper joint is longer than it should be? If it is the axle arm, I don't know if the truck is worth tearing off the axle arm assembly?

I'll measure it more carefully on Saturday. I'm toast tonight.

Joe

 

[joekayakguy]

DONE! THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT AND IDEAS!
The upper joint was incorrect. I like to replace joints in pairs. the lower joint was shot. The upper was fine. I pressed out the joints and put the old upper and new lower back in. It worked fine the new upper was thick enough by a heathy margin to not allow the tapered fit to get any friction.

Joe