Help tranny C-6 water in tranny?

[Evan's f250]

I took a look at my dipstick and it seems to be pinkish/strawberry in color. I have change the fluid since I've had the truck, but i havent really drove the truck since I bought it because ive been restoring it. I've prob drove it 25 or 30 miles(to take to get painted,etc. but now my fluid with prob only 30 miles on it looks milky and pink..how is this possible to happen. Its a 78 F250 with a C-6. Anyone ever have this?

 

[bucks77ford]

It's possible that over time the tranny had built up some condensation inside the pan. Before you do too much driving, I'd change the fluid. I don't think you'll have any problems, but just to be on the safe side.

 

[Evan's f250]

It's possible that over time the tranny had built up some condensation inside the pan. Before you do too much driving, I'd change the fluid. I don't think you'll have any problems, but just to be on the safe side.

So it could have built up condensation when I changed it say 3 months ago or so, but just drove 30 miles? or could it had condensation inside transmission itself before i changed it?, that makes sense with it being much colder out now and just nw showing up. So just drain fluid and add new and be done?

 

[John in AZ]

Probably just the condensation but keep tabs on the water in the radiator. Possible to have a pin hole in the tranny cooler in the rad & is comming from there.
John

 

[Fellro]

Look for little green droplets when you drain the oil.... been caught on such before. The coolant level in the rad doesn't really change much, but it doesn't take much to cause a trans failure.

 

[Evan's f250]

Well since my trans cooler isnt connected to the radiator(its a aux cooler in front of the radiator behind the grille) Im thinking maybe it had been underwater once and had a lil water in torque converter b4 i changed the fluid, so I'll prob drop the pan and put new fluid and filter in it again and disconnect the line to cooler and let fluid come out till it looks red and fresh..good idea I'd say? man i hate changing fluid on these trucks, those 2 or 3 bolts in the back are a pain to mess with.

 

[Mil1ion]

The oil cooler is suppose to work in conjunction with the lower rad tank.

fluid goes out from the lower tank to a line of the cooler, then the OUT of the cooler back to the Trans

 

[Evan's f250]

The oil cooler is suppose to work in conjunction with the lower rad tank.

fluid goes out from the lower tank to a line of the cooler, then the OUT of the cooler back to the Trans

Oh ok, mine isnt for some reason, I'm kinda sceptical to hook it up to the radiator bc I'm sure they unhooked it and just used the aux cooler for a reason. My question is after i drain all the fluid out and add new, is the aux cooler gonna be enough to cool the tranny or is it a must to have both?

 

[Fellro]

The in radiator cooler does actually two things: helps cool the trans when hot, but also helps warm up the trans to get it to operating temp sooner. However, Chrysler also had arrangements that never used the radiator at all, so that is the question...

 

[m78]

Are the A/T inlet and outlets capped on the radiator ? If they are that would suggest to me that it leaked coolent into the transmission.

 

[Fellro]

 

[Evan's f250]

Are the A/T inlet and outlets capped on the radiator ? If they are that would suggest to me that it leaked coolent into the transmission.

yes, they are capped off, so i guess it had got water in the trans from that before so they rigged it like that. so i guess all the water didnt get out when i changed the fluid, but i didnt notice any water in fluid when i drained it, so i'll check the transmission vent tube also. I'll also take the capps off the radiator tonite to see if water comes out.

 

[bucks77ford]

yes, they are capped off, so i guess it had got water in the trans from that before so they rigged it like that. so i guess all the water didnt get out when i changed the fluid, but i didnt notice any water in fluid when i drained it, so i'll check the transmission vent tube also. I'll also take the capps off the radiator tonite to see if water comes out.

Did you also drain the torque converter when you drained the fluid last time? Might sound like a dumb question, but in many times it's forgotten about.

 

[Blue_Mule55]

In the event that the original poster of this thread reads this ,It was my expirence that with the lower tank on the radiator was NOT brazed or welded as they were in the days long since gone. I found , that now a days...some places that do the remans for these sinly use a hi temp silicone. which in turn , with high heat will cause that silicone to fail and ultimatly blow coolant right on through to the trans. to cure this little issue, ( after having gone through TWO of these re-man'ed rad's) I went the extra cost and the EXTRA mile and had one custom built for it.....a 4 core super cooler AND I avoided the trans cooler on it and went with a DUAL trans cooler external out in front. the rubber blocks were formed using the mud flap portion of a semi tractor trailer mud flap and held in place with the stock trans cooler zip tie arrangement. On a long steady pull with well over 16 K in weight the C-6 WITH a slightly blown over 460 ( with a trans temp gauge on the dash) Never...EVER got any where above 220 degrees. I'll merely point out that this C-6 was custom built and it also has the heavy duty converter in it. With the heavy duty tow package tossed in for good measure. I avoid anything stock on the re man rads these days and have informed my customers of the same dilemma that may face them as well. IF, your trans did have water in it from a previous owner?....take it to the reputable outfit and have them go through it.